How To Guide Remove an M54 engine

[mrscalex]

This guide attempts to present a step by step guide to M54 engine removal. Note some models may have minor variations to the under bonnet layout, I'm thinking in particular about air con. I would imagine most of this guide can be followed for an M52.

To make matters easiest for myself I am doing this by not only removing the front panel but by dropping the engine subframe too. The usual exhaust manifold to system bolt wasting issue will be dealt with by chopping the system half way and keeping it attached to the manifold which will still be attached to the engine.

I am not an expert but I do try and research things carefully and do them right. It's the 2nd removal I've done. Any corrections or observations are obviously welcome though!

Assumes removal of bumper, headlamps & air flow plastics. In other words your car should look like this.

Session 1 (2 hours) Pt 1 of 2

1. Loosen lower (right side) hose clamp at the radiator, disconnect hose and drain coolant into bucket beneath.

A large tray placed under the bucket is useful to protect your drive from any stray liquid. Removing the coolant expansion tank cap should increase the discharge rate but this may cause more splashing.

2. Cut the cable tie securing the corrugated duct to the upper (left side) radiator hose at the thermostat end.

3. Disconnect the electrical connection from the MAF sensor.

4. Disconnect the overflow hose from the coolant expansion tank by levering up the clip and pulling free.

5. Unclip the MAF sensor from the air filter housing.

6. Loosen hose clamp from air intake boot on the other side of the MAF sensor.

7. Remove the F-connector with both hoses still connected from the air intake boot.

8. Unscrew the single retaining bolt from the inner wing and withdraw the air filter housing.

<Awaiting photo>

9. Remove the bolt on the left side horn bracket and remove the lower alternator air duct.

10. Remove the 3 bolts securing the power steering loop and place the loop still connected under the engine.

Some of the bolts are likely to break off (if not already) from their bonding to the rubber insulator

11. Disconnect the slam panel alarm switch.

12. Remove the 3 bolts securing each of the 2 bonnet catches and withdraw the still connected assembly through the front panel.

13. Drill out the spot welds securing the front panel to the chassis rails. Use an 8mm cobalt drill bit. Very sharp but only a few quid at Toolstation.

Insert a large bolster chiesel into the seam and gently break away any remaining spot weld.

14. Remove the 2 bolts either side securing the front panel to the inner wings.

15. Loosen upper (left side) hose clamp at the radiator and disconnect hose.

<Awaiting photo>

16. Lever off the radiator securing clamps from the slam panel. Insert a narrow flat screwdriver into the recess and twist.

 

[mrscalex]

Session 1 Pt 2 of 2

17. Detach the wiring harness from under the radiator.

Most of the clips are likely to break in this location.

18. Lift away the front panel. The radiator should stay where it is despite just sitting in the mounts loosely.

19. Lift off the radiator assembly which should have the plastic shroud & overflow pipe still attached.

20. Remove the bolts securing the earth straps on the inner wings either side of the car. Pull the earth straps from the threads if they have not already sprung loose.

21. Disconnect the electrical connector from the horn on either side of the car

22. Remove the various clips securing the front lighting loom to the inner wings. Pull the loom back to the vicinity of the coolant expansion tank and drape out of the way.

Most of these clips will be reuseable if removed carefully

23. Depress the locking tab on the diagnostic connector and place out of the way

24. Disconnect the 2 hoses still connected to the coolant expansion tank by lifting the clip and pulling free.

25. Remove the 2 bolts and withdraw the coolant expansion tank

Your car should now be looking like this

In Session 2 I'll cover disconnecting the remaining cables and hoses.

 

[billz]

Great write up @mrscalex

 

[Antm72]

Thanks for taking the time to do this

 

[Uncle_Clanger]

Great start to what will be an invaluable write up for many. Brilliant stuff Robert

 

[billz]

Great start to what will be an invaluable write up for many. Brilliant stuff Robert

Agree as it will also help others to locate and remove individual parts to replace/service

 

[oldcarman]

Only have a 1.9 but I enjoy reading and learning from posts like this. File the info just in case I come across a car with the M52 that needs removing!! Nice clear concise write up!! JIM

 

[mrscalex]

It's been a while... I took the photos at the time and now need to remember the words to go around them...

Session 2 (1.5 hours) Part 1 of 3

26. Disconnect the 2 banjo bolts securing the hydraulic pipes to the steering rack. There is no proper drain plug for the power steering fluid and it will go everywhere. Put as large a tray as possible underneath the work area to catch the drips. Let it drain for 20 minutes and wiggle/move around the pipes to get it all out.

27. You'll also need to disconnect the line underneath the power steering reservoir. It has a cable clamp that will need to be jiggled loose.

