Bleeding brakes....!

[Redline]

Both a statement and a question......

Am contemplating taking the ABS off the car myself for a refurb to sort the three ABS lights issue - that is if I can negotiate some space and a few days on a neighbours drive. What is putting me off is bleeding the brakes when re-installing it. Having seen a number of posts about the pitfalls and problems it seems both a pressure bleed system and INPA are both needed to ensure the ABS is bled properly.

Any recommendations on which Pressure Bleed system to contemplate? Pro's and Con's etc.

TIA

 

[t-tony]

I changed the fluid on my car without anything other than my pressure bleeder Ian. Have done many BMWs at work the same way.

Tony.

ps. I sent a link to an R&R guide I found to your other thread .

 

[Redline]

I changed the fluid on my car without anything other than my pressure bleeder Ian. Have done many BMWs at work the same way.

Tony.

ps. I sent a link to an R&R guide I found to your other thread .

Thanks Tony.

I live in hope but expect the worst. Just been reading the shenanigans that @Sean d had with his Z3 last year.
It's not so much doing the bleeding but expunging any air from the ABS unit itself. You've got a big lump of metal with air in it that you have to get out. Chatted to a guy yesterday that had massive problems on a Merc with a similar problem. Took two days for them to resolve and that was with all the workshop equipment you'd need.

 

[t-tony]

You can discount the issue the Sean had totally Ian. Self inflicted, by fitting Z4 rear callipers which when on the car had the bleed screw at the bottom so that air was trapped in the callipers.
I understand your reticence but I'm sure the reality will be ok.

Tony.

 

[Lee]

I also use a pressure bleeder that uses the pressure off the tyre. I've used it for various jobs brake and clutch related with no issues. Must of used it 40/50 times on various cars. Remember with Seans car he had some custom bits non OEM to the Z3 which needed some more thought.

 

[mrscalex]

If you are only taking the module off, which is the normal cause of pump related errors, it doesn’t need any bleed.

Not sure I’ve ever heard of the pump itself failing? Or have you already confirmed that?

 

[mrscalex]

If you do need to bleed the system, the one I got from Machine Mart is excellent.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht857-brake-and-clutch-bleeding-kit/

 

[t-tony]

Not sure you can get the module off the pump in situ on a Z4. Not found anything to say you can that is.

Tony.

 

[Redline]

Can't see how you get the module alone off. I suspect there are bolts hidden from view.
Found a local BMW Indy that will charge £95 to remove the whole assembly to send for refurb and re-install on return.
It's the usual codes indicating it's the module not the pump. The lights went out for a short while earlier but soon returned.

Will check with ECUTesting to see if it's the whole pump they need or just the module if that can be removed. My first read made me think it's the whole ABS pump/module assembly.

 

[t-tony]

Almost always the electrical module which fails and usually for poor connections no matter what make or model. We used to do quite a lot on VAG cars, including my Touran when I had it..

Tony.

 

[t-tony]

Can't see how you get the module alone off. I suspect there are bolts hidden from view.
Found a local BMW Indy that will charge £95 to remove the whole assembly to send for refurb and re-install on return.
It's the usual codes indicating it's the module not the pump. The lights went out for a short while earlier but soon returned.

Will check with ECUTesting to see if it's the whole pump they need or just the module if that can be removed. My first read made me think it's the whole ABS pump/module assembly.

I suspect they'll want the complete item so they can fully test it before sending it back to you ian.

Tony.

 

[Redline]

If I could get the module off I'd split it myself and re-solder all the connections tbh.
Just been out in it so everything is rather hot to be poking around at the moment. Will take a look later.
Had tried removing the connector a while ago but am unable to work out how it is unclipped. Must be a knack to it.

 

[handsomejackuk]

i use a vacuum bleeder just clip on to the bleed nipples and suck the fluid through... also got a special bottle thing that goes on the master cylinder and keeps it topped up works like a dream... needs a compressor though...

 

[mrscalex]

Forgot this was a Z4. Module advice applies to Z3.

 

[t-tony]

If I could get the module off I'd split it myself and re-solder all the connections tbh.
Just been out in it so everything is rather hot to be poking around at the moment. Will take a look later.
Had tried removing the connector a while ago but am unable to work out how it is unclipped. Must be a knack to it.

Why not do that Ian. Get the Indy to remove the unit then you could take the module off and repair the soldered joints and then let the Indy refit the pump.

Tony.

 

[Redline]

Why not do that Ian. Get the Indy to remove the unit then you could take the module off and repair the soldered joints and then let the Indy refit the pump.

Tony.

Looks like the module can be removed with the pump in-situ. Just remove the four Torqs screws from the wheel arch. Sounds simple doesn't it

This is an Z4M with the equipment on the LHS. Hopefully it's just the reverse.

Will do some further research on splitting the module. If that's looking good I'll have a go myself if I can get some space to do the work - then may not need to worry about bleeding the brakes to purge the pump. Fingers crossed.....

 

[t-tony]

So long as you can access the Torx screws it looks like you're onto a winner. Can't see why you wouldn't be able to do that on a RHD car.

Tony.

 

[Redline]

So long as you can access the Torx screws it looks like you're onto a winner. Can't see why you wouldn't be able to do that on a RHD car.

Tony.

Maybe I should let the pro's look at it. Just found out how to remove the connector. It's one of those that pulls the plug from the socket as you pull the tab further out. Plugged it back up - Now I've now got no comms with the ABS module at all

 

[t-tony]

Then maybe that's where the bad connection is? Try some electrical contact cleaner on the plug and socket?

Tony.

 

[Redline]

Then maybe that's where the bad connection is? Try some electrical contact cleaner on the plug and socket?

Tony.

Done that too. Made no difference. Unplugged and plugged up again several times. Could be a pin connection inside the unit.