Eccentric / offset front control arm bushes

[Dino D]

I already have power flex purple bushes (I think they are the centred ones).
It looks like it’ll need new control arms and drop links (small amount of play starting in ball joints).

I recall various chat about the offset control arm bushes Z3M style available from poly manufacturers- I believe when installed correctly they induce some extra caster and more camber?

Can anyone enlighten me on their experience?

I’m sure it was the lovely bright green Z in NI that had this done but I can’t seem to find the thread.

 

[Antm72]

I think your right Dino, i know @Aaron MacQ has them fitted i'm sure he will enlighten

 

[NZ00Z3]

I've had experience with eccentric control arm bushings on a standard Z3. In short don't do it, you'll end up with bump steering from too much caster. Its dam right dangerous with the fast steering rack that we have on the Z3's.

I now use Z3M rubber centered control arm bushings.

 

[Mnbrennan]

I've had experience with eccentric control arm bushings on a standard Z3. In short don't do it, you'll end up with bump steering from too much caster. Its dam right dangerous with the fast steering rack that we have on the Z3's.

I now use Z3M rubber centered control arm bushings.

Are yours 1.9s? I believe the 1.9 has a faster rack than the 6 cylinders IIRC

 

[mwpe]

[QUOTE="s).
It looks like it’ll need new control arms and drop links (small amount of play starting in ball joints).
[/QUOTE]

The ball joints are easily replaceable, much cheaper than new control arms.

 

[Dino D]

[QUOTE="s).
It looks like it’ll need new control arms and drop links (small amount of play starting in ball joints).

The ball joints are easily replaceable, much cheaper than new control arms.[/QUOTE]
I didn’t wonder about that, it would be the local garage doing it so if they have a press should be quick to press kit/in (otherwise paying for time..)

 

[Dino D]

I've had experience with eccentric control arm bushings on a standard Z3. In short don't do it, you'll end up with bump steering from too much caster. Its dam right dangerous with the fast steering rack that we have on the Z3's.

I now use Z3M rubber centered control arm bushings.

My car is not on standard suspension and has adjustable camber mounts so so can address too much camber if an issue.
I thought the caster increase was to make it more stable (but heavier steering).

I wonder if the change in toe is what made it unpleasant on your Car?

 

[NZ00Z3]

Are yours 1.9s? I believe the 1.9 has a faster rack than the 6 cylinders IIRC

All Non M Z3's have the fast rack. The Z3M's use the standard E36 rack which is slower.

My car is not on standard suspension and has adjustable camber mounts so so can address too much camber if an issue.
I thought the caster increase was to make it more stable (but heavier steering).

I wonder if the change in toe is what made it unpleasant on your Car?

The car came with the eccentric bushings fitted, it got wheel aligned as part of sorting out the problem but it still had bump steering. Fitted centered bushings and a wheel alignment fixed the problem.

By all means fit them and give them a go, just passing on my experiences as requested.

 

[Synclare]

I fitted Meyle heavy duty ball joints two and half years ago, last mot in December they advised slight play in one of them - a bit brassed off as just out of the two year warranty Mind you I'd done 22,000 miles in the last year alone!

[QUOTE="mwpe

The ball joints are easily replaceable, much cheaper than new control arms.[/QUOTE]

 

[mwpe]

The ball joints are easily replaceable, much cheaper than new control arms.

I didn’t wonder about that, it would be the local garage doing it so if they have a press should be quick to press kit/in (otherwise paying for time..)[/QUOTE]

Easy DIY job with this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B011KKJ2LG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Dino D]

I fitted Meyle heavy duty ball joints two and half years ago, last mot in December they advised slight play in one of them - a bit brassed off as just out of the two year warranty Mind you I'd done 22,000 miles in the last year alone!

[QUOTE="mwpe

The ball joints are easily replaceable, much cheaper than new control arms.

[/QUOTE]
Passenger side one shot?

 

[Mnbrennan]

All Non M Z3's have the fast rack. The Z3M's use the standard E36 rack which is slower.

I stand corrected .

Do they fit into the M? We have one in the shed

 

[NZ00Z3]

Do they fit into the M? We have one in the shed

The eccentric bushings do fit a few early Z3M's but they also have slightly different control arms. The Z3M's already have more caster in there design as they have a completely different spindle and strut setup. I don't know if there is any benefit or issues if you fit them to a later Z3M.

 

[Mnbrennan]

The eccentric bushings do fit a few early Z3M's but they also have slightly different control arms. The Z3M's already have more caster in there design as they have a completely different spindle and strut setup. I don't know if there is any benefit or issues if you fit them to a later Z3M.

Sorry, I was referring to the rack

 

[NZ00Z3]

You'll have to check the part numbers on the Rack and run them through RealOEM to check compatibility, but in general, yes it'll fit with Z3 tie rods.

 

[elky]

I'm a bit late on this, but I am currently reaching that point as my passenger side LCA bushing is starting to be wobbly, "wondering/streamlining." I'm also planning a bit more aggressive track day-friendly setup for next summer.

As this thread did not conclude on a verdict on eccentric/offset bushings, does anyone have any experience driving them? Do they, in fact, make the non-m Z3 dangerous and too twitchy?

 

[Dino D]

I went with standard non Z3M in but power flex purple.
For track driving I had 2,5 degrees front camber dialled in which feels great on track.
Probably a bit more nervous on our bumpy roads but it’s been that way for 4yrs now so don’t really remember it any other way!
I’m sure Danish roads are better…

Should add I already have BC racing coil overs with camber adjustable plates and can’t say I find the steering slow.
The rear bushes (beam) have made the biggest difference in making the car planted and predictable.

How many track days do you plan and are your tracks long with lots of time for breaks to cool or tight with short straights (making for lots of fun but hot brakes!)

 

[elky]

I went with standard non Z3M in but power flex purple.
For track driving I had 2,5 degrees front camber dialled in which feels great on track.
Probably a bit more nervous on our bumpy roads but it’s been that way for 4yrs now so don’t really remember it any other way!
I’m sure Danish roads are better…

Should add I already have BC racing coil overs with camber adjustable plates and can’t say I find the steering slow.
The rear bushes (beam) have made the biggest difference in making the car planted and predictable.

How many track days do you plan and are your tracks long with lots of time for breaks to cool or tight with short straights (making for lots of fun but hot brakes!)

Hey thanks for replying as I was trying to hear from someone with XP! Glad to hear the centered powerflex purple do their job on track and can still be driven on roads, because I was going crazy with all the options from Garagistic etc.

As you say, I know the beam bushings are the biggest difference but as I am doing the jobs myself and it sounds like a beast, so I am starting from the easy handling upgrades... and before I dive into the adjustability like your nice setup I want to refresh my bushings...

The two tracks we have nearby that are actually nice is Jyllandsringen (Denmark) and Sturup (Sweden). I've already driven on the one in Denmark and there is only one straight around 350m. The one in Sweden seems to have shorter straights but 4 of them... I haven't really though of how many trackdays I will be doing because the Danish tracks are also quite expensive at around 290£...