Code reader stuck!

Jam03

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Plugged my code reader in under the dash, but I can’t seem to remove it. What’s the trick? Was quite difficult to get on and it clicked into place, but feels like I would need to rip something out to remove it. Do I just keep on pulling?
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mwpe

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They just push in and pull out, they are a bit of a tight fit. You may have to put one hand on the panel and one on the plug, alright if you are a contortionist.
 

Zephyr

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upper left corner. use something that will not damage the plastic (fat allen key etc) and push towards the dash. Then pull and twist the socket. that way you will not rip out the slot.
 

Jam03

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Thanks guys. I used the Allen key to hold the flange of the car side connector and it eventually came free. Won’t be using that again in a hurry.
 

Oddly Godly

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If you also have the round socket under the bonnet it might be worth getting an adapter. You will be able to read more modules with a code reader.
 

Jam03

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Had a little play round with the reader and since @Zephyr had spent some time trying to sort out his smooth running valves, thought I would look at that. I have no idea what the numbers mean, but mine were all over the place. Still managed to have a very enjoyable 100mile breakfast run today, so maybe I shouldn’t care too much.
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Jam03

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If you also have the round socket under the bonnet it might be worth getting an adapter. You will be able to read more modules with a code reader.
Yes, I got the round adapter, just fancied a quick look at the live data while I revved the engine.
 

Zephyr

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The smoothness value is an indication of the consistency of providing crankshaft acceleration at idle for each cylinder. If that effort is the same for every camshaft revolution then the value would stay consistent for all cylinders. (And very low - 0.25 up to 2.6/3.0)
As cylinder combustion is never perfect you will get differing levels of effort being made for the same cylinder - the greater that difference the higher the smoothness value.
Before I made a mistake thinking that smooth values have to be consistent between all cylinders and almost made me mad that I could not figure out what was the issue.
until I got an official response from my tech guy, who said that the
1 values have to be consistent for each cylinder to itself, so comparing between 1 and 6 makes no sense (unless No6 shows numbers over 10 or worse over 20 - will get into this later). So if cylinder 1 is constantly returning numbers between 0.25 and 0.40 for example its OK.
2 values have to be equal or close to the number you get if you add all six (or four) and then divide by number of cylinders.
So, adding and dividing your numbers gives us a rough 2.43, showing that cylinder no2 being above this number, needs some attention.
still your numbers are so low, that you do not have to worry, they are normal for an engine that has more than 40.000 km (30ish? In miles or so).
if you really want to dig into this (i do not suggest) swap the coils between 5 and 2 and read again. If no difference, swap the injectors. If still no difference leave it as it is and drive it, until you (probably never) see a big difference that up to 15 or 20 might be a chain or chain tensioner and above 20 could be a pretty worn camshaft lobe.
in general your numbers are pretty good and do not worry about them, unless you (like me) have lots of time to spend in the garage. (I am constantly trying to avoid my wife who just entered the menopause and spend my day in the garage. Her smooth running values are all over the place and acts like a cobra on steroids, so I guess by the time this period ends I will have a PhD in bmw engines).
cheers and thanks for looking at these numbers.
 

Jam03

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The smoothness value is an indication of the consistency of providing crankshaft acceleration at idle for each cylinder. If that effort is the same for every camshaft revolution then the value would stay consistent for all cylinders. (And very low - 0.25 up to 2.6/3.0)
As cylinder combustion is never perfect you will get differing levels of effort being made for the same cylinder - the greater that difference the higher the smoothness value.
Before I made a mistake thinking that smooth values have to be consistent between all cylinders and almost made me mad that I could not figure out what was the issue.
until I got an official response from my tech guy, who said that the
1 values have to be consistent for each cylinder to itself, so comparing between 1 and 6 makes no sense (unless No6 shows numbers over 10 or worse over 20 - will get into this later). So if cylinder 1 is constantly returning numbers between 0.25 and 0.40 for example its OK.
2 values have to be equal or close to the number you get if you add all six (or four) and then divide by number of cylinders.
So, adding and dividing your numbers gives us a rough 2.43, showing that cylinder no2 being above this number, needs some attention.
still your numbers are so low, that you do not have to worry, they are normal for an engine that has more than 40.000 km (30ish? In miles or so).
if you really want to dig into this (i do not suggest) swap the coils between 5 and 2 and read again. If no difference, swap the injectors. If still no difference leave it as it is and drive it, until you (probably never) see a big difference that up to 15 or 20 might be a chain or chain tensioner and above 20 could be a pretty worn camshaft lobe.
in general your numbers are pretty good and do not worry about them, unless you (like me) have lots of time to spend in the garage. (I am constantly trying to avoid my wife who just entered the menopause and spend my day in the garage. Her smooth running values are all over the place and acts like a cobra on steroids, so I guess by the time this period ends I will have a PhD in bmw engines).
cheers and thanks for looking at these numbers.
Thanks…I will definitely not be swapping coils and injectors, but I think at 103k miles it’s seems okay and my favourite garage will hopefully sort whatever needs sorting when it goes for a service in summer.
For your remaining smooth running valve issue, I would normally recommend plugging in your code reader, but I suspect it may be a bit difficult to get it in, so I think you are safer in the garage with your 21 year old topless mistress.
 

Zephyr

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Thanks…I will definitely not be swapping coils and injectors, but I think at 103k miles it’s seems okay and my favourite garage will hopefully sort whatever needs sorting when it goes for a service in summer.
For your remaining smooth running valve issue, I would normally recommend plugging in your code reader, but I suspect it may be a bit difficult to get it in, so I think you are safer in the garage with your 21 year old topless mistress.
Nope. Both obd ports on her are sealed tight and my scanner is low on battery. No hope there.
 
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