Rebuilt, ran, then nothing.

Ghoul

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Dec 4, 2023
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1997 Z3 Roadster, M52 2.8L
So, I rebuilt the motor, all new gaskets, bolts, cleaned valves, etc. It ran just fine after the rebuild, then after it ran for about an hour, there are no signs of life when attempting to start. The starter got tested today and it tests fine. HELP! The only thing that I changed from when it was running to when it wont make any sound or attempt is, I changed the cam position sensor cause the old one got melted and was throwing a code. Yes I have tried with old and new sensors.

Info about the car:
-ECU is not original to the car, it has been re-flashed and EWS is disabled.
-Ignition cylinder has been replaced with a switch board and relay button (verified all in good order)
-I have 12V at the main starter post and 10V on the 'trigger' post when the ignition is on. I havent had a second set of hands to get a reading when attempting to start.

What have I missed? Where do I need to look to get it running?
 

t-tony

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E89 Z4 23i Auto
Try spraying some carburettor cleaner into the intake whilst cranking. If it tries to start it's a fuel issue.

Tony.
 

Ghoul

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Dec 4, 2023
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Try spraying some carburettor cleaner into the intake whilst cranking. If it tries to start it's a fuel issue.

Tony.
Doesn't crank, no clunk, no clank, no signs of life when attempting to start. I can hear the fuel pump running but there is no sound or movement from the starter. Therefore I cannot do anything while cranking it over
 

Zephyr

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Was the crank sensor a Chinese one?
do you have a code reader?
 

jaguartvr

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It would still crank if it was the cam sensor.
Does sound like a starter motor problem if there isn't even a clunk on an attempted start. Try putting it in gear and rocking the car in case the starter is stuck.
 

Duncodin

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Z3 M44
If there's not even a click from the starter motor I'd be checking the contact on the starter solenoid with a volt meter and working backwards from there. Is there a fuse or relay?
 

Duncodin

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The little wire to the starter. I'd disconnect that and then, with the ignition on, car OUT OF GEAR, I'd use a screwdriver to short the fat wire from the battery to that little connector on solenoid.

If it was me.
 

Pingu

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I know that you say EWS has been disabled, but it could be an immobiliser problem. I would check the whole starter circuit, but it can only be one of three things...

Faulty earth
Faulty supply
Faulty component

Please confirm your build year (I've assumed 2000 for the wiring diagram)

See pages 136 and 137 in here...


Other wiring diagrams...

 

Ghoul

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Hey all sorry for going MIA, been dealing with family medical stuff. Only codes that it throws are for the o2 sensors (currently unplugged) and some fuel trim warnings that have been there since the ECU got flashed. I am 99% certian its NOT EWS unless a bit inside the ECU randomly swapped from a 1 to a 0 (or vice versa) so thats wayyyyy down on my culprit list.
By trigger wire I mean the small wire that goes to the ignition cylinder. This is carrying voltage if the battery cutoff switch is in the on position, regardless of switch positions that are equivalent to ACC and IGN on the ignition cylinder.
I have already pulled the starter and had it tested at my local auto shop and it tests fine, it shoots out and spins with enough torque, but yet when its in the car it is completely unresponsive unless I hook up a separate battery and use that to activate it.
I checked and re did a lot of grounds when rebuilding to hopefully prevent this but I have verified everything is tight and clean.
Cam sensor wasnt cheap Chinese crap, got it from FCP euro. But even then, it should work when the OEM one from 97 is connected like it had before.
 

Ghoul

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Im leaning towards a relay, but even when I swapped all start related relays the same thing happens. Fuel is running and pressuring the system just fine. Cant check spark cause it wont even crank, or clunk, or grind, or do anything that would show an attempted start.
Battery has been on a maintainer for weeks with no difference.
I would try to bump start it but all wheels are off waiting for funding for new brakes and tires cause they're.... well... screwed. I might wrap a rope around the rear hub and see if I can do it that way while in gear. 🧐
 

SV8Predator

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it is completely unresponsive unless I hook up a separate battery and use that to activate it.
Would that not be easier than "wrapping a rope around the rear hub"?
 

jaguartvr

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Check the battery terminals are clean and making good contact. I have had many problems with them, you get power but not enough to throw the starter motor.
 

Ghoul

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Would that not be easier than "wrapping a rope around the rear hub"?
Last time I tried the pinion didn't shoot out, only spun so it wouldnt engage. Thats why I suspected the starter until I had it properly tested. I have yet to re-install it so I guess that would be the first step, other than finding time.
 

Ghoul

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Check the battery terminals are clean and making good contact. I have had many problems with them, you get power but not enough to throw the starter motor.
I completely replaced the battery, terminals and main power and ground wires about 3 months ago, verified no corrosion or loose connections.
 

bear2020

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Once the starter and battery are on the car is there any voltage going to the starter?
If there is it should click even if it does not turn over
If the pinion is not engaging into the ring gear obviously the car will not start but if you have had it tested it should be ok.
Not sure if its auto or manual but have you tried bump starting? I have done this before after testing a starter motor which was ok but would not start. Oddly enough it started when bump starting but would not start from a standstill.
 

Pingu

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As you will have easy access to the starter, I would suggest doing what you thought was daft. Rig up a way to crank the starter with the ignition in position 2.

You should hear the fuel pump prime the system, then stop. After it has done that, crank the starter.
 
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