Bush replacements

[NeilH]

Hi All,

I need some support. Its time to replace the bushes to get that more direct better feel to my z3 1.9 narrow body steering.

Please can you support with what is worth replacing to make it drive like new. (Im not going powerflex as they are just too expensive unless i really must)

Im thinking

Front

Drop link bushes (febi)
Front Wishbone rear bushes (febi)

Rear
Axle mount bushes (febi)
Trailing arm bushes (febi) are there 2 types upper and lower?
Diff bushes (powerflex cant see standard?)
Anti roll bar link (febi)

What else would i need? I cant do these jobs myself i dont have the tools or skills so got be careful bill doesnt come in too high.

Im already having new bilstein b4 damper kit and eibach springs and rear to front brake pipes fitted but want the bushes sorted too whilst this work goes on. If you can help and with any links to what to buy it would be appreciated.

Thanks

Neil.

 

[Althulas]

There will be nothing wrong with new oem bushes all around except that poly ones are easier to change, there are other makes like duraflex and strongflex come to mind but oem will be cheaper. If your going the whole hog though the rear beam bushes will need doing as well to tighten the rear end up. You can see examples done in the Zedshed section.

 

[NeilH]

Going ask a silly question sorry

Rear beam bushes? Are these different to axle mount bushes?

Il try look up the zedshed section on this too thanks. Sorry im not mechanically minded at all and dont want sound too daft when take it garage for all these bits. Got a little time as waiting for the damper kit and springs arrive.

Thanks

 

[the Nefyn cat]

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

BMW parts Z3 E36 Z3 2.2i Rear axle support/wheel suspension

www.realoem.com

Part 3, beam/axle mount bushes, part 8, swing arm/trailing arm bushes. The polybush versions of part three are a lot easier to fit, and mine have been in for about 5 years now with no problems.

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

BMW parts Z3 E36 Z3 2.2i Final drive cover/trigger contact

www.realoem.com

Diff bush, part 2, polybush version again easier to fit, and I've had one in for the same time, no problems.

 

[Woodsta888]

I got this set from strongflex, circa £200 for the whole car. You may not wantto use the ainti roll bar drop links front and back so may save if you bought the rest individually.

bmw-z3-94-02

Polyurethane bushes BMW

www.strongflex.eu

You're gonna need a press to get the old ones out or burn/drill. OEM too you'll need to press them in. Polybushes are much easier.

Only downside to polybush is that after a while they may squeak - but the set I bought comes with tonnes of grease sachets, so I lathered all mine in the special grease supplied.

Some people have found the polybush ride too hard and have gone back to OEM. So maybe your set of bilsteins + Eibachs plus OEM bushes will be stiff enough.

Haven't finished mine yet, but there are a few of us on here that have done/doing running gear refurbs - so plenty of guides,pics and help if you need it.

There's also the Zed sheds

 

[NeilH]

Thanks for the replies people and ive found the zshed section as well about the rear.

A friend today told me about the strongflex which is an option if £200 for whole kit. OEM (Febi) is about £100 and powerflex probably talking £300 plus.

I dont want to harsh a ride just want a good feel to the steering

Thanks

 

[the Nefyn cat]

BMW Z3 including M | Powerflex | Road Series Bushes

Upgrade your BMW Z3, including M models, with Powerflex Road Series Bushes. Benefit from increased steering precision and enhanced stability. Made from high-quality polyurethane for long-lasting performance. Minimise tyre wear and maximise handling. Order here great customer service.

www.powerflexsuspensionbushes.co.uk

If you want it with a better feel to the steering then bush no.2 on the picture is a fine thing. The oem ones are void bushes, ie got gaps in them, not a good way to give control of the lower arms, but since the arm rotates in the bush it doesn't make things any harsher. At least, didn't seem to to me.

 

[NZ00Z3]

If you like rubber front lower control arm bushings, then consider the Z3M bushing, part #31129069035. They have a lot more rubber in them and stop one of the causes of tram-lining. They are what I use in the Z3's that pass my way.

