Heater cable

Howard

Zorg Addict
French Zeds
Joined
Nov 17, 2016
Points
64
Location
South West France
Model of Z
3.0i (manual)
Hi, have just been out in the Z and it’s cold, went to turn the heater temp control from cold to hot, felt resistance whilst turning knob, sudden loss of resistance and control feels loose and no heat what’s so ever.
Has any one any ideas before I start looking at it.
Thanks in advance.
H
 

andyglym

Shiny Dust Caps Make Your Zed Go Faster.
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Feb 20, 2015
Points
231
Location
Moresby, West Cumbria, England
Model of Z
2.8 Roadster
Hi, have just been out in the Z and it’s cold, went to turn the heater temp control from cold to hot, felt resistance whilst turning knob, sudden loss of resistance and control feels loose and no heat what’s so ever.
Has any one any ideas before I start looking at it.
Thanks in advance.
H
Have you had the cooling system serviced recently? If so these cars are buggers to bleed. Bleed, bleed and bleed again if that's the case.
 

hard top

Zorg Expert (I)
Dutch Zeds
The M44 Massive
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
Points
213
Location
Netherlands
Could be this?

1. No control over the direction of the vent system. In particular, I've been unable to send air through the defogger vents.


2. No heat!


My experience with underdash work on VWs led me to prep for this one by going to yoga twice last week, but it really wasn't that bad. I was able to do most of the work either sitting outside or in the passenger seat.


Access is through the center console, which needs to be just about removed for anyone with man-sized hands and non-X-ray eyes. First, the glovebox needed to come out, then the radio. I found a label on the aftermarket radio from a local stereo shop, dated after the car was traded in. As the car had spent the last ten years 700 miles south of here, clearly the radio was replaced as part of the dealer's used car prep. Here's also where we find out, that no matter what anyone says about her, that all sorts of gorillas have had their hands on her. See the butt connectors, and the console mounting screw that's missed its target on the middle left:






Once everything was out, here's the working side of the controls:





All three levers (red, offwhite, and green) run on pins in cams on the directional control (red and green) and the heat control (offwhite). The pin was broken off the offwhite lever at the bend:





Also, the red lever was not sitting all the way in, so its pin was disengaged. The red one would seem to be the one that sends air to the defogger vents. The green one would appear to control the floor or upper vent choice.


Here's where it sits right now until I hit the parts guy at the stealer tomorrow:


 

hard top

Zorg Expert (I)
Dutch Zeds
The M44 Massive
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
Points
213
Location
Netherlands
Got it back together today. Here's the basic problem with the cable adjustment. The cad plated bit should be centered on the top of the black arm:





It's a tight friction fit on the cable. I was able to work it down a bit and now the dash control can go all the way to cold. I moved it a bit further, actually, as the flap sticks when closed and that may have caused the OG pin to break. As I understand it, there was a foam gasket and either it deteriorates and the old adhesive causes the flap to stick or it just turns sticky itself. So now it doesn't close all the way, and there's no sticky spot coming off cold. Here's the result. A couple zip ties were added as safeties to keep the adjustment:














I'm definitely getting my money's worth from the yoga classes. This position is called 'mroadsteryana' which translates as 'cheap idiot fixing heat.'

What I also believe is causing the pins to break and cables to bend, is deteriorating foam on one of the flapper doors "gluing" it shut.

Frequently operating the controls may prevent it from creating too great a bond.
 

Howard

Zorg Addict
French Zeds
Joined
Nov 17, 2016
Points
64
Location
South West France
Model of Z
3.0i (manual)
Have you had the cooling system serviced recently? If so these cars are b*****s to bleed. Bleed, bleed and bleed again if that's the case.
Hi, the cooling system is ok, had a 1000 mile trip to Corsica in September.
It’s a mechanical fault cable related.
 

Howard

Zorg Addict
French Zeds
Joined
Nov 17, 2016
Points
64
Location
South West France
Model of Z
3.0i (manual)
Got it back together today. Here's the basic problem with the cable adjustment. The cad plated bit should be centered on the top of the black arm:





It's a tight friction fit on the cable. I was able to work it down a bit and now the dash control can go all the way to cold. I moved it a bit further, actually, as the flap sticks when closed and that may have caused the OG pin to break. As I understand it, there was a foam gasket and either it deteriorates and the old adhesive causes the flap to stick or it just turns sticky itself. So now it doesn't close all the way, and there's no sticky spot coming off cold. Here's the result. A couple zip ties were added as safeties to keep the adjustment:














I'm definitely getting my money's worth from the yoga classes. This position is called 'mroadsteryana' which translates as 'cheap idiot fixing heat.'

What I also believe is causing the pins to break and cables to bend, is deteriorating foam on one of the flapper doors "gluing" it shut.

Frequently operating the controls may prevent it from creating too great a bond.
 

