Gearbox additives - good or not??

[Bartholomewzman]

Hi all, I have just bought a 1998 1.9 and although the car generally looks to be a good one, I do notice that the gear change is rather 'notchy'. Just how 'normal' that may be I just don;t know, but not yet tried pumping the clutch before selecting a gear to see if that may make any difference, AND also don't know just how long since the oil in the box was changed. So for a precautionary change - - the basic query is: what perhaps more modern oil is now recommended , and do additives work well in making changes slicker?
Over to you folks, Richard

 

[t-tony]

These cars came from the factory with what BMW called "Filled for life" stickers on their gearboxes and Diffs. Personally I would just change the oil for standard recommended oil. Contact OPIE OILS, they will post you the correct grade for the job. If you don't have anywhere to do it yourself a trip up to me near Lincoln would see it done.

Tony.

 

[Mus Musculus]

I also have a 1998 1.9, and it took some time for me to get used to the biting point on mine (which I find fairly low). Once I got used to it and started pressing the clutch pedal further down, I kind of found the ideal point and the gear changing is quite smooth now.

 

[colb]

Be aware some models use ATF in the gearbox, a label on the gearbox would tell you what it uses but no doubt the label is long gone.
MY 1998/9 1.9 uses ATF. If you have a handbook it should list its requirements in there. Opie Oils will also tell you what spec it needs.

 

[Bartholomewzman]

Many thanks for that - I will definately try that. Richard (ps: I was mainly considering the oil change as the car has done 12k and that seems to my mind a long, long time ciculating with the accumulating inevitable fine metal particles!)

I also have a 1998 1.9, and it took some time for me to get used to the biting point on mine (which I find fairly low). Once I got used to it and started pressing the clutch pedal further down, I kind of found the ideal point and the gear changing is quite smooth now.

 

[Bartholomewzman]

Thanks Tony. I have two drive on ramps, and am used to working underneath cars, so unless I find that there is some special awkwardness with the 'Z' I should be ok! This weekend will see available time to the start of a decent inspection to see exactly what I've bought!!

These cars came from the factory with what BMW called "Filled for life" stickers on their gearboxes and Diffs. Personally I would just change the oil for standard recommended oil. Contact OPIE OILS, they will post you the correct grade for the job. If you don't have anywhere to do it yourself a trip up to me near Lincoln would see it done.

Tony.

 

[Bartholomewzman]

Thanks Colb, I was mainly considering the oil change as the car has done 12k and that seems to my mind a long, long time ciculating with the accumulating inevitable fine metal particles! I used to use a varietry of additives to old British cars that I've had, and overall reckoned that they did seem to make a difference.
Richard
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Be aware some models use ATF in the gearbox, a label on the gearbox would tell you what it uses but no doubt the label is long gone.
MY 1998/9 1.9 uses ATF. If you have a handbook it should list its requirements in there. Opie Oils will also tell you what spec it needs.

 

[t-tony]

12K or 120K? Don't forget to loosen, or better still remove the fill/level.plug before draining the old oil. You can refill using a short length of garden hose and a small funnel fed down from under the bonnet. Same with the Diff. from one of the rear wheel arches. Give the car a good run to warm the oil before draining it.

Tony.

ps. Sorry if you're aware of all of this. Not trying to tell you how to suck eggs.

 

[Bartholomewzman]

Hi Tony,. No, I never ignore any hints and tips! Have filled a lot of gearboxes over the past 50 years, but there are always tips that can be useful!! Richard

12K or 120K? Don't forget to loosen, or better still remove the fill/level.plug before draining the old oil. You can refill using a short length of garden hose and a small funnel fed down from under the bonnet. Same with the Diff. from one of the rear wheel arches. Give the car a good run to warm the oil before draining it.

Tony.

ps. Sorry if you're aware of all of this. Not trying to tell you how to suck eggs.

 

[Mario]

I have had a few zeds and on the ones that I had this issue Redline D4 ATf worked

 

[Zephyr]

Maybe ordering a new bottom plug bolt would also be a nice move and keep in mind that it does not go in all the way. Better torque that to spec just to be sure.

 

[Bartholomewzman]

Thanks for the suggestion

I have had a few zeds and on the ones that I had this issue Redline D4 ATf worked

 

[Bartholomewzman]

That's something I have not yet come across - not all the way in? I will be aware of that then, R.

Maybe ordering a new bottom plug bolt would also be a nice move and keep in mind that it does not go in all the way. Better torque that to spec just to be sure.

 

[Bartholomewzman]

Another query occurs to me - is it worth getting one of the Haynes BMW 3-series Manuals? Is there a worthwhile 'overlap' with other mechanical parts between the vehicles as regards General Repairs/Servicing??
R.

Hi Tony,. No, I never ignore any hints and tips! Have filled a lot of gearboxes over the past 50 years, but there are always tips that can be useful!! Richard

 

[t-tony]

That's something I have not yet come across - not all the way in? I will be aware of that then, R.

It is a tapered plug. It doesn't have flat face where you would put a sealing washer. Back when these things were made it was very common to see tapered plugs. In more than 55 years in the motor trade I have never seen one stripped or casing split through over tightening and never needed to use a torque Wrench on one either.

Tony.

 

[Zephyr]

It is a tapered plug. It doesn't have flat face where you would put a sealing washer. Back when these things were made it was very common to see tapered plugs. In more than 55 years in the motor trade I have never seen one stripped or casing split through over tightening and never needed to use a torque Wrench on one either.

Tony.

But you have seen one not tightened.
Mine.

that wasn't torqued to spec and I added a 10nm extra.

 

[t-tony]

I don’t see any PTFE tape on it either. Why is it not tight? We’re you scared of hurting something?

Tony.

 

[Zephyr]

No, as you probably don't remember by that old post I did, the job was done by a “professional” who had absolutely no idea of what he was doing. So the Z had a leak.
I tightened it but still there was some signs of moist even then, so I changed the plug with a new one and it was dry until the day I sold it.
And from experience out of this incident the torque spec from BMW is lesser than a “screw it till no more” probably to let it expand on extreme heat or so… I am not an expert nor claim to be, just doing it by the book (because I know nothing about it).
But if you say it is good to be tightened without a torque wrench, I have to agree since the true source of knowledge is experience. And nobody doubts yours!

 

[Bartholomewzman]

Right! I will be extra careful when doing that job. Who do you maybe rercommend for buying spares(like a new plug) from? R.

 

[colb]

Taperd fill plug and drain on the gearbox hence no crush washers but if you have a Z4 and do an oil change on the Diff have a couple of copper crush washers to hand, oem washers are alloy. When I change my diff oil the oem alloy washers had turned to lace so I used copper replacements. The old oil when drained was still a nice golden colour and no sparkles in it. Still worth doing so I know what was in there going forward. Looking at oem parts site for my 1.9 Z3 it shows diff filler and drain plugs with O rings, can't remember if I replaced those when I change the diff oil on mine, its a good few years ago when I did that one.