1999 Z3 2.8 winter project

D0nni

Zorg Legend
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jun 24, 2020
Points
65
Location
N.Ireland
Model of Z
2.8
Hi all.

New member thought I'd put a thread up of my project I'm going to be doing over winter months.

Purchased 1999 z3 2.8 from England (N.Ireland) one we gamble for 1800 knowing it was coming with issues but was good money and everything seemed fair condition so took a punt.

The good:
115k
Leather interior
Good condition roof and rear window
Roll bars and wind deflecters
Heated seats (to my surprise working)
3 previous owners. 2nd owner for 17years
After market stereo
Good clutch, gearbox, no hiccups etc from engine on the 80 mile trip home from transporters yard.

The bad:
Fuel pipe was corroded and leaking (quick repair with rubber fuel tube and jubilee clips resolved temporarily for now)
The inner sills are missing all the jacking points (still solid and holds cars weight thankfully) but shows inner sill rust which needs looked at, repaired and new jack points welded and possible other welding required.
Driver side outer sill is showing rust bubbles and has been isopon repaired so it's to be replaced.
Drivers side wing is bubbling so also replacement required.
Passenger door bubbling at window (have a replacement lined up)
Stone clippings on paint needing patched up
ASC button not lighting on key turn (possible bulb replacement(any advice?)
Electric roof not working (any advice?)

Any advice on rust treatment would be greatly appreciated as winter is going to be spent mainly treating and repairing all the rust issues around the sills etc. Aware I need to bring back to bare metal as well as possible but in regards to neutralizing the rust and internally etc advice would be much welcome

Added some photos

received_541798769822786.jpeg received_171916200923387.jpeg received_242578823702676.jpeg received_660441924811283.jpeg received_2775250392584032.jpeg IMG-20200622-WA0004.jpeg
 

Althulas

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M Roadster
Rust issues better sorted now if your working outside less exposure of bare metal to moisture. The inner sills are quite thick metal so hopefully you can get away with a good clean up and treatment. The outers are reasonably priced new, very hard to find decent secondhand ones. The doors are easily to come by secondhand just need to bide your time to find one in the matching colour. wing panels etc are ok to find from breakers On here or eBay.

Electric roof check the fuses, brake switch and micro switch in the roof. Operation requires handbrake on and brake pedal depressed and the front of the roof lifting up to engaged micro switch found on left hand rail about midish way of passenger window. Can your hear the motor engaging? On the pump in left hand side of boot behind trim panel there is a screw that you can undo to manually operate the roof. As for dsc I don’t have that feature so can’t help there. Good luck with your project. Welcome to the forum.
 

Shelly

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Z4 2.0 20i M Sport sDrive
Good luck with your project :)
Keep the photos coming :)
 

D0nni

Zorg Legend
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jun 24, 2020
Points
65
Location
N.Ireland
Model of Z
2.8
So I've done some troubleshooting regarding the ASC button not working as it's been niggling at me since it's fairly important to have working(!)

Some detective work has ascertained:
Button wires connected which lead too the instrument cluster lights. These had been removed and also taped over.

IMG-20200627-WA0002.jpeg IMG-20200627-WA0008.jpeg

Swapped some other bulbs about which I knew worked as a test and ta-da the confirmation.

IMG-20200627-WA0010.jpeg

So now I've ordered the INPA software and cable from bcables to further diagnose the issue.

My generic code reader is throwing a p0500 code "Vehicle speed sensor A" which I've found is a generic fault code and not specific to a sensor in particular.

20200627_172213.jpg

Given the level of cover up I'm going to assume it's the ABS/ASC module throwing the issue rather than a sensor but who knows.

I'm sure I saw a step by step on fixing the soldering points within this module. I'm fairly handy at soldering so if someone has a link it would be much obliged *tip hat*

Will update as I go.
 

