E89- Buying advice please

bombur

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Hi All, I will be starting to look for an E89 from start of the year and just asking here for some buying advice. I am quite impulsive and will have to be patient this time. As an example I bought my Zed without any research or looking further than than 10 miles away lol...was lucky as its still going well.
I dont really want to be travelling round the country only to turn my back on one so I need to be picky.
My budget is under 10k- prefer 8k ish, so appreciate it will have some mileage on it. Am looking for a decent sized engine, black or silver, maybe blue. Decent spec with heated seats.

So you good knowledgeable people on here- what is it I need to look out for? Any years/models to avoid? Anything else that will help me?

Cheers
Paul
 

TaffDaddy

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Hi Paul,

I bought a 23i recently and am really pleased with it. I bought it from an enthusiast from www.z4-forum.com as my they tend to be well looked after. I paid £9250 for it with 71k and nearly full service history, so you should get a good one with reasonable miles for £10k. I was looking for a 3.0 but going from a Z3 2.2 the 23i was a good jump in power.

The obvious thing to look out for is that the roof works smoothly and doesn't leak so a route around the boot and check the interior carpets. Also the roof relays are prone to failure so if they haven't already been changed get them done.

@Nodzed and @t-tony may have more pointers as they've had theirs much longer than I have and have done quite a bit of work on them.

Good luck with your search.

David
 

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t-tony

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Mine is a 23i too, enjoying every minute.

Tony.
 

bombur

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Thanks @t-tony. After the Z3 the E89 is most beautiful car of its type IMHO. Im obviously going to be looking at an older one- are some versions more prone to issues than others do you know? Im a bit worried about all the tech also and its longevity
 

Nodzed

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@bombur Hi I will try to help as far as I can and sorry if this is a Granny and eggs post :whistle:

As with David and Tony I also have the 23i with the 2.5 ltr 6 cylinder carried over from the e85, that I purchased from BMW in 2019 as a 1 owner 50k car, its now done 72k with no non maintenance issues, its quick enough but to get the very best out of it you have to get the revs up, it starts to really come alive post 3500/4000 RPM

If you opt for the 20i or 28i then these are 4 pot 2 ltrs turbo's, I would say the 28i is the one to go for as its higher BHP. I test drove an auto 20i and it was a bit sluggish tbh. Doing some research I concluded some were having turbo issues so I opted to steer clear, but that was my own conclusion and I suspect many 4 pots have been just fine.
If you are into performance tuning then the 23i is not the one as you gain next to nothing, but the 4 pots as I understand can be tuned to much higher BHPs (maybe this is where the turbo issues come from?) The daddy is of course the 35is, but you will need deep pockets for a good one, if you can find one. I dont really have any info on the 3.0 ltrs as I never considered one.

If you are opting for an active suspension car then check the struts, they fail, and some at low mileage. They are I believe somewhere in the region of £1.200 to £1,400 a corner to replace. :oops:

As said by others check and then check again several times that the roof is working correctly, no stalls or juddering. Check the boot area for water ingress especially around the battery, (this is where the roof pump and relays are located) earlier cars leaked through the rear lights an issue that was rectified on later cars, the later rear lights can be fitted but are approx £500 each new.

Check all four corners of the roof, some are prone to rust bubbles, my had the start of this but was repaired by BMW under the paint warranty.

The options list on e89s was long, but what owners added is very varied so think about what you want, from my searches for one and others I have seen not many e89s came with everything. Cruise Control is rare as it was a really expensive option, but it can be added, I had it done by a forum member and I believe Tony has too.

As said mine has done 72k and I have wheel bearing issues, I've changed the front and they were definitely on their way, rears next as one is definitely starting to make a slight rumble.
Gearboxes can whine as can diffs, no different to other BMWs, just worth checking, if you hear anything just try to determine if its bad or acceptable, test drive with the roof up as well as down as this will make any issues more obvious.

Air con pump bearings can rumble so that's worth checking.

The larger wheel sizes are very prone to cracking and its a big issue for a lot of owners. If you buy a car with run flats my advice is remove them, they make the ride horrible and many believe add to the wheel cracking issues. I have 17" wheels and they don't seem to be an issue.

To sum up;
Having done many long Euro trips in a Z3M and the e89, for comfort I would go with the e89 every time, hence I still have it and not the M. As for driving experience / pleasure the Z3 is much more fun, the Z4 feels very modern by comparison as is to be expected and not to everyone's taste. I have had no issues with the car to be fair and other than preventative maintenance, servicing and some preference items such as up-rated suspension, exhaust etc the car has been trouble and cost free and has never let me down. (YET)

As with any car service history is more important than mileage, the more electronic gizmos fitted will most likely lead to more future problems. If you can find one at BMW for the right money its worth considering that route as you will get 12 mths full BMW warranty, but you are probably more likely to find a good car privately from an enthusiast owner.

Fuel consumption is good, I drive mine relatively hard on occasions and use as much of the RPMs as I can :whistle:and it returns 34 to 36 mpg per tank most fill ups, 30mpg at worst, on a run to Italy and back over the Grand Ballon and Swiss/Italian Alps it returned 42mpg for the whole trip.

As you are not far from me then feel free to come to Zedshed West for a chat.

If you find a car reasonably local I am happy to come along for some support if you think that would be helpful.

Hope this helps
Niall :thumbsup:
 
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bombur

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Thank you so much @Nodzed for spending the time to put your thoughts on here- very much appreciated. It will really help me as a starting guide and to consider my options. I want as little electric gizmos as possible and wont be a daily so not interested in cruise control. AC and heated seats are on my want list and thats about it.
I did read somewhere about the turbos- might have been from you before on here. Probably looking at my budget its the first ones I would be looking at which dont have turbos? Thanks again and HNY!
 

