Cool air under driver seat

[Cooper]

I notice when I am driving along that there seems to be a slight breeze of cold air [it is winter here] from under the driver's seat, even when the heater is on. The components under there are REALLY cold.

Is there some fresh air designed to come in from somewhere? Does anyone have some knowledge on this?

Cheers,

 

[GazHyde]

I'm assuming that's with the roof up?

 

[Cooper]

Correct. IT is only a very slight amount of air movement BTW.

 

[Rudyrov]

Here are my guesses.
Maybe air leaking around shifter and snaking its way around the center console?
My second guess, air leaking from engine compartment / bulkhead or what we call the firewall area, like around the steering column?
Also, if the lower edge of the door seal leaks or is missing?
Just guesses and places to look.

 

[hard top]

Rubber bung missing out of the floor?

 

[Davyhoogy]

I couldn't resist!

 

[Cooper]

Did some trouble shooting. Now I have to research and find out why as the problem is bigger than first imagined. Here are the symptoms:

1. There is a lot of cold air making its way out of every crevice of the center console area, the full length of it.
2. Air blows very well out of the driver's side vent but not so well from the middle vents [weak].
3. The heater is not as hot as it should be and really only works near the very end where it 'clicks' on full.
4. My feet also get chilled even though there is warm air coming from the floor vent - refer point 1.
5. Sometimes there is resistance and a little bit of grabbing [then releasing like it is catching on something] when turning the air vent selection dial.
6. When I select 'footwell area' for the air it also comes out of the windscreen vents strong as well as the foot area.

Kind of seems like the adjustment do-hickies or what-shama-callits are out and need adjusting. but not sure how the system actually works or how it got into this state. My 2.2 worked perfectly. Hmmmmm.

Cooper

 

[DavidM]

Did some trouble shooting. Now I have to research and find out why as the problem is bigger than first imagined. Here are the symptoms:

1. There is a lot of cold air making its way out of every crevice of the center console area, the full length of it.
2. Air blows very well out of the driver's side vent but not so well from the middle vents [weak].
3. The heater is not as hot as it should be and really only works near the very end where it 'clicks' on full.
4. My feet also get chilled even though there is warm air coming from the floor vent - refer point 1.
5. Sometimes there is resistance and a little bit of grabbing [then releasing like it is catching on something] when turning the air vent selection dial.
6. When I select 'footwell area' for the air it also comes out of the windscreen vents strong as well as the foot area.

Kind of seems like the adjustment do-hickies or what-shama-callits are out and need adjusting. but not sure how the system actually works or how it got into this state. My 2.2 worked perfectly. Hmmmmm.

Cooper

Have you left the vacuum cleaner on in the boot?

Sorry - couldn't resist.

 

[5harp3y]

seals on the heater matrix ducting come loose?

 

[Cooper]

seals on the heater matrix ducting come loose?

I will pull stuff apart and have a look - thanks for the suggestion. I do have to spend time doing research as I have never looked closely at things down there.

 

[hard top]

This any use?

Originally Posted by slk23
I think I've solved this problem in my '00 M Coupe. It's not caused by the HVAC control unit (the unit with the temp knob) or the bowden cable that connects it to the blend door arm on the heat box. The problem appears to be caused by the blend door catching on something in the heat box when the door is at, or possibly slightly past, the full cold position.

Fortunately the cable is adjustable at the blend door arm connector. To get at it you have to remove the kick panel (which includes the glove box) and a metal bracket that blocks access to the cable connector. The bracket is held on with three screws (10mm socket and extension needed):

Once you have those pieces removed, move the temp knob to the full hot position so the connector and control arm are in view:

The connector uses spring pressure to grip the cable. Adjust the cable by bracing the connector with a screwdriver while you grip the cable with needle nose pliers and slide it to the right in the connector. Use the screwdriver to avoid putting pressure on the plastic control arm while you move the cable. I moved the cable approx. 1/8", which was just enough to prevent the blend door inside the heat box from sticking. It's a good idea to adjust the cable, move the temp knob to full cold, and then let it sit for 10 minutes or so before testing it by turning up the heat knob. In my car the blend door sticks more if it's had some time resting in the cold position.

 

[Cooper]

Thanks. that is helpful and I will refer to that when I pull everything apart.