DIY E85 Illuminated Wind Deflector [WIP]

[IAmOrion]

So whilst I'm currently waiting for some ABS filament to arrive so I can continue my double din quest and test prints, I moved onto the Wind Deflector. After seeing the cost of the material based deflectors including the hoop parts, I looked into perspex deflectors. I saw some really nice ones from an american company but they were just shy of near on £400 inc taxes and shipping :O There were some £95/£100 deflectors on eBay that hold in place via velcro straps too but wasn't impressed. With that, I thought "f**k it - lets give it a go" so I ordered some perspex (I actually ordered 2 size. 1 sheet was 5mm thick which I intend to use for the "final" piece but I also ordered a 3mm thick sheet as my dummy / to-be-template.)

I enlisted the help of my Dad and made some good progress today! Here are the pics so far:

1st up was "templating" with cardboard...

This was fickle as we went back and fourth trimming small amounts at a time!

Time to start some cutting!

Drawing on the next set of cuts

Traced around the headrests / hoops and completed some final cuts

Held some black rubber trim in place to get a sense of what it might look like when complete...

Still more to do yet - Got to draw up the hook fixings to 3D Print, also got to print a base and accommodate for an LED strip etc. Will update progress in the next few days!

 

[Pingu]

If you think that cardboard template was complicated, wait until you see my latest mod (more details soon).

I did the same to make my wind deflector.

 

[buze]

I'm sure you know that, but if you polish the edge nicely enough, you can 'flame clear' them using a small blowtorch. Practice a bit on offcuts, but you will end up with crystal clear edges instead of the opaque ones.

Also, remember you can 'embed' brass screw mounts in acrylic. I use that trick a lot when making enclosures. Just drill a small hole, put the screw mount on the tip of a soldering iron at ~150C, and gently push it in.

Oh, and for /cutting/ acrylic, I prefer the 'sugar' method to the saw, as the saw usual melts the thing and makes a mess. What I call the 'sugar' method is to /score/ both sides of the cut with a tool, very carefully; then 'score' or cut some perpendicular lines toward your scoring, then you whack it to make the cut. Somehow I get much cleaner cuts that way than with a saw...

 

[IAmOrion]

I'm sure you know that, but if you polish the edge nicely enough, you can 'flame clear' them using a small blowtorch. Practice a bit on offcuts, but you will end up with crystal clear edges instead of the opaque ones.

Also, remember you can 'embed' brass screw mounts in acrylic. I use that trick a lot when making enclosures. Just drill a small hole, put the screw mount on the tip of a soldering iron at ~150C, and gently push it in.

Oh, and for /cutting/ acrylic, I prefer the 'sugar' method to the saw, as the saw usual melts the thing and makes a mess. What I call the 'sugar' method is to /score/ both sides of the cut with a tool, very carefully; then 'score' or cut some perpendicular lines toward your scoring, then you whack it to make the cut. Somehow I get much cleaner cuts that way than with a saw...

I may use a rubber trim yet around the edges, I'm still undecided. But don't forget I do intend to illuminate it. The edges need to be rough rather than polished for light refraction. Polished edges are often duller when illuminated.

And yes, I normally use the scoring method too - was just quicker during the templating stage, as the 3mm perspex sheet is the mockup so to speak so not too worried about what it looks like etc, and the odd melted bit makes no difference at this stage

Oh and yes, I know how to embed bits too - been 3D Printing all sorts for over a year so am well versed in melting nuts into plastic parts. I have all manor of sizes of the knurled brass thread for just this kind of thing

 

[David]

@IAmOrion - I'm interested to see/hear how this one turns out too.

I've not seen a deflector that sits so snug to the rear trim; most others have a gap. I wonder if this will decrease or increase the turbulence in the cabin. (The OEM Z4 deflectors aren't as effective as the Z3 ones.)

I've been told that most designs have the gap to improve airflow to stop the turbulence/buffeting.

 

[IAmOrion]

@IAmOrion - I'm interested to see/hear how this one turns out too.

I've not seen a deflector that sits so snug to the rear trim; most others have a gap. I wonder if this will decrease or increase the turbulence in the cabin. (The OEM Z4 deflectors aren't as effective as the Z3 ones.)

I've been told that most designs have the gap to improve airflow to stop the turbulence/buffeting.

I'll soon find out and adjust / trim if required

 

[Cooper]

Just asking, is there any merit in gluing some aluminum foil on the cut edges to add to the reflection being directed inwards, then the trim being applied?

 

[IAmOrion]

Just asking, is there any merit in gluing some aluminum foil on the cut edges to add to the reflection being directed inwards, then the trim being applied?

Funny you should say that actually, I had also wondered the exact same thing!! Only one way to know for sure I'll find out in the next day or so

 

[Brian H]

i find the Z4 cabin a drafty place to be, I cannot help think that some additional bits to the left and right of the hoops as well as some extra height would help with this. Of course the roof would need to still work unaided but I do think it is possible to tweak the design.

 

[IAmOrion]

i find the Z4 cabin a drafty place to be, I cannot help think that some additional bits to the left and right of the hoops as well as some extra height would help with this. Of course the roof would need to still work unaided but I do think it is possible to tweak the design.

Atm I have a very marginal amount of additional coverage but it's tight - the roof get so close - I've got to do some tests to see how much room I have left if inclined to go a bit bigger like you suggest