Hi guys thanks for the add

Ad1

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Nov 9, 2019
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Hi I have had my Z4 3.0 e85 for about 5 months now I have done a few things to get it right.

I so have a problem with my roof seems to be that everyone has had issues, I can't seem to fix mine. Here goes the roof motor has been relocated and overhauled, the problem is when you try to open the roof it unlatches I need to open it about a foot , then it will carry on its own. It shuts fine. I tried swapping the lines and then it opens fine and struggles to shut , I have checked the fluid level and the motor it is a new one. Im wandering if the hydraulic pump is not very good. I have also tried it with the car running no change either I am stumped . Any help would be much appreciated cheers Adrian
 

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t-tony

The Legend
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#ZedShed
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Dec 31, 2013
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226
Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
Have you checked the roof frame joints for any distortion as the problem seems to be at the front section of the roof? Has this only happened since the motor was relocated. Could any of the pipes be kinked not alllowing proper flow of flud?

Tony.
 

Ad1

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Nov 9, 2019
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Hi Tony, I have checked over the frame work, and lubed the joints. I can't answer the question about the relocation as it was done before I received the car. I wouldn't think it was the frame because if I swap the lines and the power it works fine . It would be nice if I could get a new hydraulic pump the motor is fine. Does anybody know much about the hydraulic pump?.
 

Ad1

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Nov 9, 2019
Points
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Hi Tony, I have checked over the frame work, and lubed the joints. I can't answer the question about the relocation as it was done before I received the car. I wouldn't think it was the frame because if I swap the lines and the power it works fine also I think the lines would be fine too as swapping the lines makes the problem go to shutting the roof not opening. It would be nice if I could get a new hydraulic pump the motor is fine. Does anybody know much about the hydraulic pump?.
 

t-tony

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Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
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E89 Z4 23i Auto
Mine is in the boot too, courtesy of a Z4 roof motor relocation day at my place 18 months ago. I will take some pictures tomorrow and see if that throws any light on it.

Tony.
 

Shelly

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British Zeds
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Mint

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Hi @Ad1, :welcome: to the forum from me too in Staffordshire. Good luck sorting your roof, sorry can't offer any help as I'm a Z3 man;)
 

Keet

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Hello and welcome to the forum :thumbsup:
 

FRANKIE

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American Zeds
The M44 Massive
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Egg Harbor Township, New Jersey, USA
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Z3
Welcome to the forum from Egg Harbor Township, New Jersey. I have read your post on the problems you are having with your roof. I would think that there could be several causes for the problem as you initially stated if. However, since you have swapped the lines and the problem has reversed, this has changed things. Mechanics often switch things around in an effort to do diagnostic tests to see which components are working and which are faulty. In switching lines, you have shown that in either opening or closing, the motor is capable of performing either task completely. It seems that the only continuously faulty component is the same hydraulic line. On the first exercise, the top doesn't open as it should, but closes properly. On the second exercise, after the lines are switched, the top opens properly but cannot completely close. Hopefully, you can identify the line that was switched that was responsible for opening the roof in the first test and closing the top in the second test. It would seem that the problem is in that particular line. Is it kinked or blocked or have an air pocket in it? Is it possible to disconnect the line and operate the motor for just a moment to blow it clean or clean? I am assuming that when you say that you swapped lines, you completely removed two lines and switched them Make sure there's no air in the lines just like is necessary in a brake line...Let me know how you make out...................Frankie
 

Nodzed

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:welcome:
 

