Hi all,
I just thought that I’d share a little job that I’ve just done.
As a newbie I’m probably coming up with ideas that have been done many times before but here goes!
My car, a facelift year 2000 came with the grey ignition/door key but only one remote key.
After reading in the Owner’s Handbook about how to initialise a new remote I realised that the remote element of the key wasn’t programmed to the car, this is carried out by the initialising process. It’s the transponder chip which is the unique component.
If your car came with th the grey key but no remote key then this method should allow you to make a remote key by following the initialisation process.
I popped the top off the grey key, it’s just a tight snap fit and found that it contained the same transponder chip as is used in the remote key. The transponder is glued down so prise it off gently.
I bought off eBay a used similar design key, be careful as there are 2 versions, the single battery type is the correct one, there is also a 2 battery one.
Before opening the key I checked out my theory by carrying out the initialisation process on this key and it worked fine, but of course it had the wrong blade and transponder.
Open the donor key and firstly remove the battery, then the button module and membrane, discard the case and transponder chip, don't get it mixed up with yours! Note the position of the transponder for when you reassemble the key.
If you have Isopropyl alchohol (IPA), IPA wipes or De-Solv-it stain remover give the contact area of the membrane and PCB a wipe over, it'll improve the contact of the buttons.
A new case can be bought from eBay for under a fiver and the blade cut by your local locksmith.
The key case I'm using here is my original left over from rebuilding my original key, so I bought just the rubber buttons.I had to cut off a small piece of rubber that would have filled the LED hole?? also a piece that was fouling the transponder, otherwise these seem to be good buttons, got them from China.
Now fit the transponder from the grey key, the original membrane and the PCB. Fit a new battery CR2016, fit the back cover and carry out the initialisation process as described in the handbook. Don't use the new membrane that came with the new case they are not as good as the originals, and viola! you now have another working remote key.
One point with this design of key is that there must be a good connection between the centre of the button membrane and the carbon strip on the circuit board. You will see on the rubber pad, 2 projections which apply pressure to this area. I increased this pressure by sticking a piece of thin plastic to the top of the membrane. When you fit the back of the remote back I like to feel a slight pressure as the screws are fully tightened and the pressure is applied to this area.
Here's the membrane with the extra piece of plastic glued on, this step is of course is optional.
I just thought that I’d share a little job that I’ve just done.
As a newbie I’m probably coming up with ideas that have been done many times before but here goes!
My car, a facelift year 2000 came with the grey ignition/door key but only one remote key.
After reading in the Owner’s Handbook about how to initialise a new remote I realised that the remote element of the key wasn’t programmed to the car, this is carried out by the initialising process. It’s the transponder chip which is the unique component.
If your car came with th the grey key but no remote key then this method should allow you to make a remote key by following the initialisation process.
I popped the top off the grey key, it’s just a tight snap fit and found that it contained the same transponder chip as is used in the remote key. The transponder is glued down so prise it off gently.
I bought off eBay a used similar design key, be careful as there are 2 versions, the single battery type is the correct one, there is also a 2 battery one.
Before opening the key I checked out my theory by carrying out the initialisation process on this key and it worked fine, but of course it had the wrong blade and transponder.
Open the donor key and firstly remove the battery, then the button module and membrane, discard the case and transponder chip, don't get it mixed up with yours! Note the position of the transponder for when you reassemble the key.
If you have Isopropyl alchohol (IPA), IPA wipes or De-Solv-it stain remover give the contact area of the membrane and PCB a wipe over, it'll improve the contact of the buttons.
A new case can be bought from eBay for under a fiver and the blade cut by your local locksmith.
The key case I'm using here is my original left over from rebuilding my original key, so I bought just the rubber buttons.I had to cut off a small piece of rubber that would have filled the LED hole?? also a piece that was fouling the transponder, otherwise these seem to be good buttons, got them from China.
Now fit the transponder from the grey key, the original membrane and the PCB. Fit a new battery CR2016, fit the back cover and carry out the initialisation process as described in the handbook. Don't use the new membrane that came with the new case they are not as good as the originals, and viola! you now have another working remote key.
One point with this design of key is that there must be a good connection between the centre of the button membrane and the carbon strip on the circuit board. You will see on the rubber pad, 2 projections which apply pressure to this area. I increased this pressure by sticking a piece of thin plastic to the top of the membrane. When you fit the back of the remote back I like to feel a slight pressure as the screws are fully tightened and the pressure is applied to this area.
Here's the membrane with the extra piece of plastic glued on, this step is of course is optional.
Last edited: