Rear push rod (bracket) fixing bolts

[Duncodin]

Going to replace tbe rear beam bushes with Poly.

Car's currently not on the lift so can't see and Missus says I gotta do chores before I can go out to play.

The bracket that real OEM calls a Push Rod. How's that fixed? RealOEM shows a thing they call an inner M8x22 bolt. But sneaking a minute away from chores and feeling underneath it feels like a 6mm Alen key kinda thing.

When I get the car on the lift I want to hit the ground running so want to get all me bits ready to roll.

So what is it?

Thanks guys. Oh! Her she comes. Gotta go. What's that? Walk the dog? Oh that's not a chore. C'mon Archie. Squirrels!

 

[t-tony]

Yes, they are indeed Allen type bolts. There are the most talked about fixings in a Z3 rear end rebuild. Before doing any thing apply rust remover (plus Gas, or other) to the bolt head. Scrape out the loosened debris and knock the socket as far into the bolt head as you can. Attempt to tighten the screw before trying to loosen.

Tony.

 

[the Nefyn cat]

A little bit of praying may not go amiss. Swearing a lot seemed to help with mine, too.

 

[Peter1450]

Then pop to Screwfix for the extractor set to get the stubborn one out

 

[Duncodin]

Yes, they are indeed Allen type bolts. There are the most talked about fixings in a Z3 rear end rebuild. Before doing any thing apply rust remover (plus Gas, or other) to the bolt head. Scrape out the loosened debris and knock the socket as far into the bolt head as you can. Attempt to tighten the screw before trying to loosen.

Tony.

What size?

 

[Pingu]

They are Torx-40. Use a Torx head tool, rather than a hex headed tool. It will bite the interenal hex better. Use A LOT of mechanical sympathy.

As you are doing a kit car, the sills are either off, or will need to come off. Take them off NOW. It will give you access to the thread nut.

See this video that I made when I did mine...

 

[t-tony]

I honestly cannot remember. There is plenty of info on here about them, including that 99% of people replace them with normal Hex. headed bolts.

Tony.

 

[t-tony]

In view of them being 8mm thread they're most likely to be 6mm Allen key size.

Tony.

 

[Duncodin]

They are Torx-40. Use a Torx head tool, rather than a hex headed tool. It will bite the interenal hex better. Use A LOT of mechanical sympathy.

As you are doing a kit car, the sills are either off, or will need to come off. Take them off NOW. It will give you access to the thread nut.

See this video that I made when I did mine...

Sills are long gone. You say Torx? RealOEM says 8mm Hex which would equate to 5mm allen/hex headed tool. So is it a hex but you recommend using torx? Or is it really a torx?

 

[t-tony]

Some people try knocking T40 torx bit into the head. I've just tried all the 8mm Allen bolts in my GYOTS box and they're all 6mm Allen Hex? If the sills have gone and you can see the protruding thread, cut that off with an angle grinder. There is no point trying to screw that rusty thread back through the captive nut.

Tony.

 

[Duncodin]

Some people try knocking T40 torx bit into the head. I've just tried all the 8mm Allen bolts in my GYOTS box and they're all 6mm Allen Hex? If the sills have gone and you can see the protruding thread, cut that off with an angle grinder. There is no point trying to screw that rusty thread back through the captive nut.

Tony.

By "Sills gone" I meant "outer sill gone" to the tip. No way I could get an angle grinder near the captive nut

Squinting through the hole with a torch i can see the captive nut. Doesn't look bad in there.

 

[t-tony]

Got pictures?

Tony.

 

[DomiMik]

Going to replace tbe rear beam bushes with Poly.

Car's currently not on the lift so can't see and Missus says I gotta do chores before I can go out to play.

The bracket that real OEM calls a Push Rod. How's that fixed? RealOEM shows a thing they call an inner M8x22 bolt. But sneaking a minute away from chores and feeling underneath it feels like a 6mm Alen key kinda thing.

When I get the car on the lift I want to hit the ground running so want to get all me bits ready to roll.

So what is it?

Thanks guys. Oh! Her she comes. Gotta go. What's that? Walk the dog? Oh that's not a chore. C'mon Archie. Squirrels!

Here's an alternative for these bolts, I think that would be an improvement:

Bolts of Doom, are they grade 8.8?

As title really, would anyone know if the bolts for the push rods, the bolts of doom, are grade 8.8? Iain

zroadster.org

 

[Duncodin]

Got pictures?

Tony.

Outside the head is very mucky and rusty so I was worried till I lood inside where, for 25 years old, it looks very clean in there.

Going to order new hex and torx sets. Can't find me 5mm hex or T40 so I'll treat myself to a new set (to go in the new toolbox her indoors bought me) and have a go next week. But looking at that captive nut and thread I don't expect much trouble.

 

[t-tony]

That inner looks very clean, but, it's corrosion on the head which causes all the grief. Hope it doesn't give you too much.

Tony.

 

[Duncodin]

I've got a 6mm hex bit that doesn't fit. Also found a 5mm alan key that feels loose in the hole. 5.5 hole? Rusty hole? Or cheap key. Didn't try to turn it. Wait till next week when I have my hammer and spanner pants on.

 

[t-tony]

I’m sure they are 6mm from new. I’ll measure my Snap-On T40 bit.

Tony.

 

[Duncodin]

T40 is 6mm corner to corner. A hex is measured flat to flat. So 6mm Tx would likely fit very snug in a 5mm hex.

Er. I think.

 

[Duncodin]

I’m sure they are 6mm from new. I’ll measure my Snap-On T40 bit.

Tony.

Yep. 1/2" drive 6mm hex insert.

Friday it didn't want to go in so I assumed the hole was smaller. But today I introduced it to my hammer and reluctantly it went in nice and snug and without much resistance the bolts came out easy.

 

[t-tony]

I use mainly 3/8" drive sockets unless it's a suspension job, then it's 1/2" Impact sockets.
My Snap-On 3/8 6mm socket measures,

The T40 3/8 drive is,

That's why they get hammered into a corroded 6mm Allen bolt.

Tony.