Rear Subframe

[D R Oldfield]

Hi i have decided to bite the bullet and and remove /refurbish the rear subframe assembly from my 1998 2.8
is there any thing i need to know before starting is it straight forward enough i have access to a full workshop and hydraulic press and the car is on axel stands in my garage at home ?

 

[mrscalex]

I think you're starting point is one of the How Tos on here. It's straight-forward if a very long job but only if you have some idea of what order to tackle things

The hydraulic press will be of good assistance to you.

 

[Althulas]

Have a look at Mazza recent build or plenty in the zedshed section with lots of photos for reference but basically for me

Prior to any work I gave nuts and bolts a good spraying a few days prior to starting.

Remove wheels and exhaust. With car in gear and handbrake on undo prop shaft nuts, half shaft bolts and bottom of shock bolts.

Remove callipers ,discs, handbrake assembly and place cable out the way.

Remove springs ,ARB, disconnect Speedo cable abs etc then drained diff oil. I removed my trailing arms but can be left in situ.

Making sure torx heads are clean on rear beam plate and tapping in torx key to ensure it’s seated undo those then loosen of rear beam bolts and diff hanger bolt when ready remove and lower down.

Have a good read of some threads though makes more sense.

 

[DrWong]

Have a look at Mazza recent build or plenty in the zedshed section with lots of photos for reference but basically for me

Prior to any work I gave nuts and bolts a good spraying a few days prior to starting.

Remove wheels and exhaust. With car in gear and handbrake on undo prop shaft nuts, half shaft bolts and bottom of shock bolts.

Remove callipers ,discs, handbrake assembly and place cable out the way.

Remove springs ,ARB, disconnect Speedo cable abs etc then drained diff oil. I removed my trailing arms but can be left in situ.

Making sure torx heads are clean on rear beam plate and tapping in torx key to ensure it’s seated undo those then loosen of rear beam bolts and diff hanger bolt when ready remove and lower down.

Have a good read of some threads though makes more sense.

Useful little summary there

 

[D R Oldfield]

so i can remove the trailing arms with out dropping the subframe the beam and bushes look clean and in really good condition but the swinging arms look really crusty so thats really the reason i want to drop the subframe so i can gain access and get them cleaned up as well as rebush the rear suspension

 

[mrscalex]

so i can remove the trailing arms with out dropping the subframe the beam and bushes look clean and in really good condition but the swinging arms look really crusty so thats really the reason i want to drop the subframe so i can gain access and get them cleaned up as well as rebush the rear suspension

You can. But it's quite hard work accessing the bolts.

 

[t-tony]

You do need the right tools but it can be done.

Tony.

 

[Nodzed]

I would stick to plan A and remove the beam. You will not know the condition of those rear beam bushes until its removed, and they are crucial to the correct handling of the car. Plus "usually" the swing arm bushes are in fact OK and suffer little on the Z3, both of my cars were OK.

 

[mrscalex]

I would stick to plan A and remove the beam. You will not know the condition of those rear beam bushes until its removed, and they are crucial to the correct handling of the car. Plus "usually" the swing arm bushes are in fact OK and suffer little on the Z3, both of my cars were OK.

I'd agree with that. The big fight is getting the trailing arms off. The beam itself is easy in comparison. Though the diff, particularly an LSD, can be a handful if you remove everything piecemeal like I did with the exhaust in position. Much better to remove the exhaust too if you can. But then you need to face the horrible manifold flange bolt issue where they waste away.