2006 Z4, E85 roof malfunction

[Bill Scherer]

I have a 2006 Z4 E85 and my convertible roof is stuck in the open position. I have tried all things recommended in the car's manual and in instructional videos that I have seen posted online. I pulled the red ring in the boot (trunk) and turned it 90 degrees. I pulled the string that is in the boot behind the seats. I pushed the upper button that is located on the panel in the passenger compartment behind and between the 2 seats. After doing those things, the roof did become disengaged from the latch that is located behind the 2 seats. The most that I was able to manually move the roof however, was perhaps an inch or two. There seems to be something else that will not allow the hinges to budge. I have also tried pushing the raise and lower switches on the console while the roof was disengaged from the latch. That didn't provide any help. When I pushed those switches I did hear the roof motor operating. It just didn't move anything.

Does anyone have any recommendations for diagnosing and fixing this problem? Also, why am I not able to do the emergency manual operation of the roof in order to close it?

Thank you for any help and advice that you can offer.

 

[colb]

It seems you have done all the right things to disengage the pump, with it unlocked there should be no pressure in the system so the roof will lift, maybe the red ring pull handle is not activating the bypass valve on the pump so there is still pressure in there. You are going to have to pull the motor and pump back into the boot to investigate that. How to with pictures here https://zroadster.org/threads/z4-roof-motor-relocation-to-boot.19256/
When its in the boot check out the valve the cable operates on and lube the valve and press it in and out so it moves freely, if you test it under powere dont forget the micro switch the shelf operates will need to be closed, wedge a small socket in there to close it otherwise the roof won't open or close. Having it in the boot will also allow you to check the oil level, it shouldn't be overfilled as it needs room for the oil to circulate from the rams. Once you get it working relocate it at the side inside the boot, best place for it and future trouble shooting.

 

[Bill Scherer]

Thank you Colb. I was fearing that might be the case. I looked at the link that you provided. What a job! Was the pump/motor able to be salvaged or did he have to get a new one?

I am also wondering if how I will be able to get the pump/motor into the boot with the attachment for the bypass valve still attached. Will that present a problem?

 

[colb]

No need to disconnect the release cable just unclip the cable run from the top of its run, biggest problem is getting the plastic pot that holds the motor and pump to come out of the well, its held in there by cable ties. I used a long bar forced inbetween its lid and body then using a pivot point in the boot levered it upwards so the ties broke. It then lifted up and out into the boot. Once in the boot you can cut the tape holding the lid on and pull the unit out to investigate whats going on. If you don't fancy having a go there are some guys over on the Z4 Forum who do this job for circa £130 depending if your motor is savable one in Bristol and one in Hampshire, another near Manchester. Probably they will post here when they spot your thread.

 

[Bill Scherer]

No need to disconnect the release cable just unclip the cable run from the top of its run, biggest problem is getting the plastic pot that holds the motor and pump to come out of the well, its held in there by cable ties. I used a long bar forced inbetween its lid and body then using a pivot point in the boot levered it upwards so the ties broke. It then lifted up and out into the boot. Once in the boot you can cut the tape holding the lid on and pull the unit out to investigate whats going on. If you don't fancy having a go there are some guys over on the Z4 Forum who do this job for circa £130 depending if your motor is savable one in Bristol and one in Hampshire, another near Manchester. Probably they will post here when they spot your thread.

Thanks again Colb. I am over here on Long Island, NY, USA. I will probably need to tackle this one myself. Working from home now due to the pandemic, so my car will have to sit in the garage (except when it's sunny out) until I find time to do the necessary surgery.

 

[colb]

With time on your hands i'm sure you can manage it didn't realise you were in USA, stay safe and good luck with the roof

 

[Bill Scherer]

With time on your hands i'm sure you can manage it didn't realise you were in USA, stay safe and good luck with the roof

I have another question about the pump/motor relocation. I read the instructional info on the link that you provided, but I didn't see any mention about the electrical connection to the pump/motor. Doesn't that have to be disconnected and then reconnected when the pump/motor is moved to the boot?

