A new look console project.

Southernboy

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After 20 + years of the hot South African weather, the original coating on the wood veneer has fine cracks and some chips. I have decided to tackle this issue and restore the parts.
Once I decided to do this, I also decided I would prefer a lighter wood veneer than the Walnut brown OEM veneer.
I found a veneer seller on eBay called "Thin wood and old tools" ( https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/thinwoodandoldtools?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754 )
I bought two 8" x 12" sheets of Oak burl veneer and had them shipped over.





Next was to remove the OEM parts and detach the wood trim from the plastic sub frame. This was really easy, since it is just stapled and contact glued.
The next step was to remove all the old coating on the original veneer. This was a slow process since I had to ensure I maintained all the curves and angles of the parts. So beginning with 120 grit wet sanding paper, I began removing the urethane coating and finally finished off with 400 grit when I got down to the original walnut veneer.




Both sections stripped and sanded with 400grit.......




I then started looking for a professional who could apply the new veneer. After looking through endless online companies, I found one guy in Durban -about 1000 kms away from me who has the expertise and will do the job.
Having found my man, I then looked at what he would face in actually doing the job, and decided to make some moulds he could use to clamp everything after applying the glue...

So using 20 and 30 mm thick MDF I set about making the necessary mould parts..
The top section of the wood trim is fairly easy as it has only 1 angle and a 10mm radius curve where it fits under the top dash air vent. The 10mm radius was easily machined with a router and 10mm cutter.
The lower section of the console trin is more complicated since it has a large radius curve at the end where the ciggy lighter is located.
Bear in mind, moulds have to be made for both sides of each console part...

The upper console part clamping moulds.....



And the lower clamping moulds.....



As you see I used some plastic which I cut from a section of drain pipe I had laying around. It was the perfect fit, so I simply added layers to give it sufficient rigidity to sustain clamping.

I had a special tool laser cut to ensure I had the perfect inner curve for the lower section mould. I used this to scrape the MDF until it was perfectly shaped to the curve of the tool and hence the console part.





So all ready for the the veneering guy to work his magic...

I'll add to this thread when I get the finished parts back from him early next month... I have a mate travelling to Durban on the 28th Sept. He will take the parts etc with him and deliver to the veneering guy... More to come..
 

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Southernboy

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Cheers buddy.
Yes, I felt I had to give the veneering guy every chance of doing a good job, and the curves and angles on those console parts might have provided him with a bit of a headache when it came to firmly clamping things together. By making the moulds, he has ample rigidity etc to really get a good squeeze and hopefully achieve a great bond. After that, his skills in applying the clear coating until it's a good thick glassy finish as per the OEM will be up to him. I do know a couple of really good automotive painters closer to home, so I may just ask him to leave it as bare wood / veneer and send it back up to me for finishing here.
I have time to decide before I send it off. There may be one other helping hand I can offer him. It's a product called Super-Soft 2 Veneer Softener.

https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Super-Soft-2-Veneer-Softener-Conditioner.html

The veneer I got from the USA is 0.7mm thick, but being a burl, it doesnt have a long grain - as per the pic I posted - that means it really needs to be pliable to handle the curves, and particularly the 10mm radius curve. I've read extensively on softening veneer, and initially was surprised to read that water is an absolute no no. Seems the veneer will buckle and even split using water. The fella from Thin wood and old tools swears by the Super-Soft 2 product, and seeing some videos online, it seems like the right stuff.
Problem is, the sellers in the USA, will not ship to a "freight forwarding" address, and they will not ship to South Africa.
I'll have to ask a mate in the UK if I can ship to him, and then get it couriered over once he has it in his hands... A long route, but sadly the only workable option.

Perhaps you could search the UK for a supplier - I can't find one online, but then maybe I'm not seeing...
If you do find a supplier of the stuff, please let me know contact info etc.. Cheers Barry.
 
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Southernboy

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BTW... What is the going price for a Mk 1 Ford Escourt in the UK... a " runner" but a good "project" car...
 

petecossie

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Quick look on Pistonheads - Cheapest £20k most expensive £59k!!!! These are RS models or replicas. There will be cheaper standard cars in classic mags I'm sure. Not than many around these days.
 

Southernboy

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Thanks Pete... I had an enquiry from another member to look for one here... They go for around £2000 here... in OEM condition.
 

Southernboy

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Thanks - I found them and ordered some of their stuff about 5 mins ago... :):):)
 

Geophys

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If he does a lot of veneering then he should not need the moulds as he would probably glue it all up in a vacuum bag. I do this quite often when doing inlay work.
 

Southernboy

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Yes, I agree. But to prep the veneer and have it bend without cracking etc, I figure he can soften it first, clamp the stuff in the moulds to dry, then apply glue and vacuum it...
 

Geophys

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I personally wouldn't, I would just use something like Supersoft 2 to wet the veneer and let it dry overnight, then glue and vacuum. The veneer softener makes the structure of the veneer plastic so that it will conform to the substrate in the vacuum. I bend up to 2.5mm thick burls this way without problem.
 

Southernboy

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Good insights thank you. Where do you get your Super Soft 2 from ??
 

mrscalex

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There’s an episode of Car SOS where veneer application is shown in some detail. They use a vacuum bag. Can’t remember which one but I watch them over and over (bit of a fan) so will let you know when I spot it again.
 

Geophys

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There’s an episode of Car SOS where veneer application is shown in some detail. They use a vacuum bag. Can’t remember which one but I watch them over and over (bit of a fan) so will let you know when I spot it again.
I think it was on one of the Range Rovers, possibly the one they painted white.
 

Southernboy

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Latest.... I have ordered some of the veneer softner, and hopefully will have it early next week.
Also, found a local guy who has the vacuum bag system and will do the bonding for me.
Lastly, I found a specialist Jaguar classic car restoration outfit with excellent credentials. I'll take the parts to them for clear coating..
I reckon around 2 weeks and the job should be done..
 

mrscalex

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Btw it was indeed the Range Rover episode. Hopefully you can track it down on youtube as it will be worth you watching.
 

Southernboy

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Finally the task is done !! The "Z3 Satin Blonde" is now a reality..
Now for the gear knob... I may opt for a polished aluminium knob if I can't find a good chunk of oak burl to turn one
to match the console.
I would like to thank tose that gave me useful tips and advice. I used the moulds I made to apply the new veneer.
They worked perfectly. The finishing was slow and careful work, but it has resulted in a really smooth polyurethane satin finish.
I imagine it will polish up a little glossier with time though, and probably "yellow" into a darker amber shade.
 

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