Newtricks

Dedicated Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Points
32
Location
York, North Yorkshire
Model of Z
Z3 2.8 Convertible
Hi there, I’m new to a Z3 too, and have also started a restoration. I think they’re pretty good from a bodywork perspective as a lot of panels simply unbolt. In terms of rust removal, here’s my personal view (based on bitter experience!) - remove the rust from the area (if you can remove the panel, so much the better) until you get to bare metal (I find 80 grit best (caveat - I use a DA sander)). On a paint course I did, they recommend only etch primer onto the bare metal - I asked about rust converter - they didn’t see any major benefit. You will need to put a thin layer of filler (and it does make the final paint application easier and a better finish). When the filler is smooth (240 or 320 grit), if you see any pin holes, 1k stopper is good for filling them (but smooth down again with 240 or 320 grit carefully). Prime, paint and lacquer as usual.

Good luck with your project, and welcome to the forum - there’s loads of helpful info and advice (Which I’ve needed).

regards

Nick
 

D0nni

Zorg Legend
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British Zeds
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Jun 24, 2020
Points
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Location
N.Ireland
Model of Z
2.8
Cheers Nick,

Will be the actual inner sills I'll be bringing back to bare metal and along the wheel arches etc and rust prevention coating them all. Will be quite an undertaking but will have to bin the outer sills prob and sort the inner ones before the bank card gets a hit on replacing the sills and panels.

Will be doing any mechanical problems first before diving into the body work but the outer sills will be coming off just to see what I'm going to be dealing with. The isopon on the driverside has me concerned a bit but its sealed for now so will do until shes garaged for winter. I'm only driving dry days so not gonna get any water while I have her bar the wash I gave her last week.

Andrew
 

Jjim

Zorg Guru (IV)
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Points
168
Location
Mansfield
Model of Z
1.9 Roadster
So I've done some troubleshooting regarding the ASC button not working as it's been niggling at me since it's fairly important to have working(!)

Some detective work has ascertained:
Button wires connected which lead too the instrument cluster lights. These had been removed and also taped over.

View attachment 147797 View attachment 147799

Swapped some other bulbs about which I knew worked as a test and ta-da the confirmation.

View attachment 147801

So now I've ordered the INPA software and cable from bcables to further diagnose the issue.

My generic code reader is throwing a p0500 code "Vehicle speed sensor A" which I've found is a generic fault code and not specific to a sensor in particular.

View attachment 147803

Given the level of cover up I'm going to assume it's the ABS/ASC module throwing the issue rather than a sensor but who knows.

I'm sure I saw a step by step on fixing the soldering points within this module. I'm fairly handy at soldering so if someone has a link it would be much obliged *tip hat*

Will update as I go.
I’ve soldered the usual issue in the module - 2 dry solder joints. See link below.

https://zroadster.org/threads/jims-z3-journey.19286/page-14
Post 264

Worked for me.
 

Jjim

Zorg Guru (IV)
British Zeds
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Points
168
Location
Mansfield
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1.9 Roadster
That was the very thing I was looking for. I'll have a check on the error reports but I'm going to guess given the lengths he went too it's not a simple sensor fix. Lol
Hopefully it’s just some dry joints. As most people will avoid changing the ABS module.
You might also need to change a wheel speed sensor once the module has been fixed. But the correct code should show up once the module has been fixed
 

D0nni

Zorg Legend
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jun 24, 2020
Points
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Location
N.Ireland
Model of Z
2.8
Hopefully it’s just some dry joints. As most people will avoid changing the ABS module.
You might also need to change a wheel speed sensor once the module has been fixed. But the correct code should show up once the module has been fixed
Hopefully is just that issue.

Will know more come next week once the cable and diagnostic software comes. Will update. Have some torx socket coming to help with removal. Doesnt see too awkward worked at was having a look this afternoon.

Failing that least I'll have it off for part number if does need replaced and recoded.
 

D0nni

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Ok so the results are in from the INPA error reports.

Not as bad as i was originally fearing thankfully.

ASCABS.JPG
engine1.JPG

Anyone any experience with these errors?

Im guessing I may need a new rear right wheel sensor and to look at either replacing or repairing the ABS/ASC module. With regards to the Lambda would i be right in saying this is the sensor behind the CAT?

As for the 214 error ive not a clue. Could this potentially be repaired with the ABS/ASC repairs?

