There is a 1.9 for sale local to me. Spares or repairs. Seller says there is no spark and fuel pump not working.
Is this a common electrical issue and is it an easy fix?
Is this a common electrical issue and is it an easy fix?
No spark and fuel pump not working
- Thread starter Richard Mancini-howells
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Points
- 178
- Location
- Newport, South Wales,UK
- Model of Z
- Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.0i (2007)
Fuel pump could be fuse or relay gone duff, check those before delving into replacing the fuel pump, first check would be to see if the pump is getting power with the ignition on then work backwards to fuse and relays to see if they have power. Replace if either are suspect. As to no spark start by checking the coils, get a HT tester plug or ground a spark plug to the engine and test all leads from the coil. Is the engine turning over on the starter? Check the battery and its connections for tightness. Stick a code reader on it and see what codes have been stored they may point you in the right direction to fix it. You should be able to source any spares you need from the guys who break Z's on here.
sounds like an EWS (immobiliser) problem to me.
Those are the items that are deliberately stopped from working without the correct key/transducer chip being recognised.
They can be overridden or swapped out .
A decent code reader should pick up the fault if it is with the EWS or keys.
It could be as simple as trying the spare keys.
Those are the items that are deliberately stopped from working without the correct key/transducer chip being recognised.
They can be overridden or swapped out .
A decent code reader should pick up the fault if it is with the EWS or keys.
It could be as simple as trying the spare keys.
That's what I was thinking. Thought it sounded like both issues are linked
I had a similar problem with a BMW 325 ci. The engine wouldn't crank over and I thought it was the starter. I hot wired the starter and it worked. I turned the ignition to on and hot wired the starter again and it didn't start. It should have fired up. So I gave it a shot of ether through the throttle body (not through the air cleaner or it will destroy the MAF sensor) while the ignition was on and it fired burning the ether. I mentioned this to a mechanic friend to me that I thought it unusual that both the starter and the fuel pump would go bad at the same exact time. He said it was probably the anti-theft system. It turns out that the key had a TRANSPONDER in it powered by a rechargable battery. The battery finally failed and then the car wouldn't start. The EWS system included a ring aroung the ignition key that charges the rechargable battery as you're using the car. But the battery can only be recharged so many times and the key fails. They say that you have to buy a new key but I tried to split the key and replace the rechargable battery. I almost succeded but was not careful enough splitting the keay in half and separated part of the battery support and contact from the curciut board inside. A bit more careful and I would have suceeded. Soooooooooo.....new key..........Over $100.00 dollars. I foune 2 pics I took of the transponder from inside the key. In you pic, you can see the long curved tabs that carry the pos. and neg current from each side of the battery to the board. These are soldered in place and the battery slips in between them. Once they came loose from their solder points, the klutz that was working on it might have well tried to re-attach them with a blow torch...............Good luck with it................Frankie