Ad1

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Nov 9, 2019
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Welcome to the forum from Egg Harbor Township, New Jersey. I have read your post on the problems you are having with your roof. I would think that there could be several causes for the problem as you initially stated if. However, since you have swapped the lines and the problem has reversed, this has changed things. Mechanics often switch things around in an effort to do diagnostic tests to see which components are working and which are faulty. In switching lines, you have shown that in either opening or closing, the motor is capable of performing either task completely. It seems that the only continuously faulty component is the same hydraulic line. On the first exercise, the top doesn't open as it should, but closes properly. On the second exercise, after the lines are switched, the top opens properly but cannot completely close. Hopefully, you can identify the line that was switched that was responsible for opening the roof in the first test and closing the top in the second test. It would seem that the problem is in that particular line. Is it kinked or blocked or have an air pocket in it? Is it possible to disconnect the line and operate the motor for just a moment to blow it clean or clean? I am assuming that when you say that you swapped lines, you completely removed two lines and switched them Make sure there's no air in the lines just like is necessary in a brake line...Let me know how you make out...................Frankie
Hi
I can disconnect the lines to blow through but as I have been told the system self bleeds. The only thing I can narrow it down too is the hydraulic pump on top of the motor, must be weak on one side. Would be nice to know if I could adjust the ports on top of screwing in the valve would give more pressure. Surely it has to be the hydraulic pump because if the lines are swapped then the roof opens but struggles to close. This proves that the system works fine in all directions motor , hydraulic lines and all other functions. Has to be the pump
 

Slam

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Hi and welcome from London
 

FRANKIE

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American Zeds
The M44 Massive
Joined
Sep 2, 2013
Points
193
Location
Egg Harbor Township, New Jersey, USA
Model of Z
Z3
Hi
I can disconnect the lines to blow through but as I have been told the system self bleeds. The only thing I can narrow it down too is the hydraulic pump on top of the motor, must be weak on one side. Would be nice to know if I could adjust the ports on top of screwing in the valve would give more pressure. Surely it has to be the hydraulic pump because if the lines are swapped then the roof opens but struggles to close. This proves that the system works fine in all directions motor , hydraulic lines and all other functions. Has to be the pump
It's difficult for me to add more to this as I never had to deal with the pump on a Z. I once had problems with the top on my Mercedes '99 SLK. The seal on one of the mail lift cylinders went bad and I replaces the cylinder. What I don't know is how the pump diverts or directs the fluid to the different lines. The only way I could agree with you is if there are two pumps driven by the motor, (or I just don't understand what you are saying). Without ever actually looking at one, I might find it unusual that the motor, which seems to have enough power to do the job, drives only one pump. I don't know how the decision is made to divert the fluid that is being pumped to go to the lines that are called for when directing the top to go up or down. Is it done by electrical switches or solenoids? Perhaps @t-tony can tell us or someone who's worked with one. The pump on my Mercedes had a motor, a reservoir, and a head with seven lines coming out of it. My '96 Z had a manual top. I haven't even looked at the pump on my ///M. Perhaps if it uses solenoids, the one for that line doesn't operate completely or is faulty. There are members on this forum that have rebuilt the pumps and would know. I'm really interested to find out what the problem is. In the meantime, I have 2 repair manuals I can look at. Where are you located?..Frankie
 

Michael Burridge

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Sep 25, 2019
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Welcome! Some invaluable stuff on here so you've found a good place for reference and questions.
 

Ad1

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Nov 9, 2019
Points
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It's difficult for me to add more to this as I never had to deal with the pump on a Z. I once had problems with the top on my Mercedes '99 SLK. The seal on one of the mail lift cylinders went bad and I replaces the cylinder. What I don't know is how the pump diverts or directs the fluid to the different lines. The only way I could agree with you is if there are two pumps driven by the motor, (or I just don't understand what you are saying). Without ever actually looking at one, I might find it unusual that the motor, which seems to have enough power to do the job, drives only one pump. I don't know how the decision is made to divert the fluid that is being pumped to go to the lines that are called for when directing the top to go up or down. Is it done by electrical switches or solenoids? Perhaps @t-tony can tell us or someone who's worked with one. The pump on my Mercedes had a motor, a reservoir, and a head with seven lines coming out of it. My '96 Z had a manual top. I haven't even looked at the pump on my ///M. Perhaps if it uses solenoids, the one for that line doesn't operate completely or is faulty. There are members on this forum that have rebuilt the pumps and would know. I'm really interested to find out what the problem is. In the meantime, I have 2 repair manuals I can look at. Where are you located?..Frankie
Hi Frankie I live in Wiltshire near Amesbury, the hydraulic pump sits on top of the motor with 4 hydraulic lines
 
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