Another Central Locking/Remote Entry Problem

tartufo

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I have both a 2000 Z3M as well as a 1999 Z3, both coupes. My problem is with the 1999 plain vanilla Z3. I am hoping that the "symptoms" I am describing will be obvious enough that someone can point me in the right direction. I have already read through the various central locking problem threads I could find here with the search function, and understand that problems with wiring looms, actuators, and the locks themselves are fairly common, but where to start in my situation is not clear (at least to me).

I purchased this Z3 coupe about a month ago and on delivery there were no remote key fobs supplied, and the central locking did not work, at all, in either door or in the hatch. I checked and double checked all the related fuses, even substituted new ones, one by one, for the related fuses, with no benefit. I contacted an aftermarket alarm company, United Auto Security, who told me the problem was probably in my ZKE/General Module IV behind the glove box, in that the relays can burn out but can be replaced as a board-level repair. I removed the module and sent it to them for this repair, from which it was returned with the 3 removed/replaced relays in a separate envelope. I also ordered an aftermarket keyless remote system from United.

I installed the repaired GM IV plus the aftermarket keyless remote module (to the prewired BMW harness). All installations and removals were done with the battery disconnected which was then reconnected. Central locking is still entirely inoperative; putting the key in any lock and locking or unlocking causes no sound other than in the lock being manually opened or closed and does nothing to the other locks. When I press either lock or unlock on the new keyless remote, the lights flash, as they should, and you can hear a lock related sound in the hatch/trunk lock, however it does not lock or unlock, and nothing happens to either of the door locks. I am assuming and have no reason to disbelieve that the GM IV was repaired correctly. I was told that it was fully tested and fully operable when it was sent back to me, and that 2 of the 3 relays were burned out when I sent it in.

What I would like to do is to find one explanation for this behavior, which would be the most logical, but after looking at the wiring diagrams I can't come up with one, but maybe I am missing something. Is there one wire or circuit somewhere that could explain this behavior? Or instead does it mean I have something wrong in each of the 3 doors/locks? For example, the trunk lock/actuator could be broken, and similarly something with either the wiring and or locks or actuators in both of the other doors? That would be 3 more problems in addition to supposedly burned out relays in the GM IV? Seems like a lot of problems to have simultaneously in one car!

I am also at a point of trying to decide if I should just throw in the towel on this problem and use the damn keys manually and forget about central locking and remote wireless entry; I'm already out about $300 and many hours of my time, plus I don't know if the dash/glove box can be removed again and reinstalled in a presentable condition as it appears to have been opened before I got there myself and was not put back together in the best condition by one of the former owners. . . . .

Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 

GazHyde

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if I should just throw in the towel on this problem and use the damn keys manually and forget about central locking and remote wireless entry; I'm already out about $300 and many hours of my time
I'm really not sure on the technical answers on this, but I don't see why it can't be made to work.
I don't know if the dash/glove box can be removed again and reinstalled in a presentable condition
It certainly can. I'm guessing if it's been taken out before that someone has been in there trying to fix it previously. A lot of the clips are fiddly to put back in place, and I've seen plenty of Z3 consoles not put back together properly...
 

tartufo

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I believe that the former owner, or perhaps one before him, was in to deal with the sagging glove box issue. From talking to the former owner he appears to have been unaware that the car even had central locking to begin with but did consult a dealer about putting in remote keyless entry. The dealer quote was so high and also indicated that the dealer didn't really know much about the issue, and this convinced the former owner not to bother with this feature and they just used the keys on all door locks during their period of ownership.

Judging by the appearance of the modules and plugs and wires behind the glove box, I think that I was the first one in there as they appeared untouched, just the glove box and related trim was a mess. I did find a salvaged glove box assembly that looks to be in good condition and at a good price on ebay, so I bought it just to have in case I decide to replace the one in the car.
 

t-tony

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Definitely worth looking into as the drivers door, whether it be right or left hand drive houses the main solenoid from which the others, door, boot and fuel filler (if fitted) are driven. If this one is not working it's unlikely that the others could.

Tony.
 

tartufo

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the route you took would not have been my first choice, im no expert on electrics but yes, i would have checked all related fuses and my next port of call would have been the solenoids in the drivers door.... i hope this helps you, may not but just giving my tuppence worth ;-)
I absolutely checked every related fuse 3x before I did anything else. This includes the 3 listed on the fuse box plus the 2 other for remote entry. I even replaced the fuses one by one with fresh ones just to test them and it made no difference. Only after that did I speak with the wireless remote/alarm people who were the ones who told me that the ZKE/GM IV was the likely culprit.

I didn't know there even was a solenoid in the driver's door; how does one access it? By solenoid are you using that word interchangeably with actuator, or are they separate parts?

Thanks.
 

t-tony

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Actuator/solenoid the same thing. Access by removing the door trim (card) and check wiring connections and also continuitiy especially through the loom access tube at the door hinge area.

