Best rust converter?

Jack Ratt

Zorg Expert (I)
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British Zeds
The West Country
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Dec 3, 2013
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TRURO, CORNWALL
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2.8i AUTO and 2.8i MANUAL
I've got my rusty sills off my car and am pleasantly surprised that the under sills are very good on the sides of the car but underneath, especially near the jacking points where the underbody protection has been rubbed off it looks like deep rust. I've tentatively brushed and poked these areas and they're still quite solid so no need for any welding.

A number of years ago I used Hammerite Kurust? or similar sounding name which was a brush on product that stabilized rust into a surface ready for painting/filling.

Any recommendations for a similar product?
 

GZed

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Jun 28, 2018
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Shrewsbury, Shropshire
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Z3 2.8 Prefacelift
I’ve been really impressed with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 rust converter. Expensive but a little bit goes a long way.
For rust prevention once you’ve finished ( or even directly over light surface rust) then Lanogard has proved very good and effective. Again expensive but a little bit goes a long way. V easy to apply, and in my opinion it’s such a thin liquid it seeps into seams, nooks & crannies much better than Waxoyl, which I always had to dilute with white spirit.
 

t-tony

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E89 Z4 23i Auto
Vactan is a good product which converts the rust into a stable, paintable surface.
Have a look on eBay Garry. Apparently the Dutch sailing barges use it below the waterline on steel hulls. Disney and Universal Studios also use it in their theme parks too.

Tony.
 

Patryk

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British Zeds
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Jun 18, 2019
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Cardiff
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2.8
Forch Korroplex is a really good one, but I don’t know how about the availability in UK.
 

Nodzed

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IanA

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British Zeds
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Oct 4, 2014
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Oxon
I’ve been really impressed with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 rust converter. Expensive but a little bit goes a long way....
+1 from me. I've used Bilthamber Hydrate, Deox and Ge-Ox.

Also- Aquasteel rust converter does a good job on surface rusting. It leaves a good surface for paint.
 

DrWong

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May 8, 2017
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3.0i
Bilt Hamber Deox gel is amazing if you want to dissolve rust away, as opposed to converting it. Takes more time and effort though, but will get you back to clean metal for painting etc.
Gratuitous photo of jacking point after cleaning with BH Deox Gel. It was really crusty and pitted to start with.

View attachment 267875
 

DrWong

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Sorry, meant to put the photo in the message as opposed to an attachment

1688641299709.png
 

OhioZ4

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American Zeds
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Jun 15, 2021
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Ohio USA
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E85 2.5i Sport
Dont know if you guys have it over there but when I was doing my MG , I used alot of POR-15 . They have different types , some you can paint right over the rust , some rust remover or rust prevention .

 
Last edited:

Nodzed

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Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, England
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Z3M Imola and Z4 (e89)
Dont know if you guys have it over there but when I was doing my MG , I used alot of POR-15 . They have different types , some you can paint right over the rust , some rust remover or rust prevention .

A few have used por15 and found rust forming underneath so caution with this product???
 

petecossie

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British Zeds
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Dec 7, 2011
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Teesside
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Z3 M Coupe
After reading Dr Wong write up on his sill refurb before I started my project I went with BH Deox Gel for killing the rust. See results from pics below. Must admit I was a bit worried when I saw the inner sill surface on first look see in pic #1.

1. Inner sills after removal of outer covers.
DSCN5257.JPG


2. After removing cracked underseal and jacking point rubber.

DSCN5274.JPG


3. After painting with Hammerite primer - 3 coats if I recall

DSCN5300.JPG


4. After painting with Hammerite Smooth Black - 3 coats

DSCN5303.JPG


5. The guy who painted my wings and sill covers then finished off the job by applying Waxoyl to the inner sills.

DSCN5318.JPG
 
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