My Z3 2.8 double vans will not start. During a short journey the car start to stop at idle and then miss fire badly. After I stopped the car would not start. OBD showed inlet cam sensor and fuel rail 1 & 2. I changed the inlet cam sensor for a BMW I'm rechecked and no issues on the OBD. Checked that there was fuel pressure testing using the schrader valve on the fuel rail, there is pressure but not sure how much. Engine spins over well but no signs of life and no help from the OBD connection. Any thoughts please.
Car won't start
- Thread starter britlad
- Start date
Check fuse for fuel pump is ok and pump relay. When you turn ignition on can you hear the pump run to charge the fuel rail pressure?
Tony.
Tony.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2016
- Points
- 231
- Model of Z
- Z3M Imola and Z4 (e89)
The car I'm breaking did the same the other day, battery had gone flat, I put the jump pack on it and spun it over for about 30 seconds and no sign of it firing, I took the key out and locked it, unlocked and tried again and it started first spin, I assumed it was something to do with the EWS but I believe that blocks the starter motor.
The twin vanos enigine has two cam shaft sensors but that shouldnt stop it at least coughing if ones faulty. I would look at the crank shaft sensor or like Sean says the EWS system.
Does the EWS stop the starter or the electrical circuit to the plugs. I have a spare key which I will try today. The car is stuck at another house so even more of a problem.
Odd that the OBD does not show any of these issues?
Thanks for tips so far.
Michael
Odd that the OBD does not show any of these issues?
Thanks for tips so far.
Michael
The EWS’s role is to release the starter so it’s not that.
It might be the rolling code handshake with the DME which releases the ignition circuit.
But as you were already having issues it’s unlikely to be the root cause.
If no codes I would start looking for air leaks.
Possibly, just possibly a rolling code reset may be required after other issues are sorted but I can’t think it’s anything other than incidental to other failures although that would normally be battery issues.
It might be the rolling code handshake with the DME which releases the ignition circuit.
But as you were already having issues it’s unlikely to be the root cause.
If no codes I would start looking for air leaks.
Possibly, just possibly a rolling code reset may be required after other issues are sorted but I can’t think it’s anything other than incidental to other failures although that would normally be battery issues.
That should be enough to run the motor. Did you check the pump fuse and relay?
Tony.
ps. You could try loosening an inlet boot clip and spray some carb cleaner or similar into the inlet, then crank and see if it fires.
Tony.
ps. You could try loosening an inlet boot clip and spray some carb cleaner or similar into the inlet, then crank and see if it fires.
It seems it is the EWS to DME link that is the problem. My car is the twin vans post September 1998 which makes it less common according to local spares source. A friend has down loaded a cure for this but his computer has the wrong connection (USB) so still no fix. He borrowed the parts of another car and mine started immediately. Any suggestions for fix/parts in Kent, I live close to Maidstone.
You are referring to 2 different things there.
First of all the rolling codes.
Then replacing components.
So it’s not clear if you just need a rolling code reset. Or if you need a replacement EWS or even DME.
I can probably provide further guidance but need to know exactly what your friend did to start the car.
First of all the rolling codes.
Then replacing components.
So it’s not clear if you just need a rolling code reset. Or if you need a replacement EWS or even DME.
I can probably provide further guidance but need to know exactly what your friend did to start the car.
I can also advise on setting yourself up with the diagnostics for a rolling code reset. It’s £20 for the cable/software and runs on any PC.