This is a rewrite of my original posting.
I now realise that I should have taken pics at every stage, sorry guys!
In my case the L/H sill lip was rusty but intact, on the R/H side it was partially rusted off. The faces of the sills were in good condition and I didn't want to damage the good paintwork, so I decided to carry out a fibreglass repair of the lip.
I ground off all the rust off the corroded areas with a 60 grit disc and used a Dremel type tool to get into the back of the lip. After that I treated the bare metal with Hammerite Kurust.
I bought the small Isopon 250ml Glass Fibre kit. The fibreglass matting supplied with the Isopon kit was too coarse for this job so I bought the very fine Isopon tissue matting. Once the sill was prepared I cut 4 small strips of the fine matting of the correct width but long enough to stick up proud of the lip when applied. I folded these to get them easily into the return of the lip. I used 4 layers of matting, each layer being soaked in the resin until the matting goes transparent. A warning on the can of resin said it wouldn’t stick to polythene. So I cut to shape two strips of polythene from an old Tupperware box and long enough to be supported by the good remaining metal of the lip. I gently clamped these onto each side of the repair making a fibreglass sandwich and used a “C” shaped battery charger clip to clamp it.
After allowing it to go off overnight I removed the clip and the result was a perfect lip blended into the metal and needing no extra filling. I then very gently cut the fibreglass down to the shape of the lip with a fine toothed hacksaw blade.
It would have been more useful if I'd taken some "before " pics.
I then primed it with a few coats of Toolstation’s grey primer, I like Toolstation’s range of aerosol paints, they come from Aerosol Solutions, an industrial paint supplier, look them up online.
In my case the worst of the rust was on the Stonechip painted areas so after priming I resprayed the Stonechip preserving the good paint above it. First mask the paint to the old stone chip line, rub the old Stonechip down paying especial attention to the line at the top of the Stonechip. Apply the new Stonechip and after it’s dry remove the masking. Now remask a couple of milimetres higher up, this will hide the new Stonechip edge when you apply the colour. This does though expose a couple of mm of paint which will need to be rubbed down to ensure a good key on this edge. I used a fibreglass scratch pen such as Ebay 111741724919, then applied a few coats of base coat and then the clearcoat.
The finish on the lip is due to me having Stonechipped it. This may not have been a good idea as it takes some time to fully harden so is easily damaged and doesn't look as good.
Any questions just ask!
Chris
I now realise that I should have taken pics at every stage, sorry guys!
In my case the L/H sill lip was rusty but intact, on the R/H side it was partially rusted off. The faces of the sills were in good condition and I didn't want to damage the good paintwork, so I decided to carry out a fibreglass repair of the lip.
I ground off all the rust off the corroded areas with a 60 grit disc and used a Dremel type tool to get into the back of the lip. After that I treated the bare metal with Hammerite Kurust.
I bought the small Isopon 250ml Glass Fibre kit. The fibreglass matting supplied with the Isopon kit was too coarse for this job so I bought the very fine Isopon tissue matting. Once the sill was prepared I cut 4 small strips of the fine matting of the correct width but long enough to stick up proud of the lip when applied. I folded these to get them easily into the return of the lip. I used 4 layers of matting, each layer being soaked in the resin until the matting goes transparent. A warning on the can of resin said it wouldn’t stick to polythene. So I cut to shape two strips of polythene from an old Tupperware box and long enough to be supported by the good remaining metal of the lip. I gently clamped these onto each side of the repair making a fibreglass sandwich and used a “C” shaped battery charger clip to clamp it.
After allowing it to go off overnight I removed the clip and the result was a perfect lip blended into the metal and needing no extra filling. I then very gently cut the fibreglass down to the shape of the lip with a fine toothed hacksaw blade.
It would have been more useful if I'd taken some "before " pics.
I then primed it with a few coats of Toolstation’s grey primer, I like Toolstation’s range of aerosol paints, they come from Aerosol Solutions, an industrial paint supplier, look them up online.
In my case the worst of the rust was on the Stonechip painted areas so after priming I resprayed the Stonechip preserving the good paint above it. First mask the paint to the old stone chip line, rub the old Stonechip down paying especial attention to the line at the top of the Stonechip. Apply the new Stonechip and after it’s dry remove the masking. Now remask a couple of milimetres higher up, this will hide the new Stonechip edge when you apply the colour. This does though expose a couple of mm of paint which will need to be rubbed down to ensure a good key on this edge. I used a fibreglass scratch pen such as Ebay 111741724919, then applied a few coats of base coat and then the clearcoat.
The finish on the lip is due to me having Stonechipped it. This may not have been a good idea as it takes some time to fully harden so is easily damaged and doesn't look as good.
Any questions just ask!
Chris
