Red Highland Z3 1.9 Roadster

[Pls]

This week I have acquired my second Z3, a 1999 E36 M44 1.9 roadster, in Helrot red. 112,00 miles. My previous Z3, 'Ratty', is going in for an MOT retest next week, so we'll see what transpires there. But as this is a new car to me, here is a new thread to record its progress and adventures. After due consideration, it is almost certain to go by the name 'Basil', hopefully not because it's faulty, but after the fox of red fur, Basil Brush.

It has air conditioning, Radio BMW Business RDS and 6 CD Changer, all of which work. The interior is black, imitation leather. It has a full Remus stainless steel exhaust system, and an anonymous alloy strut brace. A couple of years ago, the car was detailed at Highland Polishers of Inverness, ending up with a ceramic coating by IGL Coatings called Ecocoat Kenzo, apparently 'uses the latest nanotechnology and infused with cultured diamond. It is the ultimate 10H ceramic coating in the industry.' So there! I have no idea what all that means, but the total detailing bill was £1000! Over 25 years, out of its' current 112,000 miles, it has done just 12,000 miles in the last 12 years.

So at risk of repeating myself,

Today I attached my OBD2 reader, which recorded no fault codes, so then I took photos of all the live data diagnostic screens. So I shall spend some happy hours looking up what it all means.

In the meantime, I also need to acclimatise myself to the air conditioning system and how it works, and to the fact that the car has an electric fan but no viscous fan.

Cheers

Paul

 

[IainP]

Just been reading about Ratty, if you have time before the Mot, and a plant spray, fill the spray with water and set to mist. Remove the rubber intake, rev to about 2500 revs and spray water mist into the intake. There will be masses of white smoke out the exhaust , which is actually steam. It’s easier with two people as the engine will bog a little. Repeat the spray every ten seconds or so, smoke/steam will turn grey as all the deposits in the chamber and valves come off. Water is a fabulous scouring agent. Takes a good 5-10 mins of revving and idling but it’s an effective Old Skool method of decoking an engine.

 

[Pls]

Thank you for that. I've got some time next week to work on Ratty so I'll give that a go.
Cheers
Paul

 

[Pls]

Despite the awful wet weather and local roads being covered with mud by all the agricultural vehicles involved in lifting hundreds of tons of carrots in the fields around us, I've been driving the new Z3! But I hose it down after each trip out just to get the mud off, without touching the paint!

I decided to keep the registration from Ratty, which has now reverted to its original registration number from Norwich in 1998. It cost £80 to transfer it on line with DVLA, plus £19 locally for new plates for Ratty, which are now fitted.

In the meantime, I ordered a replacement thermostat from Autodoc, which should go on this week.

Over the weekend I also spent some time pimping the new car! I don't intend to do any track racing, and from what I've read, a strut brace really doesn't make much difference in ordinary daily driving, so I've removed it to see. I really like how the car is so original, I've taken the spark plug cover off to clean it and repaint the 'BMW' with silver paint, as it was looking a bit flaky. Then the screen wash fluid container came out because it had some black gunge in it, and it turned out that the little strainer fitted to the bottom of the pump was nearly completely blocked. But a dishwasher tablet dissolved in hot water and a bottle brush sorted all that out.

And the Neutrarust has turned up to smarten the diff up a bit, and the Lanoguard has turned up for application underneath, once I've given it a good jetwash and we have some drier weather.

Cheers

Paul

 

[IainP]

I was just about to start making a strut brace, so if you decide to sell it I'd be quite interested.

 

[Pls]

I was just about to start making a strut brace, so if you decide to sell it I'd be quite interested.

Yes Iain, it is for sale, but I don't know what make it is or what it cost. Message me if you're interested.

Cheers

Paul

 

[John_B]

It looks super clean inside and out!

 

[Pls]

Thanks John, I can take no credit for that, yet! I've just got to keep it that way!

Cheers

Paul

 

[Pls]

We took a run out today, to visit Elgin Motor Museum which has just reopened after Easter.

There are lots of beautiful cars, including a Fraser Nash BMW 328, supplied in 1937 by a dealer in Glasgow. Plus two other BMWs, one of which was nearly in the same colour as my new Z3.

For photos of the other cars at the museum, I have starteda thread in "Write Ups" here: Elgin Motor Museum.


Cheers

Paul

 

[Pls]

After yesterdays excitement (!), today there was some actual progress as I got the car up on Ray's lift to inspect and clean up the underside. It was dry all yesterday and again today, so it was a good opportunity to treat any rust and apply protection. I was originally going to jet wash the underside, but as it was all bone dry I decided to keep it dry and use a stiff brush to remove loose dust, rust and any flaky paint.

I started with the diff, as I always find it sad to be greeted with a big lump of rusty metal whenever working under the car. So that got brushed with Neutrarust after being wire brushed. I cleaned up the alloy transmission cover, with its' speedo sensor, and then started spraying the Lanoguard onto all the surfaces.

Interestingly, just to the left of the exhaust pipe, up above the rear axle carrier, on the boot floor it says "1•99" on the body shell - perhaps a factory mark?

The rear suspension got a clean and protect too,

Having a good look at the exhaust, it turns out that the stainless steel silencers are by Remus, dated 09 06, so 18 years old:

but the catalytic converter looks as though it is the original OEM factory fitted one by Zuena Starker, with a date stamp of '12•98'.

The wheels are in nice condition - I shall have to try and keep them like that!

The brake calipers appear to have a slightly golden finish, which needs cleaning up. I don't think it's paint, it seems that the metal itself has a tint, but I'm not up on such things. Anyway, that's a first go at cleaning the underneath and putting some protection on. Ive not used Lanoguard before, but it is extremely easy go apply with the sprayer provided. I gave just applied it lightly, and will follow that up in the summer with a more in depth cleaning and a further light application, and I shall also treat the inside of the box sections and behind the outer sills etc.

So the two cars were out in the sunshine today, as Ratty had some further work for its' MOT retest tomorrow - fingers crossed!

Cheers

Paul

 

[t-tony]

Hope the retest goes OK, will help you move Ratty along.

Tony.

 

[AntStark]

You definitely got a good one there..looks amazing underneath.

 

[KASPar]

Is that cracking in the sidewall?

 

[Pls]

Is that cracking in the sidewall?

No, I thought that when I saw it, when I was lying underneath the car! But when I wiped my finger over it, it turned out to be drops of Lanoguard running down the tyre decoration. Which is fine, as it is ok with rubber.

Cheers

Paul

 

[Synclare]

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[Pls]

Could just be as the suspension arm is hanging, but the n/s/r ARB drop link looks as though it's getting ready to pop off Paul

Blimey, it looks like you're right - thank you! I'll have a look in the morning, now its back on its wheels. Do the stabiliser links just push on to the ends of the stabiliser, or are the ends of the stabiliser threaded, and supposed to have a nut on them? You'd think so, but it's not clear on RealOEM.

Cheers

Paul

 

[t-tony]

They simply push on Paul.

Tony.

 

[Pls]

Lets hope they don't simply pop off!

Cheers

Paul

 

[t-tony]

The old (Mk.3) Cavaliers had the same idea and could be a real pig to change but I can't recall seeing one come off mate.

Tony.

 

[Pls]

As @Synclare said, it's probably just the angle that the suspension arm is hanging down, far lower than it would ever go when driving. (Hopefully!)
Cheers

Paul