Engine and gearbox mounts

[Dino D]

Thinking that since every rubber bush has been replaced under my car why ahould the engine and transmission mounts be left out..

Any one done them?
how hard/easy is it do?
Did you go OEM or something uprated?

What are the telltale signs they are in need if changing - inconsistent gearshift, vibrations from engines, knock bangs, viscous fan kissing radiator?

How can you check these items?
One US site, I think Turners says the engine mounts are service items as the BMW one are fluid filled and leak over time so should be done every 60miles.

 

[Stormy_be]

I've checked the engine installation yesterday a little bit. (As I am thinking of removing it to properly install my fire extinguishing system)
It is mounted on the subframe, so removal would be easiest when dropping the engine&gearbox on the subframe.
Then change the bushings, then putting it back in from the bottom.

For doing so, you should be using a lift....you might be able to do it without a lift, but it would be one hell of a job.

Regards, Koen

 

[Dino D]

What about just raising the engine a bit for clearance to swap out the mounts?

Maybe it's something I'd try at home though it's seem plenty do on the e36 3 series.

These vibratechnic mounts look like just the thing for a track car:
http://www.vibra-technics.co.uk/bmw/z3

Apparently fail safe, look amazingly engineered.

 

[Stormy_be]

Personally, the engine and gearbox mounts are not my biggest problems.
I don't want to go aluminium on them.
I believe an engine has to be able to vibrate. Yes, it might have some impact on a little loss of power (1-2 bhp?)...i couldn't care any less.
If I want more power, I will put in an 3.2M. But for the slalom events I'm planning the 2.8 has plenty of that already.....I'm competing against Ford Escorts MK1, with a pinto engine...producing 100-150bhp.

The driveshaft is for me the changing point. Everything before the driveshaft can flex a little more. Everything after the driveshaft I like to have it under more control.

Maybe it is possible to carry the motor up for a couple of cm, just enough to change the mount....but I would still prefer to drop the whole thing.
Maybe it would take more time, but it would include less cursing

And again, maybe it's just me as I like to do things thoroughly, dropping the engine would allow me to give the rest a check-over in one go.

Regards, Koen

 

[Dino D]

For me it's not about extra power but responsiveness and general freshening up.

What got me thinking about it a recent misfire I had (loose spark plug) caused the engine run a bit rough. This was felt in the steering when turning (more so when turning left) and at certain rpm.
Now the engine is smooth the vibration is gone (well almost the engine is still not quite as smooth as usual so need to change all plugs etc).

This got me thinking that as I now have fresh and stiffer suspension then the rest of damped parts can be refreshed to bring it line. Given the age of the car it won't surprise me if they are past best.
For a road car fresh OEM is probably ok (maybe upgrade to the M parts if they are more performance oriented).
And of course is be interested inany improvement to gearshift that the gearbox mount could bring. Not sure there is much to improve as with my new Poweflex diff mount and rear beam the gear shifts are better than ever but who knows...

 

[Dino D]

Came accross this interesting thread on engine mounts and changing them with engine in place using jacks.
The cross member on this car has actually been damage (3.0l).
In the US they sell reinforcement kits for the this:

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...at-the-inside-of-your-motor-mount-looked-like

 

[Lee]

I changed mine. Didn't take long.

Supported the engine using a jack and changed one side at a time.

The gearbox mounts are the easiest to change. About 10mins once your under.

Lee

 

[Stormy_be]

I changed mine. Didn't take long.

Supported the engine using a jack and changed one side at a time.

The gearbox mounts are the easiest to change. About 10mins once your under.

Lee

I missed that write-up......

 

[Dino D]

I changed mine. Didn't take long.

Supported the engine using a jack and changed one side at a time.

The gearbox mounts are the easiest to change. About 10mins once your under.

Lee

What were the old one like Lee?
Could you feel any difference with the new?

 

[Lee]

The gearbox mounts were very soft showing lots of splits. Same with the engine mounts. I couldn't flex them by hand but still looked worn.

You can feel a difference but I suppose that's down to if they are bad or not. Slightly less notched gear change. Power delivery ever so slightly more instant.

Lee

 

[GazHyde]

What did you replace them with Lee, OE or uprated mounts?

 

[Lee]

What did you replace them with Lee, OE or uprated mounts?

OE quality, again they have lasted 17 years so far so why change them.

 

[Stormy_be]

OE quality, again they have lasted 17 years so far so why change them.

Why? Because you aren't an OEM type of driver either

 

[Lee]

Why? Because you aren't an OEM type of driver either

This is true I only replaced them as a preventative measure because I drive the car to its full.