All in all thought I was pleasantly surprised at the few errors.
 

D0nni

Zorg Legend
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British Zeds
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Points
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Location
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cleaned the rear ABS sensor and still same error. funny it looks to be working ok in the live data? Would it be worth buying a replacement or fixing at the module first?
 

D0nni

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Points
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Thought I'd check the abs module cause have that error throwing anyway. Thought may as well chance it and see. So I've opened the module and right enough the soldering points werent in great nick.

IMG-20200704-WA0014.jpeg IMG-20200704-WA0016.jpeg


Gave them a we top up of solder and sealed it back it. Laptop and cables are in work so cant clear the errors with INPA software but going to put it together and take it for a quick run to see how we get on. Still have a rear right sensor coming on Monday to replace that so fingers crossed that will be the ABS/ASC and speed sensor errors sorted. Just leaving the lambda sensor. Then its enjoy and deal with the body work over winter.
 

Stevo7682

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Make sure you seal the unit properly as any water ingress will not be long in corroding the inner parts of the module.
Stephen.
 

D0nni

Zorg Legend
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British Zeds
Joined
Jun 24, 2020
Points
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Location
N.Ireland
Model of Z
2.8
Make sure you seal the unit properly as any water ingress will not be long in corroding the inner parts of the module.
Stephen.
Cheers stephen,

Epoxy sealed it for strength and black silicon for waterproofing. Hopefully clear a few of those errors out.

Be tomorrow evening before I know anymore. Left laptop in work so cant clear codes and have a replacement sensor coming so fitting it before clearing them.

Fingers crossed
 

D0nni

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British Zeds
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Points
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Quick update as got the laptop onto car soon as I got home. Small victory. The soldering seems to have worked for my 113 pump error. Sensor didnt arrive today but hopefully come tomorrow and we will have functioning ABS/ASC.

Will be a good win *touchwood*

IMG-20200706-WA0007.jpeg
 

D0nni

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Good news certainly a step in the right direction :thumbsup::thumbsup:.
Cheers stevo,

Hoping once I get the sensor in it will clear the signal speed error from the engine aswell then that just leaves cleaning/replacing the lambda sensor then its enjoy for a month or so before sorning her for the winter and get the body repair and rust treatment etc done for next spring/summer. Keep me busy for a few months. Prob few other parts to replace while have her out of action. Wishbones, bushes, break discs and pads etc.
 

D0nni

Zorg Legend
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jun 24, 2020
Points
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Location
N.Ireland
Model of Z
2.8
Hopefully it’s just some dry joints. As most people will avoid changing the ABS module.
You might also need to change a wheel speed sensor once the module has been fixed. But the correct code should show up once the module has been fixed
Soldered the points resolved the module error so cheers for the tip
 

D0nni

Zorg Legend
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jun 24, 2020
Points
65
Location
N.Ireland
Model of Z
2.8
Rust issues better sorted now if your working outside less exposure of bare metal to moisture. The inner sills are quite thick metal so hopefully you can get away with a good clean up and treatment. The outers are reasonably priced new, very hard to find decent secondhand ones. The doors are easily to come by secondhand just need to bide your time to find one in the matching colour. wing panels etc are ok to find from breakers On here or eBay.

Electric roof check the fuses, brake switch and micro switch in the roof. Operation requires handbrake on and brake pedal depressed and the front of the roof lifting up to engaged micro switch found on left hand rail about midish way of passenger window. Can your hear the motor engaging? On the pump in left hand side of boot behind trim panel there is a screw that you can undo to manually operate the roof. As for dsc I don’t have that feature so can’t help there. Good luck with your project. Welcome to the forum.
Decided to check the roof tonight while wife watches soaps. Started with the fuse. Was ok. Didnt know how to use the roof so followed your steps. Heard the motor spinning so checked the T key. Tightened it up and bingo straight away working so cheers Althulas. Another we win for today. Nearly ready for the body work etc. Shame my pocket isnt ready otherwise I'd be balls deep into the sills, wings, wingmirrors etc already
 
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