M44 headgasket. 6 Cylinder Swap?

[B86un2003]

Hi all,

Headgasket has failed on my M44 and I'm debating between doing the headgasket, or fitting a 6 cylinder and so I'm looking for some info/opinions. This car is (for the most part) a daily driver.

Option A, Headgasket) if I do the headgasket, is there anything out of the usual I need to know? Is there anything worthwhile doing whilst I'm in there?

Option B, 6 Cylinder) I like the idea of this, and mechanically it seems fairly straight forward. However, the changes to the chassis loom that need to be made, and the EWS stuff is really putting me off. Any info specific to swapping an m44 out for a 6 cylinder will be appreciated. The car was built August 1998, (as I know the years make a difference for EWS), and the donor car I currently have my eyes on is a prefacelift 2.8, but the year has slipped my mind.

Update: Donor car is also a 1998

Thanks in advance

 

[Duncodin]

Is the donor car worth putting some time into? Might be expensive getting the 2.8 car back on the road. Exceed the value of the car etc. But doing all the work to get the narrow body m44 running nice and safe with the 2.8 engine will cost a packet (or two) too.

 

[B86un2003]

That would be sensible in most cases. However, the narrowbody car is quite tidy (78k miles and seemingly quite rust free), and the donor car isn't mine, but someone selling the engine, loom etc etc. All the bits I need to swap the engine over.

 

[Zephyr]

unless you have the two cars side by side, dont do this mate. Been there, done that, never again. And the worst part, no matter how tidy was my project, it still was a project to the buyers who preferred a complete car even in worst condition.
just my 2c here. Feel free to flame whoever wants to

 

[B86un2003]

unless you have the two cars side by side, dont do this mate. Been there, done that, never again. And the worst part, no matter how tidy was my project, it still was a project to the buyers who preferred a complete car even in worst condition.
just my 2c here. Feel free to flame whoever wants to

I see how you ended up in that situation, and to be honest didn't think it would be too much of an issue with this, because from what I've read it seems that most 4 cylinder parts are compatible. However, you have the experience doing it, not me. I'll take what you said on board as it is right now, 4 cylinder Z3s aren't worth a whole lot anyways, so the resale value isn't scaring me off so much

 

[Andyboy]

4 cylinder Z3's are worth about two carrots and a twix at the moment so resale value isn't a concern.

But it's a PITA to do a 6 cyl swap. You will need to use the 1.9 Getrag gearbox with a Z3 2.0 or 2.2 gear linkage. The longer 2.8 ZF will require a shorter prop. The small gearbox will be okay as long as you don't go mad with it, ditto the diff and shafts.

But you will need the 2.8 PAS pipes and anti roll bar - on the E36 6 cyl cars have a reshaped bar to clear the sump. Then you'll really need 2.8 brakes and front springs, instrument cluster or at least the 2.8 coding chip for the rev counter, exhaust, radiator.............then the ECU won't communicate with the ABS pump/ECU.

It's not worth it.

A head job on an M44 will cost you about 300 quid. £150 to skim and pressure test the head, head bolts, head gasket and front profile gasket plus the bits you really ought to change - the plastic rear coolant elbow and the other one on the block under the inlet manifold. Top tip - only EVER buy genuine BMW elbows as they are the only ones that fit (aftermarket elbows including Febi ones don't) and are 20 ish quid the pair from BMW. The block one comes without the big O ring but that's a pound or two.

Get the head skimmed with the front timing cover bolted on. If you don't you will have an oil leak as the cover will be taller than the skimmed head.

Even if you don't fit a new cam cover gasket, it's vital to replace the oil pressure O ring between the head and cam cover. If you don't you will lose oil pressure as the old hardened seal will leak off pressure.

When taking the head off, leave the inlet manifold on the car and pull it back off the studs, but remove the exhaust manifold with the head which is surprisingly heavy. When refitting, lower the head on without the manifold as it's quite tricky to get it past the chain guides and located onto the dowels whilst keeping the head gasket and the rubber profile gasket in place (stick that down with a thin bead of black sealer). Then bolt the exhaust manifold to the head and then the downpipe to the manifold. It's really worth fitting new head to manifold studs when the head off. The manifold and gasket locates first time.

Before you put the head back on, coat the bores with oil so it has compression straight away. I forgot to do this one the one I did last month and it ran on three until the rings finally sealed.

It's tricky job but not a disaster.

 

[Zephyr]

Top post of 2024 the one above. Propper club attitude! Cheers!

 

[B86un2003]

Firstly, thank you all for the replies. Little update, and now more questions. Despite my best efforts of trying to do a 6 cylinder swap (Originally the swap 'kit' engine, which I became suspicious of the headgasket on, and then winning a Copart car only to find it had a silly reserve), I am doing the m44 headgasket, timing chain and a few other 'whilst I'm there' bits.
The questions: I assume I should replace the timing chain guides with the timing chain? Where should I get them from? What is the size of the Exhaust Manifold-Head studs? Where specifically should I get the rear coolant elbow? I've found a genuine BMW one for sale, on a seemingly genuine BMW parts website, but it would be coming from overseas and I'm worried about wait time.
Should I also replace PCV/Vacuum components (here's that phrase again) 'whilst I'm there' and if so, can someone spell out what I need from where please?
Thanks in Advance

 

[Andyboy]

Don’t touch the chain or guides. Buy the bits from BMW.