Do I replace the "Doom Loom"? Or patch it up?

Duncodin

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Just traced the duff central locking in the boot to a couple of wires where the loom flexes/crosses the gap between between body and bootlid.

The rubber tube was a little frayed in the middle but my breaks were nowhere near the frayed part of the tube. They were quite up close to the bootlid grommet.

I can easily fix the broken cables but does anyone have any suggestions how to rebuild/replace that rubber grommet tube that the wires run through.

As a bodge I could wrap the wiring in self-amalgamating tape but not sure how long that would last.

I could maybe cut all the wires and slide a flexi tube over?

I could cannibalize that part of the loom from another car? (but an old car being broken might well have the same fault "looming")

Or is their a proper way to do it using original parts?

Please send all suggestions written on the back of a £10 note :)
 

GazHyde

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There are various repair kits available for this or a new boot loom from BMW. I broke the VIN number for my old 2.2i on realoem.com and came up with PN 61108385924 (realoem suggests it's a one fits all part) and putting that in to eBay came up with a lot of results, not particularly cheap but it's something to consider. Just checked lllparts.co.uk and they are after £178 for a genuine one.

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Duncodin

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Thank you.

Found one on amazon £45. Even that seems a bit steep but when I consider it has all the proper wire thicknesses and all ready to crimp in then it kind of makes sense to pay that rather than doing a cheap bodge.
 

AntStark

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Looks like it would get caught in the boot seal. Any Indy Fiat 500 specialist would be well versed in doing this kind of boot wiring repair..the Fiat ones failed after just a couple of years. Try to get silicon insulated cables too.
 
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colb

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Solder joint repair depends on the state of the copper strands, if they are well green and crusty or dark in appearance soldering will be a problem, you need bright copper to get good joints. Have seen some really bad wires in this loom, managed to solder repair the worst one I have seen but it was difficult to get good solder flow on the wires. The replacement loom posted above would be the easiest to splice in despite the cost. I would certainly reroute the loom as per the picture posted, don't think its going to get trapped in the seal, looks like its got clearance to avoid that happening. If you do repair the breaks slide some split conduit over it to protect the joints and heat shrink the individual cables when soldering the joints.
 

Mike Fishwick

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BMW used to list a repair section and connectors for this problem - it may be worth checking on current availability and price.
 

Duncodin

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BMW used to list a repair section and connectors for this problem - it may be worth checking on current availability and price.
Thanks. I'll give the dealer a ring.

I have ordered one from amazon. Supposedly shipped by amazon but the order seems to be stuck. Maybe no longer available?

In any case I must confess that I don't like the look of the "alternative route" mentioned above. I'd rather use the original holes. I'm sure the grommets can be aligned in a way that avoids a sharp kink in harness.
 

Duncodin

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On a slightly different topic - anyone know if front door actuators are available from any UK suppliers? What's the cost of original parts from bmw?

I'm sure spurs fan will have some in his shed - waiting for him to get back to me - but thought if new ones are decent priced I'd go for those.
 
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