Last summer I had to install a new Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder on my 1996 Z3 1.9L. While I was driving he car, I was no longer able to shift gears. The clutch didn't slip while driving in gear which might have indicated a worn out clutch plate or defective pressure plate, but I could not SHIFT gears. The immediate problem this imposes on the driver is that as long as the motor is running, the car is moving. To stop the car, you must brake to stall the motor or turn off the ignition key. After the car was stopped, you could then shift into neutral which would allow the car to freewheel. In order to get home, I had to place the car into first gear and start the car in that gear. Since it's engaged, the starter along with starting the motor, begins to move the car itself. Being less that a mile from home, I was able to drive in first gear to my house and carefully pull into the driveway and break while turning off the ignition before I hit my other Z in front of me. Very tricky.
When considering doing the work myself, I first studied a youtube video on the proceedure. It was done by a professional mechanic. The car he worked on was on a lift which raised it about waist high so he could lean into the car to work.
I should tell you first off that at the end of this video of the pro mechanic doing this work, he states: "I never want to do that again!!!!!!" This was my exact feeling after completing the same task on my car. I had to work outside on my driveway with the car up on ramps. In retrospect, I think I would have been better off had I removed the driver's seat and worked on my back in the car looking up at the parts to be replaced.
My advice to you is: "DON'T DO THIS JOB!!!!! IF YOU CAN AFFORD TO PAY SOMEONE TO DO IT, DO SO. IF YOU CAN'T AFFORD TO PAY SOMEONE GO OUT AND SELL NEWSPAPERS ON THE CORNER UNTIL YOU MAKE ENOUGH MONEY TO PAY SOMEONE."
That being said, here is the video of my attempt. I should tell you first that the video only comprises about 40% of what actually happened. Initially, I hadn't purchased a slave cylinder that was made ot the same materials as the original. The push rod of the slave cylinder is mounted into the body of the cylinder with a hard rubber grommet. You must purchase one like this and not one that has what seems to be a rubber boot. The reason for this is that the harder rubber grommet holds the push rod more securely not allowing the rod to flex to one side but keeps it centered and straight as it protrudes from the body of the slave cylinder. The reason this is important is that when trying to insert the slave cylinder into the housing of the transmission, it is better able to contact the lever of the throw out bearing it must pust against. If this push rod doesn't stay stiff but moves slightly out of position while inserting the slave cylinder into the bell housing, the pust rod can, without you realizing it, position itself to the side of the throwout bearing lever. What happens then is that you bolt the slave cylinder in place and when you start to pump the clutch pedal, the slave cylinder pust rod is not pushing against anything and is forced completely out ot the slave cylinder. You can't get it back into place properly and must return it and get another one. If the push rod isn't ejected completely, the rubber boot blows up like a baloon with hydrolic fluid and again, you can never get it back to its original position so out to the store for another one. I did this twice, It took 2 times for me to realize the push rod wasn't capable of contacting the throw out bearing lever.
The reverse bleeding of the system was from a video by a BMW shop and I thought it would work. It didn't seem to get the job done. The clutch had no power to it. I called a BMW mechanic whose name had been given to me. He has over 30 years experience. I did the proceedure that I learned from the BMW mechanic twice. The first time, I could shift the gears without the engine running, but not that well while driving. The second time around, I was careful to follow the proceedure more diligently. The slave cylinder is attached to the fluid supply line. To start with, you must loosen tne connection allowing hydrolic fluid to flow. At first it comes out in drops. After a while, it flows in a steady stream. This is important to allow this to happen exactly this way. After there is a steady stream, tighten the supply line connection. I wondered if this was all I needed to do instead or trying to reverse bleed the system or bench bleed the slave cylinder. If I were to do this all over again, I think that I would just attach the supply line and let it drip first and they reach a steady flow before tightening the connection.
The mechanic I talked to told me that the clutch sitll wouldn't feel completely right until I drove the car a few miles and he was right.
There were so many clips to this film that between cutting out the ones I didn't need, and cutting out all the bad language, of which there was an ample amount, I'm still not sure it's all in the proper order.
My final statement on all this is that I'll never do this again.....................Frankie
View: https://youtu.be/sYyYrAYbp2k
When considering doing the work myself, I first studied a youtube video on the proceedure. It was done by a professional mechanic. The car he worked on was on a lift which raised it about waist high so he could lean into the car to work.
I should tell you first off that at the end of this video of the pro mechanic doing this work, he states: "I never want to do that again!!!!!!" This was my exact feeling after completing the same task on my car. I had to work outside on my driveway with the car up on ramps. In retrospect, I think I would have been better off had I removed the driver's seat and worked on my back in the car looking up at the parts to be replaced.
My advice to you is: "DON'T DO THIS JOB!!!!! IF YOU CAN AFFORD TO PAY SOMEONE TO DO IT, DO SO. IF YOU CAN'T AFFORD TO PAY SOMEONE GO OUT AND SELL NEWSPAPERS ON THE CORNER UNTIL YOU MAKE ENOUGH MONEY TO PAY SOMEONE."
That being said, here is the video of my attempt. I should tell you first that the video only comprises about 40% of what actually happened. Initially, I hadn't purchased a slave cylinder that was made ot the same materials as the original. The push rod of the slave cylinder is mounted into the body of the cylinder with a hard rubber grommet. You must purchase one like this and not one that has what seems to be a rubber boot. The reason for this is that the harder rubber grommet holds the push rod more securely not allowing the rod to flex to one side but keeps it centered and straight as it protrudes from the body of the slave cylinder. The reason this is important is that when trying to insert the slave cylinder into the housing of the transmission, it is better able to contact the lever of the throw out bearing it must pust against. If this push rod doesn't stay stiff but moves slightly out of position while inserting the slave cylinder into the bell housing, the pust rod can, without you realizing it, position itself to the side of the throwout bearing lever. What happens then is that you bolt the slave cylinder in place and when you start to pump the clutch pedal, the slave cylinder pust rod is not pushing against anything and is forced completely out ot the slave cylinder. You can't get it back into place properly and must return it and get another one. If the push rod isn't ejected completely, the rubber boot blows up like a baloon with hydrolic fluid and again, you can never get it back to its original position so out to the store for another one. I did this twice, It took 2 times for me to realize the push rod wasn't capable of contacting the throw out bearing lever.
The reverse bleeding of the system was from a video by a BMW shop and I thought it would work. It didn't seem to get the job done. The clutch had no power to it. I called a BMW mechanic whose name had been given to me. He has over 30 years experience. I did the proceedure that I learned from the BMW mechanic twice. The first time, I could shift the gears without the engine running, but not that well while driving. The second time around, I was careful to follow the proceedure more diligently. The slave cylinder is attached to the fluid supply line. To start with, you must loosen tne connection allowing hydrolic fluid to flow. At first it comes out in drops. After a while, it flows in a steady stream. This is important to allow this to happen exactly this way. After there is a steady stream, tighten the supply line connection. I wondered if this was all I needed to do instead or trying to reverse bleed the system or bench bleed the slave cylinder. If I were to do this all over again, I think that I would just attach the supply line and let it drip first and they reach a steady flow before tightening the connection.
The mechanic I talked to told me that the clutch sitll wouldn't feel completely right until I drove the car a few miles and he was right.
There were so many clips to this film that between cutting out the ones I didn't need, and cutting out all the bad language, of which there was an ample amount, I'm still not sure it's all in the proper order.
My final statement on all this is that I'll never do this again.....................Frankie
