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[Nodzed]

M specific things
Check the boot welds (diff hanger) lift the carpet and make sure there are no cracks or popped spot welds.
Make sure there is no Vanos growl (rev up ---when its warmed up--- and if there is a problem the vanos will growl as the revs drop (will affect performance and drive you nuts)
Rear springs can snap worth checking sometimes difficult to see until removed
I understand the S54 has issues with the big end shells?? not sure how you check this
Get it up to temperature and make sure the water temp dial sits in the middle and doesn't fluctuate.

Other stuff:
If it has aircon check it works the condenser rad is very vulnerable to stone damage (overhaul of mine was £680)
Seat bushes (seat rocking, will need bush replacement)
Front end of sills rusting (huge problem with all Z3s)
Suspension and bushes in general, the M stuff is not the same as the non M z3s and its all darn expensive, (ask me how I know!)
Out of line stick is the detent pins (box out job) I would live with it until you need a clutch change.

First jobs if you buy
Change the gearbox oil will help a ton with the gear change
Change the diff oil


My top tip
Don't ever drive it hard (I don't go over or usually close to 3k rpm) until the OIL temp is around the 80 to 90 degrees
Heres the Z3M register
https://bmwmregistry.com/model_faq.php?id=16

 

[minesh patel]

You are welcome to give us a call at ClassicLine with any insurance questions - always happy to help. 01455 639 000

thanks, will do

 

[minesh patel]

Hi

thanks

M specific things
Check the boot welds (diff hanger) lift the carpet and make sure there are no cracks or popped spot welds.
Make sure there is no Vanos growl (rev up ---when its warmed up--- and if there is a problem the vanos will growl as the revs drop (will affect performance and drive you nuts)
Rear springs can snap worth checking sometimes difficult to see until removed
I understand the S54 has issues with the big end shells?? not sure how you check this
Get it up to temperature and make sure the water temp dial sits in the middle and doesn't fluctuate.

Other stuff:
If it has aircon check it works the condenser rad is very vulnerable to stone damage (overhaul of mine was £680)
Seat bushes (seat rocking, will need bush replacement)
Front end of sills rusting (huge problem with all Z3s)
Suspension and bushes in general, the M stuff is not the same as the non M z3s and its all darn expensive, (ask me how I know!)
Out of line stick is the detent pins (box out job) I would live with it until you need a clutch change.

First jobs if you buy
Change the gearbox oil will help a ton with the gear change
Change the diff oil


My top tip
Don't ever drive it hard (I don't go over or usually close to 3k rpm) until the OIL temp is around the 80 to 90 degrees
Heres the Z3M register
https://bmwmregistry.com/model_faq.php?id=16

Thanks so much for your advice and help,

on the M specific stuff, i didn't see or hear any of those issues and have no idea how to check he big end shells though the engine looked clean and not "jet washed". i didn't check the temp gauge but the seller had dried it for half an hour before i got it and it seemed smooth apart form the 1st and 2nd gears seeming a bit notch. the clutch was relatively light and easy.

on the other stuff, i checked all that and his one didn't seem to suffer from any of those issues though my friends 1.9 Z3 has had all of them over than the rust!

The seller is getting a full service done and changing/topping up (with the right oils) and providing a report from an independent BMW specialist (don't know who yet but expecting the report early next week) on a lot of the points you've mentioned but i will double check all of your tips when i go to pick up/pay

and thanks for the top tip, and register

I'll post more as i go through the journey as i get more info.