ABS Advise

[Antm72]

Have for a while no had problems with car throwing the abs and asc lights.
I can canx them out normally quite quickly by just power cycling the ignition and they seem to reset and go out.
It always reads the same three faults..
Front right sensor /wiring
Abs pump
Electro magnetic interference
The reader says the codes clear but in re reading are immediatly back.
Its more of annoyance than an issue but would like to resolve it. The lights may be out 2-4 weeks at a time then just pop up randomly but never not been able to get them out.
Has anyone had any of these issues and if so what was the fix.?
The sensor had been replaced and is still showing issue i know that these cars suffer from a defective abs controller and im anticipating its a bad solder joint on one of the elctro magnets causing the fault to trigger.
The module removes and so can be repaired so no biggy but before i shell out to go that route any one have any advise first.?

 

[t-tony]

I would think it's most likely the pump itself Ant. Simon @Dobbo has an issue with his and we fitted a s/h pump he acquired of eBay.

Tony.

 

[TaffZee]

I would check the boot wiring first, I could not believe how badly burnt they were cant be good for the electrical system. I know it is unlikely but if you have never checked the boot wiring It wont harm anyway.

 

[Antm72]

I would think it's most likely the pump itself Ant. Simon @Dobbo has an issue with his and we fitted a s/h pump he acquired of eBay.

Tony.

I suppose it could be the pump but on the whole its mechanical it would appear to work on the basis of electro magnets in the module which can be un bolted to leave 8 pins i presume two electro magnets a wheel to fire the valves on and off on command from the wheel sensors.
As its stating a electro magnetic interferrence i presumming a bad module the car may say its pump but as the module controls the pump im guessing module over pump.
I removed the module yesterday lights on cleaned it with a brush and the error dropped striaght out without moving the car so it indicates it has something to do with it.
Andy spurs fan on a coupe is checking if he had a module so may try that but it £45 to have it tested and 150 to repair in needs be.

 

[Antm72]

I would check the boot wiring first, I could not believe how badly burnt they were cant be good for the electrical system. I know it is unlikely but if you have never checked the boot wiring It wont harm anyway.
View attachment 26205

it has been repaired before i took owner ship i may look and see if its ok but it appears all intact without any spurious faults alarm triggerings locking issues etc but worth a look

 

[t-tony]

The module is part of the pump is it not? That's why I suggested the "pump" as its all one piece, I'm not aware that you can buy just the module separately, that's not to say you can't though.

Tony.

 

[Aceman]

I have heard of several pumps going on Z3's more common than you think tbh and is usually a dry joint inside the module that is the culprit. As it has been repaired before maybe worth investing in a replacement from a salvaged Z3.

 

[t-tony]

In view of your talents Ant, it might be worth you re-soldering all the joints in the module?

Tony.

 

[Mint]

...it might be worth you re-soldering all the joints in the module?

That's what I would do first.

 

[Antm72]

On a lot of the pumps the module and pump are one but on my zed its 2 piece .Four screws and the module slides off.
I may see if i can get a module but some have said its coded i'm not convinced the part number must match but the zed seems to have little coded from what i can gather.
The repair costs are lifetime guarantee and as its the only codes on the car maybe worth the cost if its not the module at least £35 is a fair price even if it tests good i could pay that in cost to let someone track it.
Will try Quarry Motors tomorrow for a module but if it is common don't want spend heaps then still have to get it repaired.as its only the module they want the brake system stays intact , better to sort it now whilst the weather is naff than when its roof down weather and i want to be out and about.....

 

[Aceman]

I do believe Bill aka @Zed Carer had similar issues with his and ended up replacing his module/pump unit and had to get it coded.

 

[smiffy]

can someone please explain why an ABS pump needs to be coded to a vehicle?

 

[Antm72]

Im not sure myself why or actually if required if a like for like part is fitted.i do know as mentioned by @t-tony he fitted a replacement with another member and it was just plug and play.

 

[t-tony]

I'm fairly confident in saying that Simon expected to have to re- code this unit to his car but in the event it didn't need it.

Tony.

 

[Antm72]

I remember him thinking it would need it looking in to it the joints that go wrong feed the pump with power these are the ones that go causing the pump to glitch.
I may have a go at it but it looks a sealed unit so will have to see if it looks feasible.

 

[Zed Carer]

can someone please explain why an ABS pump needs to be coded to a vehicle?

The pump is used for both the ABS and ASC functions and does not need re-coding for the ABS function as the vehicle carries out its own check each time it is started. I used a pump and control module with the correct part numbers from a 2001 E46 and after fitting the ABS light went out but the ASC light stayed on. I had it re-coded at Quarry Motors in Sheffield and they explained that each BMW has a unique model identifier within the ECU and that the ASC module also has this identifier so they just needed to read from the ECU and copy to the ASC module and everything was fine. If I had been able to fit a pump from a 2.8 Z3 then it would probably not have needed re-coding.

 

[t-tony]

I think that may be why Simon had no issues with his, because it came from a like for like car with matching part numbers ?

Tony.

 

[smiffy]

Ah, coded by model rather than VIN. That makes sense.