Rebody 250 California update

jaguartvr

Zorg Guru (I)
Joined
Jan 9, 2017
Points
95
INTERIOR

I have been a bit lazy and other projects seem to get in the way but I have been making steady progress on the interior.
Dashboard has been painted rather than being covered, this is much cheaper and much easier and having done both I think painted looks better. When the dash is covered it can look a bit thick.
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I have also covered the interior panels in vinyl rather than leather, this again I think looks better as the vinyl is thinner than leather so it is easier to get it to lay flat on the panels. It also doesn't get mouldy when the damp gets in. My SL lets in a small amount of water, you can tell which parts of the interior are leather as they go mouldy, the vinyl remains perfect.

The seat covers are leather all the rest vinyl. The seats are MGB, I have previously kept the BMW sides to the seat bases and attached them directly to the MGB seat frame but it is a bit too tight and they tend to break. This time I have fitted polypropylene textured sheet to the side and fitted the BMW electric seat switch, this frees up a few inches and makes everything much easier. The MGB seats are mounted to the original Z£ electric seat bases.
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The steering column uses the existing BMW column, this again makes the build much easier.
The door cards are still to be fitted as my windows are a "bit sticky" and need adjusting.
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The heater controls are the original BMW controls mounted behind the front bulkhead. I do have some alloy MGF knobs that will be fitted later that look much better than the plastic ones.
It is all quite straight forward but I have found that the interior takes longer than the bodywork.
I have a friend who has sown all the black vinyl together for me and I have just used some scrim foam and spray glue to fit it. It could be better but then again it hasn't cost £5k to do.
 
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t-tony

Zorg Expert (II)
Supporter
British Zeds
#ZedShed
Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Points
226
Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
Those MGB seats really look like they belong in that car.

Tony.
 

jaguartvr

Zorg Guru (I)
Joined
Jan 9, 2017
Points
95
Thanks, the MGB seats do work well and a cheap option.
The seats were £50, leather covers £375 and about £140 for new diaphragms and seat foams.
This will buy you a pair of new vinyl seats with fixed backrests so no matter what you do they will always be uncomfortable,
 

jaguartvr

Zorg Guru (I)
Joined
Jan 9, 2017
Points
95
FRONT CLAM

I've been working on the front end of the California. This is a modified version as I don't like the fact that the original kits were bonded on, there is no way you can replace the windscreen without cutting the front off, same with any work on the servo. Electrics, fuses, shocks and radiator would also be a major pain to work on so my version has been designed to make the front (and rear rear) section to be removable.
Under the front clam is a reinforcement panel that takes 2 "L" shaped brackets that bolt to the new front cross member, this supports the front.
The lower section of the front wing iscut off and overlaps the sill bu about 7mm, the sill is recessed to take the thickness of the wing. A bracket is glued to the bottom of the wing and bolted to the sill to hold it in place. This join will be covered by a 10mm stainless steel trim strip running the length of the sill.
You will also see that the bonnet hinges are mounted directly to the front clam, this makes it much easier to fit and align the bonnet. Originally the bonnet hinge mounts were fitted to the front slam panel, the front clam is then fitted and you then have to try and align the bonnet height to the hight of the clam, this is an absolute pig of a job and you will spend days trying to get it all to align.
Hopefully the phots will explain it better, more to follow
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This bracket is just glued on with some GRP paste, it will be covered with some mat an resin for a strong bond, the same as the bonnet hinge mounting brackets.
 
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jaguartvr

Zorg Guru (I)
Joined
Jan 9, 2017
Points
95
Photos showing the front side, it obviously has to be positioned correctly but that will be done with the door as both need adjusting. a 10mm stainless steel trim strip will be positioned at the top of the sill and run front to back which will hide the front seam. This means that removing just a few bolts will allow the whole front to be removed along with the bonnet. Couldn't resist proping the grill and grill surround in position, still need a lot of fettling to get the correct fit.
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