Clutch question for the experts

[NigelM]

Got an issue with my Z3M Roadster I could do with some help with.

When the clutch is depressed all the way it doesn't seem to be far enough to disengage the clutch. Come to a junction in neutral, depress the clutch and you can't physically engage any gear. Turn the ignition off, engage a gear and restart the engine again with the pedal all the way down and it starts slowly rolling forward with the clutch still depressed.

It's not slipping in any way. It feels like I need to depress the clutch a couple of inches further than it's maximum travel to get it to disengage properly.

Does it sound like a new clutch is required or is it more likely to be pipe/seal/fluid related?

Thanks for your help. Nigel

 

[Alistair Francis]

This to me sounds like a clutch line problem. I recently replaced the clutch slave cylinder and bleed the clutch line and it improved my shifting into first problems. Bleeding the line is a bit of a pain, but isn't impossible to do.

There are some steps here which are pretty handy: https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Clutch_Slave/E36-Clutch_Slave.htm

 

[Sean d]

I would also say that it sounds like a fluid issue as the clutch is not clearing the pressure plate when pressed.
@t-tony

 

[Pingu]

I would just re-bleed the slave cylinder. You need to take it off to do it as the bleed nipple is not at the top.

 

[NZ00Z3]

Bleed the slave cylinder as others have advised. Also consider replacing the rubber hose to the slave cylinder. They have been known to start to balloon under pressure when they get old and cause your symptoms.

 

[NZ00Z3]

This tread has some interesting information that may help
https://zroadster.org/threads/1996-bmw-z3-clutch-pedal-position.22800/#post-390495

 

[Alistair Francis]

This tread has some interesting information that may help
https://zroadster.org/threads/1996-bmw-z3-clutch-pedal-position.22800/#post-390495

I didn't replace the clutch hose in this case, now I'm kind of thinking I should have. It does seem hard to undo it from the master cylinder though. I remember looking at the hose and it looked fine.
It does feel noticeably better now. Even in California where it's fairly dry it seems like the DOT-4 fluid absorbed at least some water.

 

[NigelM]

Thanks for all the advise. Sounds as if it might well be a fluid/pipe issue. I will have a little dig about this weekend and see what I can find.

 

[NigelM]

I drove it today, only about 10 miles so it didn't really get the chance to warm up, but the clutch was absolutely fine. My guess is that the pipe is shot and ballooning when it gets warm, when cold it holds it's form.

Took the hard top off for the first time this morning. Went to raise the soft top and no joy. A bit of digging and found the brake lights were not working. Not a fuse issue so will have a look at the brake switch tomorrow. Raised the hood manually so I could give it a good wash. Clay bar and compound tomorrow, polish and wax on Monday. Should be looking spot on by then.

Thanks so much to this forum and it's members. Through searching through old threads and asking the members I seems to be finding solutions to all the little issues I'm bumping into. A great forum.

 

[Mnbrennan]

Yes, mine was doing this, fine when cold but hard to engage 1st when warm. An Earls braided clutch hose sorted the job!

I'd get it done as soon as possible. It's likely that the clutch is wearing prematurely due to not being fully disengaged