Play in lower steering column

Ianmc

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The M44 Massive
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Car in for Inspection 1 service last week. Garage noted that there is play in lower steering column; column said to be no longer available. Real OEM lists the part around £300 ish.
Odd thing is that there is absolutely no play detectable by me at the steering wheel, when stationary or on the move.
MOT due shortly (elsewhere as I use an independent MOT tester) so will see if he picks this up.
Just seems a bit strange, potentially sourcing parts for an apparent non problem.
Grateful for any thoughts on this.:confused:
 

BinJuice

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Interested in this as have same issue in mine, mot advisory last couple of years but doesn’t show up driving at all

Keith
 

Stevo7682

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Do you know which part of the column are they referring to the section inside the car or the section in the engine bay with the uj joints.
Stephen.
 

Ianmc

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Do you know which part of the column are they referring to the section inside the car or the section in the engine bay with the uj joints.
I assume (but don't know) it is the lower section in the engine bay which I guess joins the rack?
 

Dakar Z3

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I assume (but don't know) it is the lower section in the engine bay which I guess joins the rack?
Hello Ianmc,
I would suspect it is the lower link in the engine compartment which connects the bottom of the column to the rack, this part was originally manufactured by ZF however it was discontinued over 10 years ago, any stock BMW may have had would be old stock, If it is available from any supplier new it will be an aftermarket copy, albeit probably good quality for a safety critical part but at a ridiculous price.
The best and cheapest option is for a second hand unit, there are many available, if you go for this option check the UJ’s for smooth movement and inspect the the inner sealing rubbers on the joints for splits as this is where the problem starts by letting water and grit into the bearings Which accelerates the wear.
Also inspect the rubber disc for perishing and splits.
Happy hunting.
 

t-tony

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Also make sure the U/Js work freely in both planes. If one is tighter than the other it feels like the steering is "notchy".

Tony.
 

NZ00Z3

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The USA Z3 owners have come up with a typically American fix for this issue. They replace the rubber disk with an ice hockey puck. Apparently its just the right size and all you have to do is drill the holes in it.

I know nothing about ice hockey pucks or what they are made of, but really question that safety of using such an item in a critical safety system like the steering. Yet in the "Land of Litigation" they are happy to do it.

The bottom steering couplings on our RHD Z3's have a heat shield around the rubber disk to protect it from the exhaust heat. The LHD couplings do not have the heat shield. So if you're buying second-hand, make sure you get the correct part.

There are for sale, Poly disks for the steering coupler on the E30/E46. Maybe they are similar and may fit. https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/urethane-steering-coupler-e30-e46/
 

Ianmc

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Further to OP, just had car MOT'd today. Passed with advisory of "play in steering rack inner joint(s)". No mention of steering column.
Think I need a third opinion! :confused:
 

Dakar Z3

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Hello Ianmc,

The inner joints are called axial joints, they are hidden inside the rack gaiters so you can’t actually see the ball end in question, it’s quite an easy fix, however what I would recommend is that if you do change the inner/axial joints also change the outer tie rod ends and also the rack boots, you will then need to get the tracking done on the front once fitted.

If/when removing the existing rod and ends, cut the rack boot off and measure the length of the tie rod assembly as best you can whilst they are still connected together on both sides, these measurements should then be used when fitting the new tie rod end to the axial joint this will make sure the new parts are as close to the original length as possible prior to getting the tracking done.

if you want advice re sourcing the parts, I can help.

i have attached a picture of the tie rod assembly for reference.
 

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t-tony

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Also if the boots are worth keeping I would just remove the big clip and slide the boot off so you can see the 30mm (I think) hex. which you use to unscrew the link off the end of the rack. Wind the rack into the housing so that you can still just get the spanner on the hex. that way there's least strain on the rack itself when you unscrew the joint.

Tony.
 

Ianmc

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Just by way of update, had inner rack joints and track rod ends replaced today (thanks for latter suggestion @Dakar Z3 ). Rack boots (although seemingly original) were fine. Mechanics experience is that originals, if not damaged, are better than replacements which are, in his opinion, of lesser quality. Tracking done of course.
Despite no discernible play before (by me), the steering is super sharp now with no understeer at all; good old 1.9 rack! There must have been play that I hadn't noticed.
I now think that the original "play in lower steering column" comment was a red herring. Hopefully so as part is said to be NLA.
Good outcome in the end. :)
 
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Dakar Z3

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Just by way of update, had inner rack joints and track rod ends replaced today (thanks for latter suggestion @Dakar Z3 ). Rack boots (although seemingly original) were fine. Mechanics experience is that originals, if not damaged, are better than replacements which are, in his opinion, of lesser quality. Tracking done of course.
Despite no discernible play before (by me), the steering is super sharp now with no understeer at all; good old 1.9 rack! There must have been play that I hadn't noticed.
I now think that the original "play in lower steering column" comment was a red herring. Hopefully so as part is said to be NLA.
Good outcome in the end. :)
The mechanic was quite right, aftermarket rack and CV boots are not as good quality as the originals, with the exception of possibly GKN. I’m pleased you sorted the problem with the steering. :thumbsup:
 

t-tony

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S
A few years ago when cheap Chinese drop links started appearing, the rubber boots would be perished and split before the year was out. They are better now though.

Tony.
 
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