Rear Alignment Issue Question

[bigjae1976]

Just bought a 2000 Z3 2.8 with 99k miles for my daughter. Not too bad but everything on it is likely original. Replaced the tie rods, control arms and control arm bushings so front is squared away. Did an alignment and the left rear is a bunch of toe out. Driving feel is good, probably would be OK but still want to get this fixed.

I replaced the rear shocks with Sachs units. Did another alignment, left rear is about the same.

Would the next step be subframe and trailing arm bushings?

 

[t-tony]

It would have to be because there is no "adjustment" for toe-in/out or camber on a standard Z3 (E30 rear suspension).

Tony.

 

[Lee]

Just bought a 2000 Z3 2.8 with 99k miles for my daughter. Not too bad but everything on it is likely original. Replaced the tie rods, control arms and control arm bushings so front is squared away. Did an alignment and the left rear is a bunch of toe out. Driving feel is good, probably would be OK but still want to get this fixed.

I replaced the rear shocks with Sachs units. Did another alignment, left rear is about the same.

Would the next step be subframe and trailing arm bushings?

As Tony said the rear of the Z3 is fixed and has no adjustment, How far out is the toe this could be from a slight knock in the past or a worn swing arm bush.

 

[Robert Hill]

There is no adjustment on the rear check swing arm bushes

 

[bigjae1976]

You can see the left rear is toed out upon close inspection. I'm going to install new trailing arm and subframe bushings this weekend and see if that helps.

Has anyone used these before?

Trailing Arm Camber/Toe Adjustment Kit for BMW E30, Z3, 318ti (bimmerworld.com)

 

[Lee]

You can see the left rear is toed out upon close inspection. I'm going to install new trailing arm and subframe bushings this weekend and see if that helps.

Has anyone used these before?

Trailing Arm Camber/Toe Adjustment Kit for BMW E30, Z3, 318ti (bimmerworld.com)

A few guys have on here, bare in mind you’ll need to drop the subframe aswell to weld these on. Plastic fuel tank is mm above.

Can see what you mean with the rear near side. Have you checked for any play in the arm, wheel bearing etc ?

 

[Delk]

I have heard of them coming loose and going out of adjustment but this maybe just a rumor as I have not actually spoken to anyone who has had it happen. They will be a big improvement but you do need to remove the rear subframe to weld everything in place.

I went with the toothed weld in ones. They are not as easily adjusted but they lock in place when a standard bolt is tightened. Mine were installed so I could correct the excessive camber from the car being lowered.

 

[Nodzed]

I'll admit I am no expert but surely the Z3 rear toe is designed to be controlled by fixed points? So if its out its either bent, buckled or has failed bushes or bearings. If that's correct then isn't repair is the way to go rather than expensive adjustment devices?

 

[bigjae1976]

I have a welder, not an issue. The bushing is definitely worn. The wheel bearing doesn’t have any play.

Hard to tell but the tabs on the subframe where the trailing arms bolt to looks slightly bent after looking at it again. Doesn’t look very robust.

 

[IainP]

You can see the left rear is toed out upon close inspection. I'm going to install new trailing arm and subframe bushings this weekend and see if that helps.

Has anyone used these before?

Trailing Arm Camber/Toe Adjustment Kit for BMW E30, Z3, 318ti (bimmerworld.com)

I have similar i'm in the middle of fitting to 2 rear beams, a company called, I think, born2drift uk. A quick google or ebay should show them. £60 a set if I remember.

Strange its the left side. Both beams had more cracking on/in the left side bushes, whether that's most pot holes are in the gutter, or torque reaction i've no idea.

As you can weld, I can pm you a method to adjust the non adjustable rear beam if you'd like. I'm not putting it on the forum as some knobs will do it without welding. which is madness.
It's cheap, though really quite time consuming, and you'd still have to drop the rear beam/remove the left arm, so like you I'd be inclined to replace the beam bush(es) first as it's quick/easy.

My lad's driven mine very hard, harder than you would on the road, he's convinced there's something wrong with the left rear. Why I'm doing a full rear refurb. I'll now be most interested to inspect the condition of the left beam bush when I drop the suspension out.

iain

 

[the Nefyn cat]

I used some of these on mine

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but mine was more to get rid of the excess camber ( it may be lowered a tad). If you've got a problem with just one side then you may have a bent arm, probably from some previous owner exceeding their talent quota for the day and visiting the kerb a little too closely. And ferociously.
If you're near anyone else on here it may be worth running a tape measure over their arms first before getting carried away trying to adjust something that can't be adjusted. Never a bad idea to change twenty year old bushes, of course.