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hot air

Discussion in 'M44 Massive' started by phil.a, Sep 7, 2014.

  1. phil.a

    phil.a Zorg Legend
    The M44 Massive

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    hi out in car today and noticed it was blowing hot air all the time and could not switch it of sender gauge reading o.k., air con not working, not sure that makes a diffrence any ideas
     
  2. zedonist

    zedonist Guest

    Good chance it's linked to the aircon not working, if everything else is working fine.
     
  3. phil.a

    phil.a Zorg Legend
    The M44 Massive

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    hi my z3 1.9 is blowing hot air all the time manual controls, temp gauge showing normal car running ok air con not working but was like that when i brought it, blower speeds working, ant ideas....
     
  4. David Cullen

    David Cullen Zorg Legend
    Supporter The M44 Massive

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    did you go through all your fuses? check the back of the dials, not sure how it works in bmw but there might be a rheostat involved which might be just gone. if you can get your hands on another control unit and swap out to see if that works.... hopefully its just a fuse :)
     
  5. zedonist

    zedonist Guest

    It could be a broken Bowden cable to the regulator flap?
     
  6. phil.a

    phil.a Zorg Legend
    The M44 Massive

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    now you got me whats that:nailbiting:
     
  7. zedonist

    zedonist Guest

    Well both heater and air con systems are controlled by flaps, which control the input of air from outside or inside the car, I think on modern cars it is called the circulation for inside sir, anyway this is the difference between cold and hot air, on our cars, this is done by a wire attached to a flap and the dial the turn, if the wire or mechanism is broken, the flap will not turn.
     
  8. phil.a

    phil.a Zorg Legend
    The M44 Massive

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    ok got what you mean on older cars you had a cable from the control knob to the matrix, that controlled the flap, but i thought the z3 might have been controlled by power, not cable,
     
  9. GazHyde

    GazHyde The Gaz Monkey
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    A lot of the Z3 is taken from "older" BMWs, so tend to have fairly basic operation. Cables, pulleys and mechanical stuff galore. Probably just as well because electrical stuff tends to be harder to fix...
     
  10. zedonist

    zedonist Guest

    Well Z3 are not modern cars they first came out in 1995, nearly 20 years ago, the design other than exterior did not change, modern cars have servo motors on the flaps, the Z3 has cables, which us good because they are cheaper, if that is what is wrong..........
     
  11. phil.a

    phil.a Zorg Legend
    The M44 Massive

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    could well be as there is no feel to the heater knob thats why i thought it might be electric, will have to find some time between doing the kitchen up before winter comes on, better hot than cold this time of year,:happy:
     
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  12. t-tony

    t-tony Zorg Expert (I)
    Supporter British Zeds #ZedShed

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    Are there any vacuum operated controls on the heater flaps?
     
  13. phil.a

    phil.a Zorg Legend
    The M44 Massive

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    not sure were to look busy in the house at the moment as soon as i get some time will check it out, but from what as been said so far it may be a cable as there is no resistance at the control knob
     
  14. zedonist

    zedonist Guest

    No Tony, just a cable:

    image.jpg
     
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  15. zedonist

    zedonist Guest

    You may be able to do it without removing the centre console, but it will be extremely tight, using the side access panels and the radio slot, and for the pain, IMHO, it's not much extra just to remove the console, it's then just like replacing a bicycle brake cable.
     
  16. GazHyde

    GazHyde The Gaz Monkey
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  17. phil.a

    phil.a Zorg Legend
    The M44 Massive

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    cheers all what would we do with out this site, all i need now is time :(
     
  18. AussieZ3

    AussieZ3 Dedicated Member
    Australian Zeds The M44 Massive

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    It is possible that your heater valve does not close when you turn the temperature controller to the blue zone. When the controller is turned to the maximum cold setting (blue zone) full voltage is applied to the heater valve to close. Your problem could be due to a blown fuse, faulty controller, or a loose earth connection. I have a similar problem with my car that the heater does not work at all even with the controller in maximum heat (red zone) with the fan operating at the maximum setting. I removed the supply plug to the heater valve with controller at the blue zone and checked the voltage with a multimeter and measured zero voltage. If the system was working correctly the meter should have read 12.5V. Mine appears to be due to two problems. Heater valve stuck closed combined with a faulty controller or loose earth connection. Any comments or ideas would be welcome.
     
  19. zedonist

    zedonist Guest

    Good call Aussie, I would check the simple things first though as that valve is a bit expensive, but logic would suggest if the cables are ok, the fuses are ok, the wiring to the valve is ok, it could be the valve.
     
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  20. AussieZ3

    AussieZ3 Dedicated Member
    Australian Zeds The M44 Massive

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    I have checked the main fuses feeding the valve and they are ok. My air conditioner works well and the fan blows air through all the vents including the windscreen vents indicating that the dampers operate as required. When the controller is turned from blue to red zone and back the valve should open and close and if you listen carefully you should hear the valve operation. The heater valve on my car definitely does not operate and the only items remaining to be checked is an inline fuse to the valve behind the center console and the earth connection at the passenger side foot well. I will check these and get back.
     
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