Rear Boot Loom of Doom

[Kevin Norton]

Hi All,

got a question about the loom of doom in the rear boot lid. I have mistakenly cut through the loom (hot) to attach a new boot lid and now the Bl/Gr and WS wires for the motor are on a multimeter reading connected / fused on the car side.

What I would like to know is where do the wires go and what damage could have happened down the line ?

Everything else in the loom works just the whole central locking for the car is down.

Kevin.

 

[Geoff Crispin]

To the lock solonoid in the boot from memory, check the wireing diagram to be sure

 

[t-tony]

A bit late now, but. The best thing to do is disconnect everything inside the boot and tie a string to all the separate parts and pull them out of the lid. You do not need to cut the wires anywhere.

Tony.

 

[Geoff Crispin]

A bit late now, but. The best thing to do is disconnect everything inside the boot and tie a string to all the separate parts and pull them out of the lid. You do not need to cut the wires anywhere.

Tony.

Think that he has already cut them by mistake Tony.

 

[t-tony]

Yes. That was for the benefit of anyone else thinking of doing the same job Geoff.

Tony.

 

[Geoff Crispin]

Yes. That was for the benefit of anyone else thinking of doing the same job Geoff.

Tony.

Right sorry I miss read

 

[colb]

Repaired mine and another members, mine was a more recent fail and the wires were still in good condition with clean copper, the other one had been broken for some time and quite a few wires were broken and full of green crust. Had to cut back quite far to find clean copper so it would solder together, used heatshrink to insulate the solder joints and staggered the joints to keep the loom small. Finished off with plastic split conduit between the grommets and did not clip it back using the plastic support clip just left it free so it has free movement when the boot lid is opened or closed.
If the wiring is too bad for repair you can get a replacement kit to graft in to clean wire whrere its still clean copper.

https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/herthbuss-elparts-7278369.html

 

[Kevin Norton]

Hi Guys thanks for the comments. The issue is when we test the power leads on the car side there appears to be a short which is probably why the central locking is not working. So I'm looking for some guidance onwhere in the cars loom would be the best place to look. I don't believe that there was time for any wires to heat up and melt together with the side cutters cutting through.

Is there another fuse before the fusebox in the engine bay? Is there any point between the boot and the fusebox that a short would have occurred? As mentioned all other functions are fine just the central locking not operational, having to lock boot and drivers door seperately with the key and the passenger door with the knob.

 

[Geoff Crispin]

Faulty solonoid in boot lid possible, was the problem with mine which has just come back but the replacement solonoid i used was second hand, or where the wires are by the hing and bend each time boot is opened and shut maybe.

 

[Kevin Norton]

Hi Geoff
Based on the multimeter reading the there is no power getting through to the solenoid, indicates that there is a short circuit somewhere in the car wiring. I will try using my original solenoid but it was working in the donor car. I'm also going to replace the three fuses that I have checked to see if there is an issue there.

 

[Geoff Crispin]

When I had this problem a few years back on my 98 1.9 I had to strip back the covering on the wires where they bend by hinge and three wires were broken so that is where your problem may be, worthy a try. On my current 02 3.0 the problem was not the wires but the solonoid.

 

[Ahlah69]

When I had this problem a few years back on my 98 1.9 I had to strip back the covering on the wires where they bend by hinge and three wires were broken so that is where your problem may be, worthy a try. On my current 02 3.0 the problem was not the wires but the solonoid.

 

[Ahlah69]

no power does not indicate a short there chaps…more like Geoff said… broken wire at bends….with ignition on there would expected to be power in and out of fuses…?

 

[gookah]

Hi Geoff
Based on the multimeter reading the there is no power getting through to the solenoid, indicates that there is a short circuit somewhere in the car wiring. I will try using my original solenoid but it was working in the donor car. I'm also going to replace the three fuses that I have checked to see if there is an issue there.

No power does not indicate a short.
It may be the result of a short that is no longer present, such as cutting a live and earth at the same time, resulting in a blown fuse,
or the wire being tested could be an earth, or it may only become live under certain conditions that you are not testing under.
check for blown fuses first.

 

[Kevin Norton]

Quick update to the loom saga, when rechecking the fuses I found one that was blown. Replaced it and everything works perfect. They are the ones you view from the side so pretty hard to miss a blown one but I obviously did. Happy days.