 

[gookah]

cables are long enough to pull through to the new location without disconnecting them

 

[Bill Scherer]

cables are long enough to pull through to the new location without disconnecting them

Thanks Gookah. I guess a lot of people have had this problem and are familiar with it. Thank you again.

Bill

 

[Bill Scherer]

Another question: Before I start this project, I must mention that as I sit in my driver's seat and push the button on my console to raise/lower the convertible top, I am able to hear the pump/motor running behind me. The red light on my console will not go off until I have pushed the top down button and allowed time for the pump/motor to cycle. Then the light goes off. All this happens while the top doesn't move. It remains stuck in the open position. If I can hear the pump/motor operating, do you think that my problem is with the location of the pump/motor? In other words, if my pump/motor is operating, maybe it isn't wet. Maybe there is another problem. Perhaps with the hydraulics. Also, I do have the problem that when I pull on the red ring and rotate it 90 degrees, it will not release the hydraulics and allow the top to be moved manually.

 

[t-tony]

That would suggest the valve in the pump may be seized totally or partially. Only be able to tell with pump moved out of side panel. If you’re moving it for any reason place it in the boot.

Tony.

 

[Bill Scherer]

That would suggest the valve in the pump may be seized totally or partially. Only be able to tell with pump moved out of side panel. If you’re moving it for any reason place it in the boot.

Tony.

Hi Tony,

Any possibility that a hydraulic line may be compromised somehow and perhaps that would be causing the malfunction? If so, would I still need to move the pump out of the side panel to investigate that?

 

[colb]

The only way you will find out if a line is at fault is to get the unit out and pulled back into the boot. Once in there you can check the oil level in the resevoir. Should be about half full as you look at it. If its low them possibility of a leak from a line or at a joint at the rams that would need further investigation. Really sounds like the manual release valve is sticking, once its pulled back into the boot you can check that first and free it off if it is indeed sticking, lube it and push it in and out a few times to free it offn then check the operation of the red pull ring and cable that operates it.

 

[Bill Scherer]

I live in New York, USA and my Z4 has the driver's seat and steering wheel on the left hand side of the car. Where will the pump/motor for the convertible top be located in MY car? Also, when the pump/motor gets relocated to the boot (trunk) where will the round, red release pull be located?

 

[t-tony]

I live in New York, USA and my Z4 has the driver's seat and steering wheel on the left hand side of the car. Where will the pump/motor for the convertible top be located in MY car? Also, when the pump/motor gets relocated to the boot (trunk) where will the round, red release pull be located?

Hello Bill, I live in the UK and my car is RHD. As far as I'm aware the pump for the roof mechanism is located in the same location regardless of where the steering wheel is situated. I can take some pictures of my relocated pump tomorrow (later today) and show you if it will help. The RED release ring will not be affected by the pump relocation, it stays exactly where it is.

Tony.

 

[Bill Scherer]

So, the pump should be on the left hand side, correct?

 

[colb]

Here is parts diagram from oem site, pump on left hand side, red ring remains in same place when the motor is relocated into boot, you dont need to disconnect it at the ring pull end to do this.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BT32-EUR-07-2003-E85-BMW-Z4_25i&diagId=54_0313

 

[Bill Scherer]

That's much appreciated! Thank you.

 

[Bill Scherer]

Hi Colb,

Covid made me put this project on hold. I have just started to tackle it and I have run into a problem. My roof is stuck down in the open convertible position. I have tried pulling and turning the red ring, but there is still too much resistance and I am unable to raise it into the closed door position. I have also cycled the latch that secures the roof when it is in the open convertible position so that it is disengaged. At best i am able to lift the roof a few inches. There is something that is still providing too much resistance. Hydraulics maybe? What can I do? I appreciate greatly any advice you can offer.

Thanks,
Bill

 

[t-tony]

Does the light on the switch light up when you operate the switch Bill? Can you hear anything at all from the motor (pump)?

Tony.