RickyBobby

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I've had 3 E89's - a 2009 23i, a 2014 20i and a 2010 23i.
The 2009 had a leak in the boot that needed sorting and both the 2009 & 2010 had to have a new AC compressor before I bought them.
At your budget you will be looking at a pre-facelift car and likely the 23i 2.5 litre engine but you might get lucky with a 30i at or around 10k.
The pre-facelift cars had a tendancy to suffer corrosion on the roof panel in the corners - apparently the pa el is aluminium but can react with the paint so it looks like a rust trail. I had this on my 2009 and got it sorted by Sytner but the anti-corrosion warranty is only valid for 12 years - I just scraped in on mine so make sure you ask the seller to check if you are looking to do a deal remotely.
The other area to check is the rear lights which can crack and cause water ingress - if it's been an issue for a while you can see it via the mold that will likely have formed in the light cluster but otherwise it might be hard to see. It's a common fault so I'd ask the question and determine if the unit's have been replaced previously. The boot is very heavy and if the soft close mechanism isn't used and it's slammed down like you would with a Z3 or E85 it really coms down with some force - if I'm viewing an E89 I try and make a point of watching how the owner closes the boot.
The hinges on the panel in the boot that needs closing to open the roof always fail on the pre-facelift cars. On the facelift cars they fitted a net that reduces the speed the panel opens and closes to solve it. Its a relative easy fix with lot's of 3D printed hinges available but worth checking. Most will have already had them repaired.
Biggest area to check is under the boot floor - the issue is that the roof motor is wrapped in a sponge like material that is very absorbent. So you need to do more than visually inspect the space - ask the seller to get their hand under the sponge to determine if there is standing water or water in the sponge.
The interior leather is pretty hard wesring on the E89's but still worth checking the drivers seat bolster - unlike the Z3 only the twin turbo models will have electric seats due to it being a £950 upgrade.
Everyone I've owned had had a problem with the armrest hinge and its a nightmare to sort out requiring a whole new unit - so make sure you check that functions as it should. Also worth getting one with the storage compartment option which will give you cup holders under the armrest and extra storage under the dash nearby your right knee.
In terms of other nice to haves I'd look for one with fold-in outside mirrors - there will be an additional button on the drivers door armrest next to the button to adjust the mirrors which they all have. The upgraded stereo is also nice and if fitted the car will have additional speakers behind both seats.
The professional navigation is a nice to have but personally not essential as most of the info it displays can be obtained via the normal dash - if it has the nav it will have a dial next to the handbrake and obviously the pop up screen. Without it the dial are is just storage as is the area where the screen would be.
Final point to check is the wheels & tyres - you definitely want to get one without runflats. Most will have had them removed but again ask the question - some sellers still think they are a positive. Most car's will have undoubtedly been on runflats at some point and depending on the wheels this will likely ha e caused cracking to the inner wheel rims. You can sometimes find confirmation of this on previous MOT's but ask the question. The wheel styles that suffer the most are the 296’s & the 326's.
 

bombur

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Again thank you @RickyBobby for spending the time to write this, really appreciate it. This is going to really help me narrow down a car and be less impulsive as there seems quite a few things to make sure are ok and to check. On my Zed which was under a couple of grand I didnt care and just wanted it to last the Summer...this is different.
 

Andyboy

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I'd be slightly wary of an N20 four cylinder car tbh. They were great when new and the 28i can really get a move on (good on fuel too) but there are timing chain/oil pump chain issues. The latter is for 12/13 cars mainly and it's a weird whine from the front of the engine.

A precautionary chain swap including the oil pump chain is about a grand and worth doing past 60/70k.

The 20i can't really be safely remapped for more power. It has a much higher compression ratio than the 28i plus cast pistons. Lots of them have gone bang when a piston disintegrates.

The N52 six is a superb engine. A few oil leaks (cam cover gasket, oil filter housing mainly) plus the alternator belt tensioner can wear at a funny angle, firing the belt off. A £50 part and easy to replace. They're a much better bet than the N20.
 

bombur

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I'd be slightly wary of an N20 four cylinder car tbh. They were great when new and the 28i can really get a move on (good on fuel too) but there are timing chain/oil pump chain issues. The latter is for 12/13 cars mainly and it's a weird whine from the front of the engine.

A precautionary chain swap including the oil pump chain is about a grand and worth doing past 60/70k.

The 20i can't really be safely remapped for more power. It has a much higher compression ratio than the 28i plus cast pistons. Lots of them have gone bang when a piston disintegrates.

The N52 six is a superb engine. A few oil leaks (cam cover gasket, oil filter housing mainly) plus the alternator belt tensioner can wear at a funny angle, firing the belt off. A £50 part and easy to replace. They're a much better bet than the N20.
Thanks, Im deffo going for a 6 pot, thats if I can find the right one!
 

bombur

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After a conversation last night, looks like my plans have slightly changed. Will be looking for a 3.0 and have a few grand more but cant be in next month or so...so good to have some time researching
 

GZed

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After a conversation last night, looks like my plans have slightly changed. Will be looking for a 3.0 and have a few grand more but cant be in next month or so...so good to have some time researching
Whenever I’ve had “a conversation” it’s never ended up with me being allowed to spend an extra £2k on a car!!
 

bombur

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Whenever I’ve had “a conversation” it’s never ended up with me being allowed to spend an extra £2k on a car!!
Haha, it was similar to - YOU AREN'T BUYING ONE NOW.....bit less polite....but during conversation 13k was no different to 10k for a better one- so thats where Im going lol
 

bombur

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I was searching for something and this thread popped up. Ended up having less budget =))
 
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