 

[NeilH]

Thanks everyone. I think to keep costs down as need pay for labour as well, i will need to stick with oem bushes for the most part Il get decent ish make (febi bilsteins)

Its over £200 difference febi vs powerflex and around £100 vs strongflex on top of the damper and spring kit install and purchase, im into the £1000 zone already with oem's.

From what people are saying as well. I could end up with quite a firm ride and id still like original feel just tighter. I think i have the complete list of bushings now thank you

 

[Mario]

Don´t forget the front control arm ball joints and the tie rod ends, in my case the tie rod ends (complete not just the final bit) were knackered and it completely cured the tramlining along with some front wheel alignment.

 

[Mike Fishwick]

Don't stick to OEM bushes where the front wishbones are concerned, for as stated above the OEM type will cause tram lining - particularly if you are using lower profile front tyres than standard. The M3 or Powerflex type should have been fitted as standard on all models anyway

 

[AirOps]

I am just finishing up a complete refresh of the rear suspension, B4 shocks, Revshift 80A subframe bushings and Differential mount, and lemforder trailing arm bushings. I went with the bushings/mounts from Revshift rear-subframe-bushings-bmw-e36-318ti-z3 because they make them in several levels (80A OEM+, 95A hard street/track, and 70D solid track only), I wanted bushings which would help control subframe movement without being to stiff for everyday driving. I will also refresh the front suspension with B4 struts, Meyle HD control arms & sway bar links, and Revshift 80A control arm bushings. Hoping for a comfortable and controlled ride on the road. Removing the the OEM subframe bushings took a bit thought, ended up modifying a tie rod end/Pitman arm removal tool, some threaded rod, and a big socket. Once I fabed the tool it took less than 10 mins each to remove the bushings. The trailing arm bushings were much easier to remove with some sockets and bolts, used a C clamp to press the new ones in.

 

[AirOps]

Finshed both the front and rear suspension refresh, took it out for a test drive over the weekend, definitely firmer/tighter and the tracking felt good even with the rough alignment (can't wait to test it with a proper alignment). The poly bushings did not feel overly "stiff", but hard to fully compare when previously it had the original 24 year old rubber parts and shocks with 115,000 miles.

 

[Palmetto]

I started on my refresh last night. I had previously changed a spring and strut as the old spring had broken. I'd felt that the other side wasn't damping as much. It was only after I got the strut off that I realised it wasn't damping at all. Push the strut down and that's where it stayed. The steering arms were shot too. I'll be getting the new ones on today and going for a drive.

 

[the Nefyn cat]

Push the strut down and that's where it stayed

Not necessarily a problem, not all dampers are meant to sprimg back out once they've been compressed, just the gas type. It's the resistance to being compressed and extended that matters.

 

[Palmetto]

It's the resistance to being compressed and extended that matters.

There was bugger all resistance too.

 

[the Nefyn cat]

Then that's what we in the trade call "bu**ered". Technical term. Just that I've known people change non-gas dampers because they stay still when pushed down, and then be disappointed when the new ones are just the same.

 

[Iamjonw]

Maybe just me, but I read this heading and thought Merkin!

 

[AirOps]

Update with about 300 miles on a variety of roads with the car since a proper alignment. The biggest differences I am noticing in the car with the poly bushing's (Front Control Arm, Rear Subframe, and Differential) are the acceleration, steering, and suspension response is much more direct with the reduction in movement ( deflection) of the rear subframe and front control arms, it now feels a lot more like a go-cart. There is a slight increase (very minor) in NVH, which I would attribute to a combination of the 80a Poly bushes and the Meyle HD control arms (solid mounted ball joints). Now that the suspension is sorted, I plan on getting new tires to complete the refresh, I am considering the Continental Extreme Contact DWS 06+ or Michelin Pilot Sport All season 4? Not looking for an extreme performance tire, just a good tire for daily driving with the occasional spirited drive!

 

[NeilH]

I can report back that after having all bushes replaced with febi bilstein bar the diff bush my car is driving and feeling as smooth as a new car. Would recommend the rubber bush replacements as well as the polybushes above.

I now have a different issue but not related need a new wishbone ball joint i think. May just get full febi bilstein wishbone set.

Cheers.