28. And the line that runs across the engine subframe will need to be unbolted from it.

29. Loosen the bolt from the lower steering coupling. A piece of rag has been placed over the steering rack hydraulic connections due to the mess from the fluid.

30. Remove the 2 bolts securing the steering rack to the engine subframe.

31. And withdraw the steering rack. You may need to carefully pry open the steering coupling. Protect the ends of the 3 hydraulic pipes from dirt ingress and from causing any drips. A plastic grip seal bag secured by a cable tie is ideal.

32. The engine wiring loom enclosure now needs to be removed where it crosses the bulkhead. This one is a little tricky. You will need to wriggle in a 1/4" socket wrench with a 10mm socket on an extension to undo the 2 bolts which hide away under the plastic.

Here's one of the two threads you are trying to remove the nut from.

33. The plastic brake servo vacuum line clips to the underside of the enclosure. Release the 2 clips by squeezing the tabs.

The oval hole is where the clip was.

34. Pull the enclosure away.

35. Disconnect the battery positive terminal from the wiring centre. Which reminds me - you did disconnect the battery in the boot at the start right?

36. Remove the lid from the wiring centre.

 

[mrscalex]

Session 2 Pt 2 of 3

37. The wiring centre contents now need to be unpicked. I'm not going to go through this step by step but the accompanying photos should give you adequate direction and they appear in the order I tackled this. Suffice to say the important things to note are:

• start off by removing the rubber edging seals
• remove the piece of trim on top of and that secures the brake pipes and washer tubing as it exits the enclosure to the right by undoing the securing clips
• do what looks logical and pull each piece of rubber trunking from the edge and each of the 2 sub-boards from their locations
• however be careful you don't unplug anything you don't need to. Remember we are trying to take the easy route with this engine removal and bringing everything out with the engine that we can. So for example no need to remove the relays from the enclosure or the DME (engine management) silver box itself
• a single connector on the DME needs to be disconnected
• you will be leaving behind 1 section of loom that runs through the bulkhead. The rest comes out with the engine
• when everything is disconnected pull the DME housing out of the enclosure. That will be quite a bulky collection. Wrap it up in a re-useable supermarket carrier bag (ie quite thick plastic) to avoid any contamination.

 

[Lee]

This is grade A stuff man, Keep it coming.

 

[mrscalex]

Session 2 Pt 3 of 3

38. Remove the washer bottle from the bulkhead by removing the 2 nuts.

39. Pull the pump assembly out and remove the washer bottle.

40. Withdraw the power steering cooling loop which we have previously disconnected. Ensure you wrap the ends before removal as the fluid will drip everywhere otherwise.

41. Now we need to remove the heating solenoid which is a bit fiddly as it's tucked well away. Undo the clip at the bulkhead pipework.

And pull the hose off.

42. Free the solenoid from it's mount by sliding out the rubber insulator and remove the wiring connector. We previously disconnected the other house when we remove the expansion tank.

43. The fuel line is next. You won't see many photos of this connection on the internet as it's a pig to get a photo of in situ. At first it may seem awkward to remove but you just need to stick your hand in blind, feel for the plastic end and squeeze it in. It comes off very easily if you press in the correct place. It's probably better to study the photo of it removed to see what you need to press in.

44. Jiggered if I can remember what this connection is for. I'll check it later and update the post. But squeeze in the flexible sides and withdraw. Again, worth protecting the end with a plastic bag secured by a tie.

45. Well unless I've forgotten something that's almost it. Apart from a recommendation to remove the engine covers - can't remember if it's strictly necessary or not but I probably figured it was to hook the lifting chains on more easily. Each has 2 nuts securing it, accessible after removing the flush trim concealing them. And you'll need to remove the oil filler cap too (replace it after cover removal).

46. I did say that's almost it. You will still need to disconnect the gearbox/propshaft and the exhaust. But I'm afraid that's a whole different How To and you should be able to find sufficient advise on this forum or elsewhere to tackle that.

47. And of course you still need to physically remove the engine. That would be very difficult to describe as it's all done by being careful and feeling around. But I would recommend remove the steering coupling as it could get bent by the exhaust manifolds and removing the engine mount brackets once the weight is taken to get extra clearance for removal. If you're not going to do that than you will at least need to release the engine mount bolts, oh and the earth strap adjacent to the driver side mount.

Disconnecting the engine took me 3.5 hours. But disconnecting the gearbox/propshaft and exhaust and physically removing the engine too the balance of 17 hours, ie 13.5 hours. So be warned! The exhaust with it's rotted securing bolts is the worst part!

Good luck!

 

[mrscalex]

And I should of course have said in writing something this long and detailed I will probably have made a few mistakes or possibly missed a step I forgot to photograph. All feedback gratefully received!