Tony.
 

David Cullen

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tartufo

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https://www.youtube.com/embed/b0zT2UtEU88

Yes, I believe so.

i am not sure as to whether the actuator being gone effects the whole system, maybe someone can enlighten us on that one? more info for you none the less, i hope it helps. Dave
I'm not a car mechanic by nature . . . . I can certainly swap a radio and do some simple things, but my clutz-like tendencies can get me in trouble and reading through the steps needed to replace the actuator . . . . I am not sure that this plays to my "strengths" :)

Thanks,

ken
 

tartufo

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Thanks very much everyone for your very helpful responses. I am going to have to mull this over a bit. There's an independent car repair shop not far away with a good technician who does not specialize in BMWs but is quite knowledgeable about them. I'm going to bounce this off of him and see if he is interested in taking this on and what it would cost if he does it. He lets me watch the work he does, so maybe I'd even learn something. Or maybe I'll try to do it myself. Gotta sleep on it a bit, have yet to impress myself with my auto repair skills but maybe this will be the time . . . . .

Thanks again!
 

tartufo

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I ordered a complete set of Dorman actuators (both front doors and the hatch) from Amazon for a total of $115. I couldn't see springing for the OEM ones being as they don't have a very good reputation, either. I will try to get into my mechanic before the end of the week with these and we can check out the door wiring and the actuators and use and do whatever is necessary to fix the problem. Hopefully the Dorman quality is at least adequate; these parts are listed as direct replacements for the OEM part numbers. Any actuators we don't use I'll send back to Amazon for a refund, but it will be necessary to have them in hand at the repair time in order for my guy to do the work, which I will watch if the timing works out. I'm going on a long trip next week so I won't be able to deal with this until mid May at the earliest if we don't do it this week.

Thanks again for everyone's help!

ken
 

David Cullen

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ell i hope this works out for you, it is usually the case that if the drivers goes, they all dont work and as soon as the drivers is working the rest work.... not much point in a control module :) you might change the drivers and if they work then bite the bullet and replace the lot with new ones ;-) and keep the working old ones as spares :)
 

t-tony

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I hope all works out for you on this Ken. So long as the replacement actuators are to OEM quality you shouldn't have a problem. I replaced the n/s (left) door actuator on mine 2 years ago with a non-genuine part OEM quality part and it is still working fine.

Tony.
 

tartufo

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If I had it to do over again I would either have just put up without having central locking, or I would have gone directly to the actuators and door wiring rather than having the GM IV module "repaired." I doubt it did any harm to replace the relays on the board, but there has been no demonstrable benefit, either. I'm only out $65 US for the board repair (including shipping) so not much harm has been done in any event. Now that I have put in a keyless entry system, assuming that the work we do later this week restores central locking, I'm sure I'll be happy with the end result.

Thanks again everyone for your advice and encouragement . . . .

ken
 

tartufo

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I am SOOOOOO GLAD that I didn't try to work on the door locks and actuators of the car. I purchased Dorman (non-OEM) actuators for each of the 2 doors plus for the hatch, and took them down to my mechanic 12 miles away. If everything had been as it should have been, I would not have wanted to take on this job, however all was not as it should have been.

The first hint was on the drivers door where the mechanic indicated that someone had been in there before and had either intentionally or unintentionally screwed things up. The firs hint was that the cable that was supposed to be going into the actuator was disconnected. The whole lock had to be removed, which involved dealing with the window which gets in the way, and then the new actuator was put in and everything put back together, which was a lot of steps.

The passenger door was similarly a mess, also in this case with the old actuator actually having been removed and everything disconnected. Once reassembled, the central locking worked for those two doors. Now on to the hatch. Not only had the actuator been removed, but also the connecting lever to the lock, so even with a new actuator in place it could not work as mechanical parts were GONE. Some sheetmetal was also removed from the inside of the door hatch, for no apparent reason. The mechanical parts needed to be ordered from BMW and won't come in for a few days, before which I am going out of town for 5 weeks, the majority of which time is internationally. I'm going to leave the car with the mechanic and get it back fixed when I return. The good news is that once the mechanical parts in the hatch are replaced, I will have a working central locking system with remote keyless entry. But, it was not easy and it will not be cheap.

Bottom line, one of the former owners of my car had basically destroyed and disconnected key parts of the central locking system in all 3 doors, for no apparent reason or benefit, and intentionally. I am assuming that the final bill on this including parts, but not including the remote access system I bought, will approach $500 USD. There is no way that a neophyte like me, with my mechanical skills, could have encountered this situation and (1) figured out what was going on, or (2) fixed it. I am really glad that I didn't attempt to do this job myself and then end up having to take it to the mechanic with the car in pieces and asking him to put it back together in working order.

ken
 

oldcarman

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Sorry to hear of all the problems some idiot caused. At least you shouldn't have to worry about any of it for some time.. JIM
 
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