Front brake line replacement

[Steve Medlock]

I replaced my rear brake lines and hoses when I did the sub-frame a while ago and would now like to do the front lines as one was an advisory on the last MOT.

The nearside line is quite short and looks straight forward but the offside looks to take quite a tortuous route behind the engine under the brake vacuum pipe. Looks like it might be difficult to get the old one out in one piece and the new one in...

Has anyone replaced this brake line please?

Steve.

 

[t-tony]

Probably one of the first things to go on the shell when they started a build Steve. There is nothing wrong with removing it in 2 pieces and fitting a joining sleeve. Would simplify the job no end. I can send you a joiner if you would like.

Tony.

 

[mrscalex]

I've just done all the rigid lines on my 3.0. The nearside front would be difficult as it runs across the bulkhead. The offside front is next to impossible due to the complex bend arrangements you've already seen. I agree with Tony - they must have been first on when the engine bay was built out.

It hurt my pride putting something back other than how it left the factory. But I had to join the nearside inside the engine bay. And the offside inside the wheel arch but hidden by the liner.

The rear lines also went on in sections although if I was doing it again I might just manage the nearside in one run. Certainly if I bent as I went off the reel. But I like all the original bends in the right place so they were made up off the car.

 

[Steve Medlock]

Thanks Tony & Rob. You've convinced me. Its only corroded in the wheel arch so i'll look for a convenient place to make a join. Yes please to the joiner Tony if you are offering - Thank you.

My rear lines went back in one piece but they're probably different to the 3.0

 

[mrscalex]

Thanks Tony & Rob. You've convinced me. Its only corroded in the wheel arch so i'll look for a convenient place to make a join. Yes please to the joiner Tony if you are offering - Thank you.

My rear lines went back in one piece but they're probably different to the 3.0View attachment 104221

That’s a good achievement on the rear. Did you have the rear axle dropped when you did it though?

Btw I make my brake lines just like you by strapping together to get the accuracy. But I find cable ties are much quicker to use.

 

[t-tony]

Two ways of joining the pipe Steve.
1.
Use a male and a female union to make the join (very commonly used on vehicles these days) you just need a male union threaded to the end.

2.
Use a double ended female union and 2 male unions.

The second option is not as compact so if you're working in a tight space the 1st. one is the better option.
I can let you have either, just PM me your address Steve.

Tony.

 

[mrscalex]

I used the 2 male joiner. Simply because that’s what BMW used in the factory for my rear lines.

 

[Andyboy]

Get yourself a Draper hand held flaring tool, and cut the pipe back to clean metal with a pipe cutter. I do this on E36's where the pipe goes behind the arch liner and join the new pipe there. I've never seen a pipe rust in the engine bay.

 

[mrscalex]

 

[Steve Medlock]

That’s a good achievement on the rear. Did you have the rear axle dropped when you did it though?

Btw I make my brake lines just like you by strapping together to get the accuracy. But I find cable ties are much quicker to use.

Yes, while the sub-frame was dropped - obviously makes it much easier. Just wish I'd done the tank straps too....

 

[colb]

What size were the pipe and fittings you used, might be worth getting some ready when mine need some attention.

 

[Steve Medlock]

What size were the pipe and fittings you used, might be worth getting some ready when mine need some attention.

its standard 3/16 pipe. The fittings are a mixture of M10 & M12 depending on side of the car.

 

[Steve Medlock]

View attachment 104389 View attachment 104387

Excellent, yes That seems to be the best place for a join. There's absolutely no place accessible in the engine bay.

 

[mrscalex]

Excellent, yes That seems to be the best place for a join. There's absolutely no place accessible in the engine bay.
View attachment 104683

I agree - no chance in the engine bay. And you don’t want to go much further into the rear of the wheel arch either because of getting the flaring tool in. The liner then covers the join.

 

[Steve Medlock]

Two ways of joining the pipe Steve.
1.
Use a male and a female union to make the join (very commonly used on vehicles these days) you just need a male union threaded to the end.
View attachment 104273

2.
Use a double ended female union and 2 male unions.
View attachment 104271
The second option is not as compact so if you're working in a tight space the 1st. one is the better option.
I can let you have either, just PM me your address Steve.

Tony.

Thanks Tony - I've had to order a new flaring tool as I couldn't get on with the Sealey one that I had and so I added some joiners to the order. Many thanks for the offer though.
Steve

 

[t-tony]

Thanks Tony - I've had to order a new flaring tool as I couldn't get on with the Sealey one that I had and so I added some joiners to the order. Many thanks for the offer though.
Steve

Anytime Steve.

Tony.

 

[Steve Medlock]

All seemed to go well.

 

[t-tony]

Looks spot on Steve.

Tony.

 

[Steve Medlock]

Until I went to bleed it through and found that I had the wrong size bleed screws....

Real OEM said M8 x 1.25 but the calipers have M7 x 1.0 so I've had to re-use the old ones for now. I know the front calipers aren't the originals.

 

[mrscalex]

I’ve got a feeling I’ve ordered the wrong size before from going by realoem.