DirtyDogZ3
Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2017
- Points
- 3
I am looking for any suggestions on an air intake for my 3.0?
Cold Air Intake
- Thread starter DirtyDogZ3
- Start date
Relatively easy to put your own kit together rather than having to buy an off the shelf one. Just need a large cone filter, some rubber hosing the correct diameter and some jubilee clips. Oh, and some assembly time for a metal bracket to hold it in place.
DirtyDogZ3
Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2017
- Points
- 3
You know, I just had that thought. Why can't I just by the filter and di some kind of crafty work. Great idea, Thanks you.
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2011
- Points
- 145
To measure improvement, get some software that reads the air temperature sensor and the air-mass flowrate. Testo will do this. Also get hold of a laser thermometer - they are only £15.
The objective is to increase the air-mass flowrate (kg/s) to the point where the ECU can't tell the injectors to pump more fuel, or the injectors can't physically pump more fuel. Cold air is denser, so the air-mass flowrate will get bigger even if the volume flow rate stays the same.
Reducing the temperature of the air going into your intake system will make the biggest impact. You are unlikely to be able to cool it yourself, so you need to draw the air from the coolest place possible. You should try to draw the air from outside the car, not inside the engine bay. Personally, I'd be careful to ensure that the intake nozzle doesn't face into the air stream of the car as this will weaken the mixture as the car goes faster.
The next stage is insulating. This where you attempt to stop the underbonnet heat from heating up the cool air. I used aluminium sheets, loft insulation and gold tape. Total cost was around £50 (https://zroadster.org/threads/pingus-m-roadster.17767/#post-298214).
My next plan is to insulate the throttle bodies (currently 75°C) using some phenolic sheet. I have just bought some from eBay - £10 for a 190x190x6 sheet.
Have fun - keep us posted.
The objective is to increase the air-mass flowrate (kg/s) to the point where the ECU can't tell the injectors to pump more fuel, or the injectors can't physically pump more fuel. Cold air is denser, so the air-mass flowrate will get bigger even if the volume flow rate stays the same.
Reducing the temperature of the air going into your intake system will make the biggest impact. You are unlikely to be able to cool it yourself, so you need to draw the air from the coolest place possible. You should try to draw the air from outside the car, not inside the engine bay. Personally, I'd be careful to ensure that the intake nozzle doesn't face into the air stream of the car as this will weaken the mixture as the car goes faster.
The next stage is insulating. This where you attempt to stop the underbonnet heat from heating up the cool air. I used aluminium sheets, loft insulation and gold tape. Total cost was around £50 (https://zroadster.org/threads/pingus-m-roadster.17767/#post-298214).
My next plan is to insulate the throttle bodies (currently 75°C) using some phenolic sheet. I have just bought some from eBay - £10 for a 190x190x6 sheet.
Have fun - keep us posted.
This is 2.8 might work? https://zroadster.org/threads/z3-2-8-induction-kits.16773/
I used a big Ramair filter with 90mm dia. silicone tubing. Making a support bracket is dead easy.
Tony.
Aaron MacQ
Zorg Guru (I)
Check out what I did using a K&N Apollo intake (any 57a kit will do), a universal 45 degree 80mm-70mm silicon tube and a strip of aluminium strip to secure it.
Working perfectly on a remapped M52B28, pulls strong, sounds great and no heat soak concerns.
I'm still running standard manifold for now, but if I change to an M50, i'd swap the K&N Apollo for a K&N Orion which has a larger 76mm tube diameter and higher flow potential.
K&N claim that normally aspirated, the Apollo is good for 250bhp, whereas the Orion is good for up to 500bhp.
Photo below is without the duct that feeds colder air from the void under the passenger headlight area.
Working perfectly on a remapped M52B28, pulls strong, sounds great and no heat soak concerns.
I'm still running standard manifold for now, but if I change to an M50, i'd swap the K&N Apollo for a K&N Orion which has a larger 76mm tube diameter and higher flow potential.
K&N claim that normally aspirated, the Apollo is good for 250bhp, whereas the Orion is good for up to 500bhp.
Photo below is without the duct that feeds colder air from the void under the passenger headlight area.
Thats easy for you to say @t-tony , Is that compared to fitting a tailgate?
Have a look in my signature for inspiration( unleash the kraken). i sell a few kits to guys on here but it isnt too hard to make your own.
N
N4LLY
Guest
Ha, ha. T**T!!
Only just spotted this Paul, but yes much easier. The apprentice was ok though.
Tony.
antodeco
Zorg Addict
Just very quickly on this. I've been reading alot on upgrading the intake. However, most things I've read have said the intake is down towards the fog light. On mine, it sits between the headlight and the front grille. It has a "squeezed" opening. Is that normal? I don't want to alter anything if I don't have to!