How do I get the handbrake cable off?

[David Carter]

Started one of those five minute jobs that has currently spread as far as removing the offside rear trailing arm on my 1997 2.8. All just about done except I can't work out how to get the handbrake cable free of the hub carrier. As far as I can tell from other articles the ferrule on the end of the cable is an interference fit into the carrier and should be worried free with grips or the like. Needless to say mine seems to be rusted solidly into place and the design of the surrounding area is such that you can't get a firm grip on it with anything substantial due to the shape of the surrounding metalwork. Does anyone have a cunning scheme to free it off without destroying the cable?

 

[DomiMik]

Actually the handbrake cable is mounted to the expanding lock behind the brake disc, not to the hub carrier. Remove the brake disc and you'll see the handbrake mechanism, once you remove the expanding lock there will be a pin that holds the handbrake cable in place.

 

[Pingu]

Mine was seized into the hub carrier. As it was only being replaced for preventative maintenance, I left it, but I did try using a prusik knot on the cable and trying to free it - but no good.

I would have tried heat, but that would have been destructive and would have melted the inner sleeve - and may have heated the hub bearing grease.

If it MUST be replaced, I'd be tempted to attack it with a drill.

 

[David Carter]

Thanks DomiMik, but I've got that end free. It's where the outer cable enters the hub carrier from the other side that I have the problem, similar to what Pingu was suffering by the sound of it.

 

[Woodsta888]

I've had this issue. I ruined the cable in the end. Even with mole grips, furious wrenching after days of penetrating fluid. IN the end I had disassemble the hardbrake assembly, snip the end of the cable off that Dominik circked and turn the hub so that I could get the fattest screwdriver I had through the wheel bolt hole and beat it out. I'd get a new cable ~£22 from memory (autodoc). Reassembled with copper grease. Otherside came out fine. Good luck

 

[mrscalex]

You'll also have the same problem at the other end at the rear bulk-head. It won't be so crusty but it's tricky to get a tool up and twist and they can still be stuck. I'm not sure if you are aiming to save the cables but I would accept replacing them. They do stretch and it may not always be apparent. They are about £20 ea from BMW. This is often cheaper than non-OEM and they need no fettling to fit at the handbrake end. Then use fair means or foul to get the ferrules out.

 

[David Carter]

As it happens I've found a split in the outer cable further forward. I was trying to minimise the amount of work immediately necessary to get the Old Girl back on the road, but I guess that makes the decision for me. Cutters and large hammer it is then!

 

[Woodsta888]

Give it a good soak overnight with some penetrating fluid. It was impressive how much it was seized in.

 

[MartinJ]

I used Aeroknoil, WD40 special fluid then a dab of freezing agent on the body side cable metal parts ends I could see. Left it for 10-15 minutes and with a boot on the body pulled it with reasonable pressure. Could try that method.

 

[MartinJ]

Do like Woodsta888 method though.

 

[t-tony]

If the outer casing is split then it's "no brainer" to just yank it out and fit a new pair of cables.

Tony.

 

[the Nefyn cat]

Took mine out with a nice long drill bit, through a wheel bolt hole. A while to do, but no beating.

 

[mrscalex]

I just took pair out today. A lot of hard whacks with a drift down the hole - very stuck.