#ZedShed Project Dino D

GazHyde

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The latest car to arrive at Dr. Lees garage belongs to @Dino D. It has a variety of issues needing looking at, including setting the suspension up correctly. It has coilovers on the front and lowering springs on the back.

Before anything gets tweaked its up on the axle stands & wheels off for the obligatory inspection.

Wheels off, and mahoosive wheels they are too...
2015-02-12 12.18.30.jpg


Don't fancy being the one to clean them, even though they are rather nice :joyful:
2015-02-12 12.18.34.jpg

Rear suspension setup. Not much spring in those springs. Not sure how much lower these actually are than standard, but pretty low by the look of them!
2015-02-12 12.19.47.jpg


Everything looks pretty much the same as every other Z3 we've had in the garage - a bit tired looking! Yellow stuff pads all round as well.
2015-02-12 12.19.25.jpg


Front suspension with coilovers (slight issue with this one visible to the eye!)
2015-02-12 12.20.44.jpg


The differential bush can't seem to wait to come out, and looks to be making a bid for freedom already...
2015-02-12 12.29.23.jpg


Drop links are starting to crack...
2015-02-12 12.29.43.jpg


After our look over it became pretty clear it needs the rear sub frame dropping and a full refresh on the rubber components therein. Once the rear wheel arch liners were removed it was clear to see that the rear beam bushes had failed already. The video below shows the state of the beam bushes and the differential bush in better detail.

View: http://youtu.be/q_KWZk4TLJw


You've seen the process we are about to show you several times before in the other progress threads, but mainly for Dino's benefit here they are again!

First off the car is the spare wheel and spare wheel carrier. Spare wheel has seen better days...
2015-02-12 12.36.09.jpg

2015-02-12 12.36.16.jpg


Off with the tasty sounding Supersprint exhaust. The great thing about the 2.8 exhausts is they are joined midway down the underside of the car, so we don't have to remove the whole thing. It may need a quick go over with some metal polish :bag:
2015-02-12 13.09.04.jpg


I'll skip over the things we disconnected and unplugged, but after about 3 hours we got to this stage (it would have taken less but we had to pop out for a bacon buttie!).
2015-02-12 15.58.57.jpg


2015-02-12 15.59.06.jpg

2015-02-12 15.59.15.jpg


After a rather awkward lift it was on the work bench. Not sure why this one seemed to weigh heavier than the other subframes, but it almost broke both of us (particularly those who got their hand trapped in the process!).
2015-02-12 16.11.31.jpg


With it on the bench we removed the anti roll bar and separated the swing arms from the ream beam. Having made such good progress we took a little drive out to drop the rear beam and PowerFlex beam bushes at the local garage for removal and fitting.

Next stage will most likely be Saturday when we will have collected the reworked beam and collected pile of parts from GSF. We now have a white board up in the garage so we can list things out, I forgot to take a picture of exactly what is going to be ordered. It's pretty much everything except springs and shocks. I'll update this thread later with a list when I get chance.
 

Brian4

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You certainly are well practiced at it now both of you. Should be back to its potential soon.
 

Mint

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Great to see another Zed being brought up to scratch, I'm enjoying these threads.:)
 

Nifty Fifty

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Gents, I enjoy watching these threads but as a non techie or mechanic can I ask if it's possible for Lee & Gary to point out where exactly on the rear suspension / sub frame the exact locations of each bush are and what they are called and what ones are replaceable especially the ones that have to be pressed out. Something similar to the front end could also be educational.

Just a thought as it may help other members especially the f***wits like me!
Would not be offended if it's not possible.
 

GazHyde

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Brian H

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Great work again guys, I'm not too sure about the rear spring at up? I have seen the adjusters both at the bottom and the top of the spring and think the bottom is the place they should be with the rubber stopper at the top. Thoughts?
 

Dino D

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It's not tired, just works hard this Zed does!!

Well that goes some way to explaining various clunks and a lively rear end...

The rust on the springs - is that an issue or just cosmetic?
They only been in the car for 30k miles...

On another note who is wearing shorts in this weather??!
 

t-tony

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My guess is Lee is the brave man. My springs used to be yellow but now are in a similar condition as yours Dino, it's just cosmetic but I would like to make the look better but I'm not too sure on the best product to coat them with.

Tony.
 

Nifty Fifty

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Gary, what you have put together is brilliant and now when following your repair sessions at Dr Lee's workshop it now becomes a lot clearer:)
Be nice see an after shot with all new shining bushes.