Howard

Zorg Addict
French Zeds
Joined
Nov 17, 2016
Points
64
Location
South West France
Model of Z
3.0i (manual)
Hi, looks like iv got to practice my yoga ‍♀ moves. Is it a possibility that the fault might be at the bottom end of the cable, shown on the last few pictures.
2c here, so it’s definitely going to have to wait.. good job it’s not used much in the winter.
H
 

hard top

Zorg Expert (I)
Dutch Zeds
The M44 Massive
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
Points
213
Location
Netherlands
This is the way the guy repaired it.

Went to the dealer, and the lever arm was not available except as part of a $200 HVAC control box. Same story at my foreign FLAPS. Screw that. Time to make the old arm work.


First I measured an existing pin, and wrote down the details:





Thence to the hardware store to find a substitute item. Once back home I drilled:





And tapped:





To make a home for this:





Like so:





Unfortunately, the head was 1 mm too big, so I had to turn it down. I chucked it in the drill and ran the Dremel with a stone bit in the other direction:





Once down to size, it was time to try it in the control box:




It's about 99% successful. The head of the pin didn't quite end up in the right spot, so the flap is closed a bit before the dial gets all the way to closed. I'll need to make some cable adjustments when we get some dry weather before I reassemble the dash. Sticking my head in the footwell to accomplish this will be a lot easier if I can open the top. Yoga continues to pay dividends on this job.
 

NZ00Z3

Zorg Guru (IV)
Supporter
New Zealand Zeds
Joined
Dec 9, 2014
Points
158
Location
Timaru, New Zealand
Model of Z
3.0L, 2.8L, 2.0L Z3 Roadsters
@hardtop is correct on the fix.

A couple of points to add:
- Root cause is an old rubber seal that sticks to the air blend flap. You need to adjust the bowden cable as per photos above to stop contacting the seal with the flap on fully cold. Add a small zip tie between the bowden calbe end and adjuster to eliminate at future problem if the cable slips in the clamp.
- A 2.0 mm cap screw has a head that fits without grinding, whereas a 2.5 mm caps crew will require grinding.
 

Howard

Zorg Addict
French Zeds
Joined
Nov 17, 2016
Points
64
Location
South West France
Model of Z
3.0i (manual)
Hi, thanks. All the information iv received has definitely helped. Just now need some warmer weather to attack this repair.
-2c here in rural France ..brrr
 

Howard

Zorg Addict
French Zeds
Joined
Nov 17, 2016
Points
64
Location
South West France
Model of Z
3.0i (manual)
Hi, is there some way that I could view the photos that you posted about the heater control fix..I’m trying to view them on an IPad..sorry fir being a pain.

Went to the dealer, and the lever arm was not available except as part of a $200 HVAC control box. Same story at my foreign FLAPS. Screw that. Time to make the old arm work.


First I measured an existing pin, and wrote down the details:





Thence to the hardware store to find a substitute item. Once back home I drilled:





And tapped:





To make a home for this:





Like so:





Unfortunately, the head was 1 mm too big, so I had to turn it down. I chucked it in the drill and ran the Dremel with a stone bit in the other direction:





Once down to size, it was time to try it in the control box:




It's about 99% successful. The head of the pin didn't quite end up in the right spot, so the flap is closed a bit before the dial gets all the way to closed. I'll need to make some cable adjustments when we get some dry weather before I reassemble the dash. Sticking my head in the footwell to accomplish this will be a lot easier if I can open the top. Yoga continues to pay dividends on this job.[/Q
This is the way the guy repaired it.

Went to the dealer, and the lever arm was not available except as part of a $200 HVAC control box. Same story at my foreign FLAPS. Screw that. Time to make the old arm work.


First I measured an existing pin, and wrote down the details:





Thence to the hardware store to find a substitute item. Once back home I drilled:





And tapped:





To make a home for this:





Like so:





Unfortunately, the head was 1 mm too big, so I had to turn it down. I chucked it in the drill and ran the Dremel with a stone bit in the other direction:





Once down to size, it was time to try it in the control box:




It's about 99% successful. The head of the pin didn't quite end up in the right spot, so the flap is closed a bit before the dial gets all the way to closed. I'll need to make some cable adjustments when we get some dry weather before I reassemble the dash. Sticking my head in the footwell to accomplish this will be a lot easier if I can open the top. Yoga continues to pay dividends on this job.[/QUO
[/QUOTE]
This is the way the guy repaired it.

Went to the dealer, and the lever arm was not available except as part of a $200 HVAC control box. Same story at my foreign FLAPS. Screw that. Time to make the old arm work.


First I measured an existing pin, and wrote down the details:





Thence to the hardware store to find a substitute item. Once back home I drilled:





And tapped:





To make a home for this:





Like so:





Unfortunately, the head was 1 mm too big, so I had to turn it down. I chucked it in the drill and ran the Dremel with a stone bit in the other direction:





Once down to size, it was time to try it in the control box:




It's about 99% successful. The head of the pin didn't quite end up in the right spot, so the flap is closed a bit before the dial gets all the way to closed. I'll need to make some cable adjustments when we get some dry weather before I reassemble the dash. Sticking my head in the footwell to accomplish this will be a lot easier if I can open the top. Yoga continues to pay dividends on this job.[/QUOTE
 
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