Rear wheel Camber

Eddie Zedder

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British Zeds
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Megawatt Valley, Notts.
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Z3 2.0
Looks like yours may have lowering springs on which tends to exaggerate the camber. Worn bushes and suspension components will also contribute.
 

Eddie Zedder

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Z3 2.0
There are trailing arm bush kits available that will give some adjustment, I think Poweflex do them.
 

t-tony

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Other than these suggestions when it needs new tyres have them fitted and keep watching the inner wear. When they start to wear have the tyres turned on the rims and use the other sides of the tyres. That's what I did on my Z3 to get the best use of them.

Tony.
 

Stevo7682

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Maybole , South Ayrshire
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Most zed 3 ( not all ) are at an age now where most of the rear subframe and trailing arm bushes will either be worn or on their way to be .
You have to bear in mind on the rear of a zed 3 the bushes are anywhere between 20 -25 yrs old on a rear end design that is going on 40 yr old so a lot of zeds develop inner edge wear as they age gets exaggerated a bit if lowering springs fitted ( your zed is a sport so 15mm lower than a standard zed but the springs are bmw only if you can find them no aftermarket 15mm springs only stock or 30 mm drop ) .
I have inner wear that's worse on nearside and have to swap rear wheels left to right to even wear out.

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We use Hunter alignment at work this is what mine looks like you can see the issue with the nearside.
Stephen.
 

the Nefyn cat

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Other than these suggestions when it needs new tyres have them fitted and keep watching the inner wear. When they start to wear have the tyres turned on the rims and use the other sides of the tyres. That's what I did on my Z3 to get the best use of them.

Tony.

There's a hell of a lot of asymetric tyres around these days that can't be swapped. Bloomin' annoying. Might be a consideration when buying my next set.
 

t-tony

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I don't have that worry anymore now I have a car with adjustable suspension. Hankooks are a good choice.

Tony.
 

RN02ZZZ

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Apr 5, 2021
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This is the problem I’ve got. The tyres are continentals with ‘ inside and outside’ written on the respective side of the tyre wall. So I can’t turn them.
It’s ok for the minute but I’ll stick 2 new rear tyres on it just before MOT and then keep an eye on it from there.
 

Delk

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Z3 2.8 real widebody
You can adjust the rear suspension but you first have to do alot of work and install off set bushings or weld in adjustment plates. I had the rear subframe out and installed the weld in plates. The rear end is now dialed in even on a lowered suspension.
 

AthensGA

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2001 2.5i roadster
I think I saw a write up in the tech section of this forum comparing the benefits of various suspension upgrades and one was a rear strut brace. One of the reported benefits was reducing/eliminating wear on the inner edge of the rear tires.
 

the Nefyn cat

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I think I saw a write up in the tech section of this forum comparing the benefits of various suspension upgrades and one was a rear strut brace. One of the reported benefits was reducing/eliminating wear on the inner edge of the rear tires.

If you're meaning the type of rear brace that goes between the damper top mounts, that'll have no effect on the angle that the rear tyres sit at.
 

AthensGA

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The one I am referring to was described in the Articles section titled Basic BMW Z3 Suspension Modifications where the author calls it a “Butt Strut”. It fits under the car bolted to the crossmember.
 

Dino D

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Kent
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2.8 Manual
You can adjust the rear suspension but you first have to do alot of work and install off set bushings or weld in adjustment plates. I had the rear subframe out and installed the weld in plates. The rear end is now dialed in even on a lowered suspension.
This is on next years list.
Camber hasn’t bothered me before but for track use I’d like to be able to adjust camber and especially toe (it’s the toe that really kills the tyres).
Good to hear it works- which kit did you use?
 

Delk

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Hemsby Norfolk
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Z3 2.8 real widebody
I dont remember where I got it. Its made up with pairs of grooved plates. Harder to adjust but positive locking and will not slip or rotate like adjuster bolts.

You have to loosen the bolt then slide the plates one notch at a time. The car was up and down dozens of times but alignment came out spot on.
 
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