Likewise your comment about the front end would also be interesting and let's hope a front end gets booked into Lee soon! I'm like you I know my front shocks will require replacing in the spring as one is starting to mist, I'm going to see what comes out of the MOT in May before I change them as few other bits may crop up as they always do.

Nice to see Lee keeping up appearances in shorts at minus -1 or his man cave is at a cosy +20=))
 

g8jka

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Great work again guys, I'm not too sure about the rear spring at up? I have seen the adjusters both at the bottom and the top of the spring and think the bottom is the place they should be with the rubber stopper at the top. Thoughts?
My adjusters are also at the top, as if they are fitted at the bottom they are not as easy (if at all) to adjust. I have seen them fitted both top and bottom though. I have a rubber pad top and bottom as well from what I remember. Do these rubber pads need to be in place as if I remove both or just one it would allow me to go slightly lower as my springs are at the lowest setting.

Nice work guys by the way, these threads are great.
 

GazHyde

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It's not tired, just works hard this Zed does!!
I don't mean that they are actually tired, just that all Zeds look this way when they are actually used in anger. Most of it is just surface dirt and corrosion which makes them look worse than they are. Everything not replaced will get a quick going over to try and make it look shinier than it currently is. Then it will quickly go back to looking the same condition :D
 

Lee

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All these suspension components still work correctly, they have lots of surface corrosion which can be easily cleaned. The really bad stuff I will grit blast (well not me personally someone at my work will) The adjusters can be at either orientation some people remove the rubber pads for extra lowering.

First order:

Handbrake cables
Drop links
Arm bushes
Brembo rear Discs.

Total £95

Perks of trade accounts.

Things left to order so far, EBC yellow stuff pads, and power flex diff bush.

Thats the rear end complete.

I suspect somthing very wrong at the front end becuase when you steer you twist and springs closly followed by a loud twang as the spring resets. First thoughts spacer/bearing between coilovers and topmounts (Adjustable mounts) We'll see once I have the back end back together. One step at a time.

Lee
 

Dino D

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Probably a good time to list the suspension mods so you know what's been done/changed and for everyone else who's thinking of suspension bits:

SUSPENSION: E-Tech front strut bar, FK Silverline Coilover Plus suspension (TUV approved, stainless steel adjustment thread so never rust, 30% upgraded - so very similar to BMW Sports suspension and very compliant in every day driving), front camber adjustable top mounts, BMW OEM M3 front strut reinforcement plates, Meyle Heavy Duty rear top mounts, Meyle Heavy Duty control arms, BMW OEM shock reinforcement plates rear, Powerflex polybush kit, new sway bar/drop links and tie rods.

BRAKES: EBC Yellow Stuff brake pads (front and rear) coupled with Brembo High Carbon brake discs all round with Goodridge braided stainless steel brake lines

WHEELS AND TYRES: 18" Staggered Beyern Multi (FRONT 18x8.5 and REAR 18x9.5) with Nexen N8000 XL all round (FRONT 225/40/18 and REAR 255/35/18)

This was done by Pangsterz3 whom I bought it from in late 2011 (and about 30k miles younger, now on 113k miles).

The rear seems to have settled a bit lower over time, I'll dig out some pics from when it first done but I'm pretty certain it's gotten lower.
I'm thinking to raise it about 20mm at the back and 10mm in the front. I'd like balance between looks and clearance. Once the wallet recovers I'd like to get on the cosmetics and do something with the front (hamman replica which lowers the chin quite a bit...)

After all this it needs to go for corner weighting which I'm told is the proper way to up coil overs.
This was all done when I bought it but time to get it redone for sure.

Looking forward to driving it again when it's all done!
 
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Dino D

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I don't mean that they are actually tired, just that all Zeds look this way when they are actually used in anger. Most of it is just surface dirt and corrosion which makes them look worse than they are. Everything not replaced will get a quick going over to try and make it look shinier than it currently is. Then it will quickly go back to looking the same condition :D
No worries Gaz, I know what you mean!
It does look rather scary seeing it like this, looks like a pile of rusty bits. On the other hand 113k miles in UK will be tough on any thing.

I'm a bit disappointed that the springs look that way after 30k miles.
They are FK Silverlines which seem to have a good reputation from people I've spoken with even in Motorsport.
Just think they should coat them better to prevent them rusting too early on, especially as it's a European manufacturer...
 

t-tony

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Big problem is a coating which will stand up the constant flexing, is there one?

Tony.
 

Dino D

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Plastidip?
Besides have you seen those springs, they barely flex!

Just had a snapped spring (and big bill) on our Galaxy because the spring got rusty...
 

Jack Ratt

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