Hood waterproofer.

ABERTAWE Z

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Z3 VELVET 2.0 INDIVIDUAL.
Hi can anybody suggest a very good soft top waterproofer.
 

Titan

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There are a number of products that you can use.
AutoGLym amd Meguiars do soft top kits and BMW also do a "cabriopflege" set if you want to both clean and proof your hood.
The BMW cleaner is particularly good ;)
If you just want to reproof your hood, then Fabsil (as used on tents etc) is probably the best option.
Halfords sell it in various quantities but 1 litre is enough to do a Z3 hood at least twice.
 

wonderloaf

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Basingstoke
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I bought the Meguairs cleaner+proofer kit and after 3 proofings am still using the supplied cleaner, although have to buy a new spray can of proofer every time.
The cleaner is very good, always amazed how dirty the hood gets, although had I known about the Fabsil, would have saved me some money..oh well next time!
 

Titan

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Nice one Muppet
Although I've never used it, I'd forgotten about Renovo.


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GazHyde

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I'm thinking of trying gtechniq I1 next...

 

TWO

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GazHyde said:
I'm thinking of trying gtechniq I1 next...
I used Gtechniq on the Zed last year; and when dry, the waterproofing is exactly as the video shows,..........expensive, but worth every penny for the finished result :-bd
 

Off Your Marks

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I'm a fan of the Nanolex stuff - just like the Gtechniq stuff. Also a fan of the Fabsil

Ive found stuff like the nanolex and the gtechniq tend to alter the feel and look of the fabric slightly, making it slightly rough. The fabsil does not but doesn't bead quite as well.

I use neither on mine though as I'm too soft to take it out in the rain :rain(
 

Monkey

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Mar 6, 2012
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I've just bought a bottle gtechniq I1, lets see how it performs.

i may use it on the carpet in the living room round the missus' sofa, for when she spills wine etc.
 

Mouldy

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GazHyde said:
I'm thinking of trying gtechniq I1 next...

Works for me. Here's a couple of shots after I treated the wife's Crossfire to a coat;





The instructions on the bottle are a bit vague, to sat the least, but I re-treated it earlier this year by giving it about five or six light coats, leaving each one to dry for about five minutes and it seems to be working much better. The fabric feels much softer and looks less like the 'shellacked' look that the Autoglym product used to leave.

It is also much easier to get any overspray off the paintwork than the Autoglym proofer.
 

SilverZed

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Sunderland
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2.2
Proofed mine today with a big aerosol of Fabsil. First vacuumed the hood with the Miele on full suckiness (lifts carpets in the house!) Then split a few bin liners and masked off screens and bodywork. I applied 3 light coats working into fabric each time with a cloth. Opened the hood slightly to get at the fabric under the seal. There was probably enough left in the can for another coat but I thought 3 would be enough.

Was going to get the paint on version but was worried about creating an uneven effect due to it drying too quick.

Happy with the result looks very clean and tidy.

I'm not sure this grade of mohair would ever leak even if you don't bother to proof it and it looks sodden on the outside I think it would still hold out the rain.

Better safe than sorry though.

:coolsteer) :coolsteer) :coolsteer) :coolsteer) :coolsteer)
 

swamper

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just done mine tonight with the Meg's stuff.......took longer to mask off the paint than use a can of it...but it drys even so thats a plus..TBH no real drama's with it will just have to see how long it lasts
 

stevie_a

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OK my roof was covered with green mould, I was always told never wash a material hood

Well i had just about enough of the mouldy hood

This is very unorthodox method for car hood cleaning but i will tell you the hood looks like new now

first i washed the hood with warm hot soppy water



then i used a hot water pressure washer... :-s



then re done hot soppy water and another pressure washer

then used this ( i worked for Chem-Dry on my last job and had a few cans in the garage)



a good even covering when it is wet then let it dry in the sun

it now looks great

at this point i have to see if it works for waterproofing

 

Jamezee

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Peak District
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I use the autoglym kit.

Last time I used it I only got chance to do the cleaning stage and never got round to the proofing stage (garaged so wasn't so bothered thought I would get around to it).
I still have not proofed it and it seems to be running off fine, not beading as it has before but I have not noticed any problem.

I am sure that I read on this or .net somewhere that the roof is not meant to bead but just dry out. I have never seen any dampness coming through the roof in four years.
Has anyone any idea if the roof will be damaged by not reproofing?

Is it ok to just clean it?

Are these products really needed?

I wonder :-?
 

wildeboy

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Birstall, West Yorkshire
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none anymore
Hi Jamezee,

I think if you don't proof the roof you are more likely to get green algae or moss growing as the roof will be damp.

Having said that, my roof went green having reproofed it, I cleaned it and didn't reproof it about 2 months ago and it is still not green now!
 

Titan

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IIRC the facelift hoods ate multi layered with mohair on top and a non permeable membrane underneath. Beading or otherwise is therefore irrelevant. However the prevention of algae growth should be enhanced by proofing the external fabric.


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