Rear Hub removal

[roadvoyager1]

As part of a brake overhaul I want to replace the rear disc protection plates which are well rusted. To do this looks as if the rear hub has to be removed. Does anybody have experience of doing this? Is a right or left hand thread used? Is there muchrisk of damaging the wheel bearing? Any hints or tips would be appreciated. Many thanks

 

[Brian4]

Here's how to do it. It will need a new bearing as you destroy the bearing getting the hub off and the hub nut is very very tight which I think is 200 lb./ft
Might be easier to remove the trailing arm and half shaft and clean up/ paint what you can reach with the disc off or just do it in situ with the disc off.

http://blog.bavauto.com/2814/bmw-re...-e30-e36-e46-e82-e88-e90-z3-z4-x3-and-others/

If you are having it apart worthwhile checking the condition of the bushes at the rear.
Have a look at these threads by @Lee and @GazHyde on the repairs to some Z3 rear ends.

https://zroadster.org/threads/project-dino-d.6735/

https://zroadster.org/threads/project-scarlett-refurbishing-davids-z3.6451/

 

[roadvoyager1]

Thank you for the information Brian.

Also had a look on bimmerfest and found a couple of videos showing rear bearing replacement and a lot of comments saying how much of a pain the job was. According to one member BMW standard time for bearing replacement is 7 hours per side!. Sounds a bit extreme, but several people commented that they were charged $300 to $400 per side by indies which probably means they would allow around 4 hours. Armed with this knowledge have decided it is not worth doing this amount of work just to replace the protection plates right now (they don't look so good but are fully functional) and I have them ready for when there is some real justification for the amount of effort that seems to be required.

 

[zedonist]

I was going to change the wheel bearings, but I had removed the axle before undoing the nut, so I have left them for now as you really need the BMW tool on the car, if the nut was loose then off the car regular bearing pullers will work.

That said once I'm back together I am having them done as I also need the drive shaft gaiters doing, and what I also noticed is that the rear speed sensor picks up off the serrated cover on the drive shaft and mine have corroded, which may add to sensor triggers and the ASC Light.

 

[roadvoyager1]

First job (according to the videos) seems to be loosen off the big nut with the car on the ground and a long shifter bar. As Brian said it is very very tight. How many miles has your car done if you are changing the bearings? From what I have read they should be good for 120K+.

 

[zedonist]

I am overhauling the back end complete, so was changing them as part of that, preventative maintenance you could say, but has highlighted the drive shaft cover though, so 120,000 sounds right to change them and bearings, mine has done 124,000

 

[roadvoyager1]

Mine has just turned 80K so all being well I will be putting this on the back burner for a few years.

 

[Brian H]

Well I have been putting of replacing the rear protection plates but I think the time has come I have had to sort out my handbrake shoes more time than I care to remember (and they have gone again today) so I'll order up the parts and bite the bullet. I'll take notes and pics on the way.

 

[roadvoyager1]

A write up of your method and experience would be most helpful. Item for the knowledge base??? (rear wheel bearing etc replacement)

 

[t-tony]

I have changed rear wheel bearings on several E36 series cars and although not particularly difficult they are time consuming. You will need a press too as I had to press the driveshaft out of every one that I've done and had to thoroughly clean the splines on the shafts before they would go back into the drive flange. I assume they're originally fitted with Loctite or similar?

Tony.